BCM Community
Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: David Anderson on April 05, 2019, 07:08:57 PM
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I stopped the bus from the engine bay this morning and noticed somewhat of a light grinding sound
from the turbo as it spun to stop. I don't know if it's normal or not. Everything seems normal as I drive the coach.
No change in power, no smoke from the tailpipe. It may be nothing, but I'd like you guys to hear it and give
me an opinion. I uploaded a 30 second video on youtube. Listen to it wind down for about 3-5 seconds after I turn
off the coach.
https://youtu.be/ds6GnuPxeCw
David
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Pop the exhaust and check for shiny spots sounds like it getting to the end of life
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With exhaust unhooked, grasp the stem or tip of exhaust impeller ith your fingers, not with pliers and attempt to wiggle it up and down. If it moves up and down and feels loose, avoid driving it till you replace or repair it. Once they get sloppy, it's not long for impeller to start desenagrating. Since the intake side and exhaust side impellers are mounted on the same shaft, the intake impeller could make contact also or first, sending metal into engine.
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I am very fortunate I happened to hear this at the back of the coach while shutting off the engine. I got some pieces off today, can't see the impeller yet, but felt it with my fingers and it has noticeable end play. It is all coming off and going to the shop.
I did find a pipe that is bad. A portion of the flange is gone. Pictures attached. Where can I find this elbow?
David
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take it to a truck muffler shop and have a flange weld on or they can make the pipe
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Oh man, oh my, It took me all day to get the turbo off. Lots of heat. lots of penetrant, more heat, tap, tap, more heat, etc. I broke one bolt. Of course it is in the threaded part of the cast iron flange. I have it drilled out almost to the threads. Couldn't find any of my easy outs, so I'll buy some tomorrow. I filled the hole with ATF and acetone mix which works very well as a penetrant, (a youtube suggestion) I'll let it soak overnite.
I called M&D diesel in San Antonio
https://www.mddistributors.com/san-antonio/
They can rebuild as needed. I will drive it up there tomorrow and press on with this. All the turbine blades look good, but lots of end play on both sides, but not hitting any part of the housing. I'm very fortunate to find this before it touched the housing. I read Sean's turbo explosion in the Odyssey in the archives.
https://www.busconversionmagazine.com/forum/index.php?topic=12676.0
There is no way I could have done this on the road without torches and other tools I don't carry.
Any great hints at getting the bolt out would be appreciated.
David
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You are usually better off to leave it to the pro's to laser it out with out damage to the threads.>>>Dan
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double post
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ATF and acetone
Old school Weasel Piss.
Excellent mixture, well used and recommended by many old codgers who are dead and gone.
50:50 mixture, safety first, label your bottles!
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
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M and D is good outfit I install 12 of their turbos last year on some generators,soak the bolt with penetrating oil had heat it that will draw the oil into the part let cool and it should come out easy
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Whatever you do...do not snap off the easy out! You will have remove a broken one with a carbide bit or Burr.btdt
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ATF and acetone
Old school Weasel Piss.
Excellent mixture, well used and recommended by many old codgers who are dead and gone.
50:50 mixture, safety first, label your bottles!
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Yea, what he said with one minor caveat...
Acetone is nail polish remover...DO NOT use it on painted surfaces.
Otherwise, nothing works better.
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Acetone will just harm cheap enamel paint it won't hurt the new type epoxy paints it's like water on the paint,lol years ago I would use brake fluid for a stripper on the old paint
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Acetone is nail polish remover...DO NOT use it on painted surfaces.
Otherwise, nothing works better.
No, Nail polish remover is Acetone with lemon, lol
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Dropped off the turbine at M&D. I took the cast iron elbow for him to clean. He thinks it may be too pitted to use :o. Not sure I agree, but we will see.
I got the bolt out of the turbo mount flange. Took 3 hours. All rethreaded and cleaned up for the rebuilt turbine.
