BCM Community
Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: Jcparmley on July 15, 2019, 02:58:30 PM
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Hello All
I am planing on using the original MCI Windows on my budget build. My question is how to mount the window to the new wall thickness? I plan on adding insulation so my finished wall will be thicker than the original bus wall. I can't just use longer screws in the trim ring because the window won't latch. If anyone has any pics of their installations that would be very helpful. Thanks
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Do you mean the big windows down the sides?
I'd be working around what's there, I can't imagine fooling with all that hardware and structure.
Work out how to bring the thickened walls to the edge of the window and decide on how to deal with the transition. Framed out, a bit of recess, etc
Heavy insulated curtains figure prominently in many busnut builds to help with the glass heat/cold.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
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Yes, the side windows.
Do you mean the big windows down the sides?
I'd be working around what's there, I can't imagine fooling with all that hardware and structure.
Work out how to bring the thickened walls to the edge of the window and decide on how to deal with the transition. Framed out, a bit of recess, etc
Heavy insulated curtains figure prominently in many busnut builds to help with the glass heat/cold.
happy coaching!
buswarrior
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Hi JCP, Gary Bennett built these for me, leaving the emergency releases functional, pretty wood, insulated cellular drapes with no external strings or controls, no banging around of the drapes, lvmci...
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So it looks like your walls are original. Did you us any insulation? I was planing on building out my wall. So my question is how to mount the original windows in a thicker wall. The wood in yours looks awesome. I was planing on using the blinds like yours. I hope they will keep it cooler.
Hi JCP, Gary Bennett built these for me, leaving the emergency releases functional, pretty wood, insulated cellular drapes with no external strings or controls, no banging around of the drapes, lvmci...
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The walls get thickened below the window, with a sill as thick as you want to make it.
So the windows stay in their stock location, recessed into the added space of insulation.
How are you planning to stay warm on the road, if you're taking out all the wall bits and filling with insulation?
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
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The stock windows on my 102C3, are 1 & 2 pane, only the rubber gasket change, i too will finish off bottom and rear with finished plywood and more insulation, in the southwest more heat comes from the roof, the C3 came from the factory with a higher roof, I will use the I-beams for the luggage rack, to drop the ceiling, hide ductwork, wiring and add more insulation, the insulated cellular drapes have made all the difference on direct sunlight heat in the interior, lvmci...
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I like those.
Jim
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Instead of finishing off with plywood, consider some of the flooring like Pergo; one that won't be effected by any moisture that eventually ends up around windows, either from leaks, condensation, or leaving open in damp or rainy weather.
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Teak. Just sayin...
Jim
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I'm rebooting this old thread of mine rather than starting a new one. I'm wondering what you all think about the cost of replacement Peninsula windows. Is it worth the extra cost to use Peninsula windows or stick with the stock two pane that I already have?
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JC, I only have two windows in the middle removed and covered with sheet aluminium, but the next forward windows have the emergency bar and mechanisms removed and screwed down in place on curb side for the countertop, on street side the appliance barn over the propane heater, TV pipe and folding tv tables, chairs. These windows can still be opened up with some doing to replace glass or gaskets. The removed windows are filled with closed cell foam with aluminum foil on one side 1" thick, I replaced the drivers side small window with a Penisula brand sliding window, which I'm happy with, lvmci...
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Here's Gary riveting and stretching the aluminium over the 2 windows taken out...after fixing mechanical issues I'm going to replace the door window with a sliding screen window and full bedroom window with screen slide from Peninsula...
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I would keep the original double pane windows. They are better than the Peninsula, which in my opinion are overrated, and very expensive. The only disadvantage is that they are not sliders. But you can open them and prop them up while parked, and figure out some kind of bug screen for them.
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On my J4500, I discovered that ALL of the side windows mount the same way (flip up), regardless of whether or not they are Emergency Exits. The only difference is the latch hardware. Unfortunately, the emergency exit windows are the center three on each side, which is where I'm removing the windows. So, I just moved emergency exit windows (which have the bar/latch hardware) to other window spaces front/rear and all I have to do is move the frame hardware that the latches "catch." That will still allow me to have emergency exit windows front and rear. I am also contemplating magnetically attached screen material, so we can open the windows whenever we want.
