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Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: windtrader on April 11, 2019, 06:27:10 PM
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Are there specs for a portable compressor that airs up bus and tires in pretty short times? HF has one on rated at 2.2scfm @ 90 psi.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-12-hp-135-psi-ultra-quiet-oil-free-professional-air-compressor-64688.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-12-hp-135-psi-ultra-quiet-oil-free-professional-air-compressor-64688.html)
I have a spare one I was planning to put on the bus but it's a lot less effort to just swipe the CC if it works.
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That's a 1.2 HP 2-gallon compressor, so I think it would take you a LOOOOONG time to fill a 12R22.5" tire to over 100 PSI. I have a Harbor Fright 2 HP 4-gallon twin-tank compressor that still barely can fill my tires much over 100 PSI, but it's a useful air source otherwise for tools. I feed it into the bus's accessories system, and I put a valve to connect that system with the bus's brake system in an emergency - it will then air the entire bus to 120 PSI in about 15 minutes!
One significant difference however with mine - the advertised one is oil-less, mine is oil-lubricated. Oil-less compressors are usually noisier than oily ones, run hotter, wear out quicker, and simply won't last as long. I personally wouldn't buy one of them.
John
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That one will take time to air a 12r x22.5 up to 100 psi if my memory hasn't failed like other parts of the body it take 5800 cubic inches of air to reach 35 psi my Humvee takes 7500 cu in to reach 40 lbs and it works the on board compressor for long time the more psi the slower the build up with tiny compressors with little tanks.Use your bus compressor it's 12.5 cfm
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Our on board 1 hp 6.4 CFM @ 90 psi airs our entire bus up from zero in five minutes. It feeds into the main compressor discharge muffler so it also cycles through the drier. It is an oiled commercial vintage craftsman unit. Its next to impossible to find a 1 hp 110 VAC compressor in the modern market that produces 6.4 cfm. Times have truly changed. We like old stuff... Must be some pretty heavy busses when talking PSIs to 120. Our 4104 fronts are 90 psi, rears are 75 psi as per specific tire load chart. Those pressures may be a tad higher on our upcoming AK trip - the bus is loaded like the Clampetts! lol
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Harbor Freight has a recently new model that looks worth the look. Blue tank. Handle removeable, 85db, 150 psi max rated. On sale for $115 . Can't do bad at that price. I'd use it if I didn't already have an old Sears oilless model. Don't discount oilless. Even if Teflon rings wear out, just buy a parent set, since cylinder wall doesn't wear. And you don't have another oil level to check, along with oil in the air supply. My compressor has worked for a lot of hours, and still puts out sufficient air volume. Only problem I had was previous coach owner never drained water from tank. It had a little over 3 gallons in it.
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Check out this one from California Air compressors-made here in US not a cheap Chinese model from Harbor Freight. https://www.californiaairtools.com/ultra-quiet-series-of-air-compressor-contractor-grade/2-0-hp-air-compressors/cat-4620ac/
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$306 on Amazon. You can buy 2 from Harbor freight, keep one as a spare if the first one craps out in 10 years.
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$306 on Amazon. You can buy 2 from Harbor freight, keep one as a spare if the first one craps out in 10 years.
Or 10 days ... I am SO done with HF ...
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For filling tires, a tank is not really needed. Here is a model from California Air Tools which may fit the bill:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tankless+air+compressor&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
It has a 125 psi max, and looks like it will pack pretty neatly into a bay. Guess at 125 psi max it could also be used to fill the air system in the bus at a campground.
Wish I had seen this before buying the one I've got.
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The Cali compressors really struggle at 100 lbs mine says it will pump 2 cfm at 90 # that won't happen when it reaches 80# it takes forever to reach 115#, fwiw they have replaced mine twice
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For those unfamiliar...
The retail marketing of air compressors is a steaming pile...
You want a pump that can pump. That is measured in CFM - cubic feet per minute.
The next important measure is at what pressure it is capable of that CFM rating. Beware, some advertise a CFM at 45 lbs... a poor measure intended to mask a weak compressor... a busnut is more concerned with the more typical CFM at 90 lbs rating.
The HP - horsepower of the motor is next to meaningless and is intended to fool you. Ignore this number, it's intended to distract you. If it has good CfM, by default, it has the motor needed to get there.
Worse, the size of the attached tank doesn't help fill a bus. Tank size only helps in a very small window of pressure recovery, if the unit is being used in short, high volume bursts, again, not a condition a busnut is likely to be in.
Buy the largest CFM number at 90 lbs, that you have the cash for, and you'll be happy.
Defend yourself against the marketers!!!
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
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The CA air Tool compressors are assembled in the US not made in the US they have a small place in San Diego with around 15 employees I have been there before,they do run quite with their intake system design .When I stopped by they were doing the Kobalt for Lowes
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Compressor noise comes almost entirely from the intake, so it's possible to build a baffled and silenced intake for almost any compressor install.
