BCM Community
Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: Glennman on May 25, 2020, 09:19:20 PM
-
Hello all,
I just finished removing the (2) 1" hoses that lead from the transmission to the heat exchanger on the side of the engine. One had a leak in it (it got scraped or something). In the process, I'm looking at the 1" hose leading from the alternator (or generator) to the side of the oil pan. The 1" hose is in pretty good shape and is attached with hose clamps. Does that hose have pressure behind it? It doesn't seem like it would, since it just dumps into the side of the oil pan.
The point is that it would be very difficult to replace, but while I have the tranny hoses off, now would be the time to do it. It would involve draining all my new oil and putting it back. I'm thinking of leaving the hose there for now. Thoughts? Thanks, Glennman
-
The alternator hose is just a simple drain, no pressure.
I like to know the age of all the consumables and rubber bits, but that needs to be tempered with timing...
If it looks good, hose clamps are pristine, remember that's hot engine oil dribbling down through there...that one might wait until there is better reason to replace it...? inconvenient to change the oil and put it back vs OCD?
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
-
Look close I think the hose you are looking at is the turbo drain hose,if the alternator is mounted on the rear of the engine it drains back through the engine,1 inch is a big hose for a alternator drain ? is that a side mounted turbo on your MCI,most MCI 8 have a side mounted or rear mounted turbo
-
Luvrbus,
I agree that it seems like a rather large drain hose to be coming from the alternator. It is a 1" hose, clamped to a barbed fitting on the side of he alternator at one end, the other onto another barbed fitting into the side of the oil pan. The transmission lines are more like hydraulic hoses with special fittings. The alternator is belt driven (4 belts), and is mounted above and to the drivers side of the transmission. The entire hose is visible, but besides having to drain the oil, the ends are difficult to get to. Since it is only a drain and is not under pressure, I think I will wait on that one.
The turbo is mounted on the top almost exactly in the center of the motor (slightly to the driver's side), and to the front of the engine (above the fuel pump area).
-
Interesting, swapping an oil cooled into an air cooled position.
One would love to hear the explanation... something thoughtful and technical, or some hourly rated employee who got told fix it with what you can find in the store room...?
You never know what you'll find in a bus...
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
-
Interesting, swapping an oil cooled into an air cooled position.
One would love to hear the explanation... something thoughtful and technical, or some hourly rated employee who got told fix it with what you can find in the store room...?
You never know what you'll find in a bus...
Happy coaching!
They did some modifications to get a top mounted turbo engine in a MCI 8 also
Buswarrior
-
Hey Buswarrior,
If people don't mind me hijacking my own thread a bit, I wasn't planning to change from oil cooled to air cooled (transmission), although that does sound intriguing. I hear that this takes a lot of heat away from the engine. Have you ever seen that done with an MCI, and if so, where would one install the radiator and fans, etc?
-
Glen I think Bus Warrior was talking about your alternator goin from air cooled to oil cooled which explains the aftermarket oil line.
As for cooling the trans: I just replaced my engine in my coach and whilst at it, I yanked that coolant/transmission fluid cooler and installed a huge Hayden cooler in the floor of the engine bay on the drivers side. Now my temps run a lot cooler. Definitely worth it for me.
-
Thank you Scott and Heather. I'll do some research into the Hayden cooler. Much appreciated.
-
Ok Scott and Heather, I googled the Heyden coolers. What size did you install, and did you install a fan behind it? or, is that necessary?
-
Where's Tom C?
Maybe 20k btu heat rejection for the Allison? Don't quote me, been a long time...
Look for the ones with the biggest hose attachments, you want to be running that same big hose to it.
Measure the side door, the one that most folks are running will fit on the door.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
-
1292 or 2305 Hayden. Both have 1" fittings.Even listed on Amazon and other sources.
-
Do the Heyden coolers need fans installed over them?
-
They need airflow through them to be effective. Whether the fan or fans need to run constantly or thermostatically controlled would be a choice. May want an override switch to bypass thermostat in some situations. Scott said his run constantly. In that case, may want to carry a spare fan in case of failure.