On the thickness question, I am building out the wall thickness a little (standard wall thickness is about 3 inches), but the J doesn't have trim rings. I'm just planning a sill that will cover the exposed edges.
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I have the bus windows, but four of them slide, and the rest pop up.
I accidentally hit a rear window with a crowbar, so I'll need to replace it when I decide how the interior layout will be re-arranged.
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We covered 5 of the windows and retained 7 of the original windows and replaced the two front windows with Motion Windows, they mounted right in without any modifications.
The tint on them matched almost exactly the tint on the original windows, they do not leak, no wind noise at 70 mph, we are very happy with them and use them all the time, the built in screens are nice.
We plan on replacing the two rear windows in the bedroom with Motion windows.
One of the benefits we originally had not thought of is the ability to have open windows while we are driving.
In my opinion although relatively expensive well worth the price.
(http://www.peterbylt.com/mci96a3/window6.JPG)
Peter
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We covered 5 of the windows and retained 7 of the original windows and replaced the two front windows with Motion Windows, they mounted right in without any modifications.
The tint on them matched almost exactly the tint on the original windows, they do not leak, no wind noise at 70 mph, we are very happy with them and use them all the time, the built in screens are nice.
We plan on replacing the two rear windows in the bedroom with Motion windows.
One of the benefits we originally had not thought of is the ability to have open windows while we are driving.
In my opinion although relatively expensive well worth the price.
Where did you get those? I would like to find a couple of drop-in replacements.
(http://www.peterbylt.com/mci96a3/window6.JPG)
Peter
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daddysgirl,
We got these from Peninsular Glass, Motion Windows.
https://www.rvwindows.com/ (https://www.rvwindows.com/)
Peter
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Do you have an email address for them? They don't make contacting them easy.
Jim
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my 4905 has several motion windows except the one by the driver. I got one for it and installed last year. I think it may have been obe of the last ones available, Ive heard that they arent available for GMC's anymore. expensive, very nicely made, super weatherstrip supplied with it, and nice wood shipping crate to protect it.
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We bit the bullet and got custom windows for our bus, from motion. 7week lead time for custom windows didn’t seem bad , price was plenty but they are nice windows
Jim for custom windows they have a build sheet on their website not sure if they still have bus windows
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Finally got their email app to work and heard back from them right away. Side windows for the DL are $525 and $685, single and DP respectively. Not cheap but within the budget if I did 2 windows in the front and 2 in the bedroom. That will likely happen but maybe not until after the bus hits the road. Hard to say what the shipping will be.
Jim
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Yeah, not cheap, but nice. I think my driver's window was around $400.
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I wanted to use the original windows on my transit bus (AMGeneral) to save money. But they were rattly, leaky and could hear out side through the gaps (because they were emergency opening windows-nice when working on the bus though). I decided to go with Peninsula windows. With the shape, only single pane windows were available and had to be mounted to the outside. WELL-the bus now is so tight I have to keep the bathroom roof vent open all the time. Otherwise when I close the outside door, my ears pop.
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Cars and trucks have out of site flap vents to avoid this. The issue popped up for the first times wives angrily slammed car doors. Hmmm maybe thats why married mens hearing goes bad as they age.😂
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I've got a similar problem on my coach - if the nose vent isn't cracked open there's a sudden pressure jump inside if the door is closed quickly.
When we've got the OTR a/c or heat running we have the opposite problem - the HVAC system brings in a small amount of fresh air as it runs, and that pressurizes the interior of the coach. While everything is turned off we can usually just leave the door in the closed position as we load, but if the OTR HVAC system is running the door will blow itself open every time we try to close it unless it's latched.
GM builds a tight bus. For sure.
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I always keep bathroom vent open an inch. Moisture is not your friend.
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Especially if it's part of a fart. Couldn't resist...
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Totally agree!!! :)
Especially if it's part of a fart. Couldn't resist...
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Cars and trucks have out of site flap vents to avoid this. The issue popped up for the first times wives angrily slammed car doors. Hmmm maybe thats why married mens hearing goes bad as they age.😂
Apparently Dodge forgot about those for the 2019 Ram. My dad bought one and you have to close the door hard or it won't latch unless you crack the window. You'll also get the wonderful ear popping.
At least I talked him out of a Ford...