Almost any compressor can be run from almost any motor. The key is in the reduction of the drive. Old compressors ran slow, had a long stroke, were big and heavy and lasted a long time. New designs are direct drive, have a short stroke, are arguably less efficient, noisy, and the noise they do make is more unpleasant. However they are lighter and cheaper. If space and weight were not a concern the older compressor, biggest one you could get belted up to the motor of your choice at a ratio that won't burn out the motor is a good choice, the limitation being power to drive the motor. But in a bus you don't generally have that luxury so a new direct drive and a good inlet muffler is probably the way to go. CFM rating is one way to pick it. Amperage draw is the other. Don't rely on HP ratings, check the data plate for the motor. Your limitation is how many amps you can supply to it. If the CFM and HP ratings seem unusually high for the current it takes, somebody is lying.
Jim
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A lot depends on what you are going to use a compressor for. For use to maintain air bag pressure when camping for extended times, these small ones work fine. For inflating tires, why wouldn't you use the one on the coach? Noise? Bury it in the baggage compartment if necessary, or build a hush box.
To save money, buy an old Sears two cylinder belt driven air compressor.up to 3 hp, they use same pump. 5 hp model has a little more displacement. I used a Sears two cylinder pump on an aftermarket 20 gallon tank, oversize pulley, and ran it with a 5 hp 3450 rpm motor. I used this setup for years until I could afford a commercial 5 hp IR compressor, and an Emglo backup 5 hp compressor. Ran air tools, pumped up tires, removed coach lugnuts with a 3/4 drive IR gun. It took longer to catch up after breaking one or two loose, but it worked. I now use that compressor in the car garage for tires, or whatever. Still works great. Just regularily replaced oil with Mobil Rarus 409 or some number. Just find one cheap and go for it.
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Don -
That HF compressor you linked to in your initial post is exactly the same one I have in my baggage bay.
I've used it to fill the coach air system from the rear, adjusted tire pressures (both coach and toad), run a couple of air-powered tools, and some other miscellaneous chores.
So far it's done what I wanted it to, and, as a bonus, it's also very quiet, far more so than the one that was in the MCI.
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
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This is the new one of the one I have and mine is 10 years old. It is 125psi max 2 gallon but has dual tanks. ;)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Campbell-Hausfeld-2-Gal-Twin-Stack-Air-Compressor-Kit/196240407?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1475&adid=22222222227043144779&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=107389175117&wl4=pla-299145025757&wl5=9032516&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113500168&wl11=online&wl12=196240407&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhsaY3-TO4QIVispkCh0KOwVFEAQYBSABEgIZSvD_BwE
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Don -
That HF compressor you linked to in your initial post is exactly the same one I have in my baggage bay.
I've used it to fill the coach air system from the rear, adjusted tire pressures (both coach and toad), run a couple of air-powered tools, and some other miscellaneous chores.
So far it's done what I wanted it to, and, as a bonus, it's also very quiet, far more so than the one that was in the MCI.
FWIW & HTH. . .
;)
I tried to follow that link and it took me to a page with about a dozen compressors on it. Not really helpful.
Jim
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10 days??? Ok, lets get into it.
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LOL 10 days is a long time for HF, I took back a electric pole saw 4 times in 1 week I finally gave up and paid 20 bucks more for 1 at HD.I will give HF credit they honor their warranty with no BS, how they do that selling junk is beyond me
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There is a lot of good things at HF too. I like if it breaks we just take it back and most tools they replace. If I use their cheap spray guns I just toss them and get another one instead of wasting the thinner to clean them, LOL :)
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Uh, Oonrahnjay said it on page 1.
Or 10 days ... I am SO done with HF ...
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Cliff, the electric work best if you plug them in. The battery ones have to be charged. Oh, and they arent designed to trim sequoias.lol
You seem to have more trouble than most with Harbor Freight stuff.
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Cliff, the electric work best if you plug them in. The battery ones have to be charged. Oh, and they arent designed to trim sequoias.lol
You seem to have more trouble than most with Harbor Freight stuff.
Lol I believe they send all the stuff they warranty to Bullhead City to be sold again ,I don't really buy anything from HF.I have 2 sets of combo wrenches hanging on the wall for people to use none have walked off like my good stuff ::).The free AA batteries won't even turn my camera on fresh out of the package
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You guys are TOO funny... When I was running heavy industrial work I'd buy tons of HF tools for the crew, especially electric tools because when one went overboard & hit the ground - Wala! trash it & pull a brand new one out of the tool room. Could buy 10 HF to 1 Name brand so it all worked out well... Personally my total personal purchases from HF tallies at about less than 3 percent.
