Do you carry a spare tire?

[kyle4501]

I disagree with the the dry torque method being the most accurate and consistent way to torque a bolt ,

To be a little more clear, we used strain gauges & load cells to measure the resulting stud tension & clamping force to verify dry torque on CLEAN, DRY THREADS is more consistent -  However, if the threads aren't clean & dry, all bets are off.

If you are going to use lube, you really need to understand what you are doing - otherwise, you may end up converting good parts into junk.

I do believe hub piloted wheels are more consistent & less sensitive to lubrication issues than stud piloted.

From the Alcoa service manual --
Stud Located, Ball Seat Mounting System
It is recommended to torque to between 450 and 500 foot-pounds. If lubricated with motor oil,
torque should be between 350 and 400 foot-pounds. Note: when dualing steel wheels with Alcoa
aluminum wheels, follow the steel wheel manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the proper
torque and use of thread lubricants to mount the wheel.
WARNING Application of lubricant to the ball seats can cause excessive torque.
Over torque can stretch studs, causing them to fail.
Overtorquing can lead to wheel disengagement, causing serious injury or death.
Do not allow oil to contact ball seats or mounting surfaces of the wheel, hub or
drum. Do not use aerosol cans for lubrication of stud threads.

[DoubleEagle]

Walter I saw a drum at Graingers it was only $17,750.00 plus tax 

Yikes! It was much cheaper 32 years ago, but we still thinned it with gear oil to make it go farther.

[chessie4905]

I have this for applications I don't want the aluminum neverseize for. I also have a copper type neverseize for some uses also. Once the regular lum is used up I'll use the ss.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-antiseize-lubricants/=1ah8u67

The ss type is definitely less messy,  less smeary.

[luvrbus]

Man those prices are extreme for never seize I pay less than 30 bucks for a 1 lb can from a local welding shop for any type   

[chessie4905]

I'd imagine most buy theirs from NAPA or another auto parts store.

[brmax]

What I remember most about Never Sieze in using it through my career is this perfect example: I havent used any in a month or touch the container, But after reading the many great post I now need a paper towell!
Now honestly does this sound familar   Lol

Good day
Floyd

[Jim Eh.]

Nowhere it torque more critical than building an aluminum engine. Neverseize on fastner threads is an absolute must!

As far as stud piloted wheel nuts/studs go...personally after removal I give the threads a coating of diesel fuel for awhile then wire brush them. It leaves just enough film to give an accurate torque, is less messy, readily available, and cheap. I do put a drop of oil on a hub piloted nut washer and give it a turn or two to work it in but usually nothing on the threads.

[Scott & Heather]

Poor Gary, he tried to correct course but to no avail. This talk about spare tires and torque specs, what exactly even is torque? Is it the clamping Force? If so, I don’t see how that changes with lube, ft lbs are ft lbs so if you are using a torque wrench to tighten, then lube or no lube doesn’t affect that. If you’re spinning them on with an impact and then torquing down, then don’t spin them on tight at all. Just enough to seat them a little. There’s no way I wouldn’t use anti seize on any of my studs truck or Bus. The stuff is awesome and keeps things from seizing up and causing more problems. I’m in the “put it on” camp. And if you have to change a spare tire on the road, you’ll be really glad you used it. How’s that for keeping it on track gary? 👍🏽


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[Beluga Bus]

When using a torque wrench, some of the torque applied stretches the bolt, and some torque goes to overcoming the high level of friction of the treads between the nut and bolt, the bolt face and wheel also contribute to the friction. Now apply lube and the torque to overcome the friction is less, and more torque goes to stretching the bolt. It is the tension in the strechted bolt that applies the clamping force, not the torque of the nut.

Matt

[Utahclaimjumper]

 Right on Matt. >>>Dan

[Geoff]

Well, if this thread did anything, it got me to buy a new spare tire.  I removed the 15+ year old spare, and mounted the 9 year old spare using my truck tire tools.  Took the old tire to the County tire disposal site and it cost me $8 to dump the tire.  Michelin dealer wanted $50ea to dispose my old tires when I bought new ones a couple of years back.

[luvrbus]

You guys ever notice the inside dual with the smaller studs the nut torques the same with a outer nut torquing the same and then the same amount as a front wheel with the larger stud

[Geoff]

You guys ever notice the inside dual with the smaller studs the nut torques the same with a outer nut torquing the same and then the same amount as a front wheel with the larger stud

Yes, I have a impact socket that does it all using my 3/4" CP air gun.  I hate to remove wheels that we're put on with a 1" air gun.  Torque wrench?

[Scott & Heather]

Btw, I have changed my own tires before on the coach. Two summers ago. I bought new tires cheap at a truck tire place and brought them to my coach and actually pulled wheels, deflated the tires, popped the old tires off and the new ones on using a lot of tire “soap” the lube in the 5 gal pail. Had to lube the daylights out of the rim and tire and use huge tire irons and threw the tire while leveraging it off the rim. It was in Texas and it was 95°F and frankly I was so sore afterwards and hated the process so much, I vowed to always pay to have it done from then on. So far, I’ve lived up to my vow. Take note of that last photo.i borrowed his tools and his heft to make this happen. I do think everyone should do it once to appreciate how much work it is.


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[John316]

I have never carried a spare and I never needed one but with the heavy 45 ft bus I am considering carrying one 

Clifford. You probably know this already. But there was a fully mounted spare behind the front bumper.