BCM Community
Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: robertglines1 on September 22, 2011, 04:30:28 PM
-
I have both. The engine I have came out of a road tractor . 12Volt. I also have a 24 volt. Can you think of a good reason to use the 24 volt starter? The batteries are located less than 18 inches from the starter. I live in SW Indiana and don't plan on the frozen tundra experience. Bob
-
I think it would matter how you wired your chassis battery bank. 24 volts will require a smaller gauge cable.
I wouldn't build a coach that can't tolerate cold weather. What happens if for some emergency or something you want to take the coach to a cold area in the winter?
-
I don't know the Prevost electrical. Is it 12 or 24V? If 12V then a 12V starter. If 24V then a 24V starter. Don't complicate the sandwich.
Bill
-
Ditto on that. Whatever the bus electrical system and alternator are.
-
The 98 is both but I am not using 90% of the 24 volt original items. so basicaly 12v . Guess I could keep 24V for trading material or emergency. Couple of defroster motors and wipers are the only 24 left. prob replace them with 12V .Control circuits are 12V for DDec and Eaton. Like you said keep it simple. Bob Alt is 12 volt
-
I'll be the contrary voice. You'll never regret switching to 24 volt but you sure might regret switching to 12 volt. Smaller cables, less amps, just generally better choices for systems - if I had the chance to go 24 volt I'd be putting the 12 volt stuff on Craigslist.
-
Is the chassis battery bank set up primarily for 24 volt or 12 volt? What voltage will be going to the solenoid on the starter?
My understanding is if you have a battery bank set up primarily for 24 volts and center tap for 12 volt you'll really only be pulling from half the battery bank at a time on the 12 volt side. Folks, correct me if my understanding is wrong. An equalizer simply balances the two halves of a 24 volt battery bank when drawing from a center tap.
-
Original was 24 V this is a salvage rebuild. I am using A 12 volt engine /alternator out of a freightlinner for a drive train. Have done away with bus air except drivers and the compressor for it has a 12 volt clutch. So basic is a 12 volt electric system. A few 24 volt items will have to be addressed and changed to 12v. Definitely not by the book conversion. Bob
-
When you sell it, do not tell the new owner any of that. You don't want to make his life less interesting!
-
Building it for myself: never thought about selling it. I am keeping records and making detailed drawings of modifications. It was a salvage shell $1200. will have 20,000 when finished. With things like I want them. If it just gets scrapped out that's ok. I like to build. Bob
-
Are all the 60 series ECM's 12 volt??
Nothing wrong with 12 volt if you have the correct size batterys and size the cables properly for the lengths they run.
I currently am a member of a car club, the 55 cars are 6 volt and the 56 cars are 12 volt. All the guys with the 55's rush to convert to 12 volt because of starting problems. Most of the problems can be solved by installing the proper size cables. As these cars got older and had cable replacment most of them got smaller gauge 12 volt cables. Put the proper gauge cables back and they crank as well as the 12 volt cars.
Only problem with the 6 volt cars is finding accessorys (radios, lights, gauges etc) for them. I would think you would have the same problem with 24 volt as most common accessorys are made for a 12 volt system
-
All American trucks are 12v. On my truck, the system is 12v, but has a 12v/24v solenoid in the battery compartment to jump the batteries into 24v for the starter. The main reason is better starting in cold weather. Although now all trucks have 12v starters. The big difference is on my truck, there is only one set of cables going to the starter. On 12v starters you'll have two sets of cables going to the starter. The starters are so much more superior these days-especially the gear drive starters-I'd stay with 12v starters. Good Luck, TomC