-
We went with the HDA-1297 cooler if I remember correctly. It’s a heavy duty one pass cooler. It’s huge so be sure you have the room to put it somewhere before you buy it. Summit Racing sells them. I do have a twin fan setup and it runs all the time. But your best bet would be to put the fans on a thermostatic Control.
-
Do you have a transmission temperature gauge to monitor running temp?
-
For the future readers, so its in one place:
The needs are very different, between an auxiliary trans cooler, plumbed in-line to the stock oil to anti-freeze cooler, and a dedicated stand alone oil to air cooler.
Many with an aux report little need for the fans to run, when mounted in the curb side engine access door, as there's enough wind there.
With a dedicated, all the heat has to leave via that cooler, and fans are WAY more important to shed all the trans heat.
Scott has a dedicated.
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
-
Since his is mounted underneath, I can see the needs for the fans. Wonder what fans he used? Probably something from Summit for autos. Those are set up ready to go and some can move some serious air.
-
I ran a ISCAAN on a 4060 Allison yesterday the owner installed a 22x28 double pass Hayden cooler with fans it wasn't even close to the heat rejection need for the 4060 WT @ 80% torque converter capacity he going to water to oil
-
Too small. Go with larger single pass
-
Too small. Go with larger single pass
Hayden sized it for him and the CFM on the fans ,Allison tells you that you can use a air to oil cooler they just will not commit to the size and flow needed,they do commit saying water to oil is more efficient in less space in the Allison application manual lol maybe because Allison does make a air to oil cooler
-
Since Hayden makes the coolers up to 415,000 btu heat rejection, I guess their recommendation for that particular application was too conservative. Or he had limited installation space.
-
I did install a gauge and then promptly wired it wrong and blew it up. So I need to buy another one. My cooler, is 34” by 30” give or take. It’s huge. I have a twin fam setup from Hayden as well. Twin 16” fans. They move a ton of air and sound like a Boeing 747 at idle.
-
The little 8x8 x4 16 plate double coolers on the Detroits do a good job cooling the engine oil and transmissions,the way they are design the water pump pulls the cooled water from the radiator then through the cooler first then into the engine monitor your engine oil temperature and you tell how good they work
-
Well, I installed my new transmission coolant hoses today. Spendy buggers. $244.00 for 2, 1" hoses. One is 52", the other 32". I decided not to install a separate cooler just yet. I'll be putting the fluid in tomorrow. When filling the transmission, there is a "cold" mark on the dip stick, and a "hot" range. When you check the fluid, do you have it running, like to old cars? Is the cold mark for when it's not running, and it's cold? At any rate, I'll figure it out, but thought I'd get all your guys' input. It's late now and I'm getting tired, so I start asking dumb questions. Thank you, Glennman.
-
Like your car, running.
If it has been sitting, same as the car, cycle through reverse and drive to ensure everything is full of juice, the way it is supposed to be, before pulling the stick.
Cold and hot depending on...
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
-
Thanks Bus Warrior!
It says right on the dipstick that you check it while running. It was late; you know how it is.
Fired up the bus tonight, no leaks.
On to the next project.
Glennman
-
Glen I think Bus Warrior was talking about your alternator goin from air cooled to oil cooled which explains the aftermarket oil line.
As for cooling the trans: I just replaced my engine in my coach and whilst at it, I yanked that coolant/transmission fluid cooler and installed a huge Hayden cooler in the floor of the engine bay on the drivers side. Now my temps run a lot cooler. Definitely worth it for me.
Scott, When you say that you installed the Hayden cooler in "the floor of the engine bay", does that mean it faces the ground? I'm thinking I could install mine on the passenger side under the bus floor in the engine compartment, but it would not be taking air directly from the outside, as it would be in the environment of the engine compartment. However, there is a lot of open area that is exposed to the outside. Do you think that would get enough air? Or, should I install it in place of the side access door?