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The HF drill master 4 amp grinder is junk my cutting wheels I buy from a local welding supply 1 blade will out last the grinder
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Yeah, hf free batteries, I won't touch. I'll take the free with any purchase moving blanket, flashlights, tarps, magnets, though. They many times have two or three levels of quality on their electric tools. Lately, they have been offering new improved items for many of their catgories. I'm just tired of spending the crazy money Snap On gets any more, and I don't use stuff as constantly as I used to.
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Clifford do mean the 4inch grinder? I went through 3 of those in a year doing a lot of tile work. I don't like the pushup switch on those. ;D
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Clifford do mean the 4inch grinder? I went through 3 of those in a year doing a lot of tile work. I don't like the pushup switch on those. ;D
yep they are a PITA ,my Dwalt I bought in the 80's all I have ever done is replaced the cord once
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Now don't y'all be badmouthing those grinders. I keep about a half dozen of them on the bench with various wheels, brushes, whatever. Where else can you pick up an angle grinder for $20, turn around and trade in the one that just went belly up for free, get a pair of replacement brushes with each one and walk out of the store with 2 new grinders for $10 each? THEY ARE DISPOSABLE! I use them about like nitrile gloves. And if you manage your receipts every new grinder purchase is worth at least 2 grinders if you're honorable, much more if you aren't especially concerned about your business partners. While they last they are just as good as the name brands, can often be brought back to life by simply swapping in a new brush or two.
I've found it to be a much better deal than the Milwaulkee I used to use. Just not having to change wheels is a major advantage.
Jim
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Milwaulkee, now that is another story. I got one of the fuel 18 drills and like it with the brush-less motor except for the sound. Worked well for 6 months and then it started not working. took it back and got another one and it started doing the same thing. I took it apart and found that the switch forward and reverse has a piece of metal that has a bend in it and thats what changes the F & R settings. It stopped sliding. Tried super gluing it and 1 month later it was doing it again. It works if i pound it on my hand in forward but reverse 1/2 the time. I got one of their sawzalls that was not the fuel one and its a pice of junk too. Going back to dewalt.
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Dave I have 18v Dewalt that the forward reverse quit it's about 8 years old I took it into a factory store when we were in Vegas and they charged me $1.47 for the switch installed while I waited
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Milwaulkee, now that is another story. I got one of the fuel 18 drills and like it with the brush-less motor except for the sound. Worked well for 6 months and then it started not working. took it back and got another one and it started doing the same thing. I took it apart and found that the switch forward and reverse has a piece of metal that has a bend in it and thats what changes the F & R settings. It stopped sliding. Tried super gluing it and 1 month later it was doing it again. It works if i pound it on my hand in forward but reverse 1/2 the time. I got one of their sawzalls that was not the fuel one and its a pice of junk too. Going back to dewalt.
Well I like Milwaukee...
Really, though, Milwaukee brushless tools have replaced almost all the corded tools in the shop, lights, drills, drivers, sawzalls, Impacts, however i still use corded grinders. Why, I am not sure... :P
And yes, I repair small tools, and the 2nd generation milwaukee fuel drills had problems with the chuck and the directional switch, however I have not had those problems with the new models.
But here we are back to chevy ford dodge and cat cummins detroit. But let me just say all the brands will get the job done. ;)
Even HF! ;D
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I have the 4 1/2" dewalt. Works well. If it ever craps out, I'll buy a hf Hercules blue 11amp.
I've replaced two of my Makita drills with Hercules and really like them. The impace drive one is great at removing and installing deck screws. I dismantled a wood deck around an above ground swimming pool with it and worked flawlessly. Had to remove several hundred screws. It is a brush style, not like the latest brushless competitors, but I had those Makitas for more than 20 years without brush issues, so that is not a concern.
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Yes, certainly a lot of HF stuff is just crap, but there are a few diamonds in the rough there. My rule for their electrical items is very simple - only buy their best quality (i.e. most expensive) of whatever tool you need, only buy it on sale or with a coupon, and (this is important) before you even use it the first time take it apart and add lots of good grease or oil to the gears. Chinese grease looks and smells like poop and doesn't do much in the parsimonious quantities that you usually find it. I do this without fail, and guess what, the drills or angle grinders or whatnots run quiet and smooth and keep working reliably.
So far my cheapo HF 1/2" single-speed corded "magnesium" drill has outlasted my expensive made-in-USA Craftsman drill. My HF Dremeloid has outlasted my genuine Dremel (which actually spat its brushes out in a puff of acrid smoke one day!), and because it cost a quarter of the real one's price I don't care if it dies the next time I use it. Buying a brand-name item only guarantees that you've spent more - they all can (and do) die without warning. Would I buy a Harbor Freight pacemaker or Scuba gear or parachute or DIY bomb defusing kit - no, of course not, but for life's less critical things HF can be OK, sometimes.
John