My big problem is the 90 degree elbow with the flange. Nobody has a 5 1/8" OD flange to fit a 5"OD pipe end. It would have to be butt welded to the elbow. I don't really like that. Fleetpride had the ell and flange, but they are the same size. I have been looking online with the same results.
Anyone have any better ideas? Kind of stuck right now.
David
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David any good muffler shop can expand the pipe or the flange to fit they do it everyday
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Call here and see who their supplier is..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-9712/overview/ (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-9712/overview/)
or search here.
https://www.google.com/search?q=AP+Exhaust+Pipe+Flared+Adapters&oq=AP+Exhaust+Pipe+Flared+Adapters&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j69i65l2j69i60&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
(https://www.google.com/search?q=AP+Exhaust+Pipe+Flared+Adapters&oq=AP+Exhaust+Pipe+Flared+Adapters&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j69i65l2j69i60&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
or here...
https://www.apcautotech.com/brands/ap-emissions/ap-emissions (https://www.apcautotech.com/brands/ap-emissions/ap-emissions)
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David any good muffler shop can expand the pipe or the flange to fit they do it everyday
I did some driving around in SA today and nobody said they could expand the flange. I will have to keep looking some more.
They want to do a butt splice weld. I'm sure there is a reason Eagle didn't butt splice this fitting when it was built. I don't feel comfortable with that type of splice.
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Call here and see who their supplier is..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-9712/overview/ (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-9712/overview/)
or search here.
https://www.google.com/search?q=AP+Exhaust+Pipe+Flared+Adapters&oq=AP+Exhaust+Pipe+Flared+Adapters&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j69i65l2j69i60&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
(https://www.google.com/search?q=AP+Exhaust+Pipe+Flared+Adapters&oq=AP+Exhaust+Pipe+Flared+Adapters&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j69i65l2j69i60&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8)
or here...
https://www.apcautotech.com/brands/ap-emissions/ap-emissions (https://www.apcautotech.com/brands/ap-emissions/ap-emissions)
I have actually been looking at these pages but haven't found one yet.
Thanks
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The flange Eagle used was a Nelson or a Riker, man where is Norris when you need him I looked through some papers and never did find where I bought those flanges or the complete 90 bend
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This may work. No length given. I will have to call tomorrow
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That one won't work. It is too long on the flare side to the corner and too short on the sleeve side to reach the next exhaust joint.
I need 10" from the flare to the corner and 12" from the corner to the end of the sleeve.
The combo in my following attachments may work. I can cut the 12" leg and somehow get the flare welded on there. The other leg with the sleeve is 12" which is perfect.
The flare in the attachment from United Muffler is 5.63" which is exactly what I have now. Apparently I have a marmon flare to my turbo pipe. This is the only 5.63" fitting I've found. All others have been 5.75 or 5.88.
The challenge is getting a 5"OD flare welded to 5"OD elbow pipe.
BTW-the rebuild price on my turbo is $1300
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I don't know why you can't get it butt welded by a competent welder. Scores of piping have been butt welded over the years with no issues. You could also work the end of elbow with a ballpein hammer to enlarge it enough to allow the flange to just enter the pipe a touch. Many exhaust pipes for special applications have pieces butt welded together.
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The factory uses butt welds a blacksmith forge weld type I doubt a regular wire weld would hold in the long run
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Have it stick welded with a good alloy rod by a certified welder.
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I do this for a living. Butt welds properly done will outlast the tubing. ALL Y pipes are basically butt welded. The only way possible. As long as the weld is done by a competent welder it will probably outlast you.
BTW, with the looks of that flare the Vband clamp was probably loose. Make sure you replace it as well.
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I enlisted a local welder to attach the flange. $40 later it was ready to install. It took lots of grinding, filing, and buffing to get it to seat correctly to the cast iron elbow. Whew, the whole exhaust assembly is a tight fit all the way to the muffler, but I got it done.
I followed the startup procedure instructions precisely, and all went well. The bus ran great.
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Beautiful turbo!
I don't have one, so I admire others...