BCM Community
Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: David Anderson on June 27, 2020, 08:05:11 PM
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I just stopped at my destination in Cheney WA and noticed the broken studs on my drivers side. What is the best way to get the remaining stud off the inside dual? A pipe wrench with a jack maybe? Left hand threads. I will be here a week.
David
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Pull the outer wheel a pipe wrench should do it,me I would go to a tire shop they have tool for removing those or buy your own for $100 bucks tire shop is the cheapest and you are in Les Schwab territory so not a problem there
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If yours are really good and stuck like mine were you can take a dremel with a 90 degree turn attachment and a tiny cutoff wheel to it to help it come loose. Just be careful to not cut into the wheel or inner stud. Heat helps as well though you want to avoid cooking everything of course.
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For less than 50 bucks take it to Les and save some grief and time,lol that is only 10 loads of clothes David at your place of business
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If its $50 I'd agree for sure. My method took a solid 2 hours per lug and wasn't fun at all. Unfortunately with the rest of what I needed to work on I didn't want to drive it anywhere and was quoted $150 per hour to even get a guy out there.
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It looks like there may be enough thread to get a nut on it after the outer dual is removed. If it bottoms out on the inner nut flange it could unscrew it. I will check with Les Swab Monday. Just down the street from me
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I took one outer nut off a good stud. There is 1” of thread on the 2 broken studs. They should come off in a reasonable fashion.
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You cannot get it off without taking the outside wheel off, the taper on the inside nut prevents the nut from coming through the wheel if I understand what you are trying to do
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This is why I use Never Seize on all my lug nuts. Never had a frozen one. Good Luck, TomC
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This is why I use Never Seize on all my lug nuts. Never had a frozen one. Good Luck, TomC
Lol you know how to stir up s^^^ on a Sunday night TomC 8)
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Here we go...😱😱
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You cannot get it off without taking the outside wheel off, the taper on the inside nut prevents the nut from coming through the wheel if I understand what you are trying to do
Right, I realize that. I have the tools to do this, but not my electric impact to spin them up. Would have to do it manually which is really slow. I’m with my volunteer group and need to work with them all week, not work on the bus. I will make an appt with Schwab probably for July 6 when we are off.
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This is frustrating however. I think this is the 8th stud to break on me in the last 5 years. Does it normally happen this often?
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Are you buying good inner nuts and the right inner nut for your setup ? they usually don't break unless the stud is to short for the inner nut and leaves to much of the inner nut with no thread on the inside,we had to change all of Gary Hatts inner nuts a tire shop installed the wrong inner nuts on his Eagle
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This is the first time I had them break on the duals. All the other failures were on the front or bogeys.
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Someone along the way may have been over torquing them..>>>Dan ( Or under torquing them,)
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This is the first time I had them break on the duals. All the other failures were on the front or bogeys.
That seldom happens on a Eagle usually it always the rear since the studs are so much smaller,over torqueing the wheels on the front and bogeys most of the time cost you a wheel Since you have Alcoa I would check the seat on the wheels they maybe worn out and the nut sinks too deep into the wheel ,also check the bevel on the nut for a long time Alcoa had different bevels on wheels you can find the degree bevel stamped on the wheel >Alcoa outer nuts are thicker than the average lug nut and are more exspensive last I bought where around $4.00 each
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I made over to Schwab on Monday. 3 more lugs were broken as he began removal. Wow I was close to a disastrous failure. Examining the broken pieces we could tell by the rust they were broken for a long time. The wheels were not damaged. I replaced all 10 and put it all together and back on my way.
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Nice tool.
Jim
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Did you verify the stud standout was per Alcoa's spec of 1.31" to 1.44" ?
Mine were at 1.28", so I installed new studs to achieve enough stud standout so the inner nut was well supported under the outer nut. (I also got new inner nuts that were threaded deep enough that they did not bottom out on the stud.)
I use a cordless drill adapted to a torque multiplier to remove the nuts without straining. I use the same setup to pre-tighten the nuts before I finish with a torque wrench.
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Did you verify the stud standout was per Alcoa's spec of 1.31" to 1.44" ?
No I didn’t. I assumed the place I purchased them from 18 years ago did it all correctly. I new very little about buses and wheels then.
Where do I measure the 1.31” from? I assume you are talking about the stud length protruding out of the wheel drum?
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Wheel stud protrusion is the distance from the surface the wheel mounts to to the end of the stud.
I went with 1.93" protrusion. I measured & re measured. Then to be sure, I ran the inner nut down on the stud & counted total revolutions without the wheel & then again after the wheel was installed to verify the nut wasn't bottoming out - I had an extra couple of turns left.
I don't trust tire stores - too much emphasis is placed on getting it done quickly & not enough emphasis on quality . . . . I've seen too many instances of putting the nuts on with an impact & stripping the threads. . .