BCM Community
Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: Scott & Heather on November 05, 2020, 07:26:11 AM
-
So I have about 1500 miles on my completely rebuilt 8v92TA and Leid wants me to change the break in oil out for Mobil Delvac 1240. I just ordered two 5 gal pails of the oil and now need to get a filter. I want the best for my engine since it’s basically brand new so what do you recommend for an oil filter? And part numbers too please!
-
I would think Leid would have installed a good one to protect their warrenty,, look for the number and make on the one you have..>>>Dan
-
Yes, or call Leid.
-
I buy mine at the Detroit Allison dealer. Their price is no more than anywhere.
-
NAPA Gold #1970 made by Wix it's a good filter LOL question why Delvac 1240
-
Probably because they don't make 1140 anymore. That what we used years ago. When Mobil and Exxon combined several years ago, they dropped the 1240 in Delvac name and called it XD 40. Then they went back to Delvac 1240.
-
C'mon! All oils are the same :P
-
The old Detroit 2-stroke oil question all over again. And no, all oils are NOT the same when it comes to the Detroit 2-strokes. I sure hope you're kidding.
I've burned lots of electrons trying to explain the need for using ONLY DELO 100 Mineral based, NOT synthetic 400 based, straight 40wt oil in all 2-strokes to the uninitiated. Never, Ever, any multi-grade oil of any kind. The key is the low ash content CF2 certification. Or any equivalent CF2 rated oil from another reputable maker will do. It's getting real hard to find so it's always a good idea to have plenty of it with you at all times since you will probably not find any on the road. I Checked and it appears that the Mobile Delvac 1240 is one of the CF2 equivalent oils and would be OK in the straight 40wt. Delvac specs show sulphated ash at .82% which is certainly below the 1% that Detroit Diesel recommends and is close to the slightly lower DELO 100 which I seem to remember was about .78% so it's all good. Actually I just checked and the DELO site shows the same .8% Ash content as the Delvac, so there is that. Rotello T-1 also works and a friend of mine buys that when he finds it on sale, so I know of at least three and I've heard of a couple other brands that still have the equivalent CF2 oil available. Driving a 2-stroke today is an exercise in planning ahead for things that will need replenishment or replacing. But they sure do sound good and that's worth the price of admission and any little inconveniences.
-
Donaldson makes Detroit filters.
-
Luvr has it Wix or Napa (made by Wix)
-
So I have about 1500 miles on my completely rebuilt 8v92TA and Leid wants me to change the break in oil out for Mobil Delvac 1240. I just ordered two 5 gal pails of the oil and now need to get a filter. I want the best for my engine since it’s basically brand new so what do you recommend for an oil filter? And part numbers too please!
Here is the Baldwin # 1970 if you want to cross reference ;) I use Delvac 1240 also.
-
NAPA filter and Mobil delvac 1240, less oil usage, dripping and stays cleaner a little longer...
-
Are you serious Van. Delo 100-1/2 is much more suited for guys like us. What will people say. No Seriously what would they say..... ;)
-
You guys ever read this from a DD Manual of yesterdays a little blurry
-
What does tire pressure have to do with Oil Filters oh wise one, LOL :)
-
Detroit Diesel did say some years ago it was OK to use multi-grade oils and many have used that technical bulletin to justify using multi-grade oils and I have had several very heated exchanges with guys looking at those DATED and Superseded technical bulletins where DD finally came out with updated Bulletins based on high time/mileage usage customers based on field breakdowns and excessive wear reports. They eventually rescinded their recommendation for ANY multi-grade oils to be used in any 2-stroke engine. It all stems from the intake ports in the liners and the lack of proper lubrication as the rings pass by causing excessive wear and failures.
Also the multi-grade oils will find a way to leak out as vapors or dribbles from any and all possible routes due to the fact the engine block is positively pressurized by the blower and forces all fluid out at every point, even under screws and bolts without very good seals in place. That's why they all get a coating of oil quickly as the oil is forced out as vapors and condenses on the exterior. Multi-grade oil will cause blue smoke that won't clear up as you drive, it also dribbles oil excessively from many places on the engine causing leaks and leaving spots on the ground. We've all seen this and sometimes it's not normal, but caused by the wrong oil being used. Some think that they leak like this normally, but they don't that much, unless the oil is a contributing factor.
I've attached the updated DD bulletins and be sure to check out the last paragraph on the Delo 400 where it says not to use the Delo 400 in 2-strokes. Also a Chevron pdf with the DELO 100 specs showing the specific indication DELO 100 is made for use in 2-stroke engines.
-
LOL they had a 100,000 mile oil change to that liked to have broke Detroit ,me I am not a Delo 100 fan it ok if you change it every 3 or 4000 miles after that the 2 strokes develop a apatite for the stuff, Mobil was the factory oil for Detroit and still is
-
. . .what do you recommend for an oil filter? And part numbers too please!
Scott -
All you need to know is right here in this .pdf file:
-
Thanks Guys,
Just thought maybe one filter brand would bubble to the top in all the discussion. As for oil choice, I am far from uninitiated. This is my second coach conversion and I just completed what was a basically solo engine swap job in my coach and I swapped the engine literally three times. I've seen my old engine torn down to the block and inspected literally every part of its inside bits. I have run multi grade, filtered waste oil (black diesel) and straight weight in my former coach and kept track of how it behaved and consumed under those conditions. I've used Walmart 40 weight, Tractor Supply 40w, Delo 400, Shell Rotella, and Mobil Delvac 1240. I can assure you that after all that experimentation on my old bus (6v92 Mech) I will only run Mobile Delvac 1240 in my new engine. And frankly, the amazing guys who actually rebuilt it from the ground up told me to only run Mobil Delvac 1240 in it. They have their reasons and since I concur, that's what I'll run. When you spend $30,000 rebuilding and swapping and shipping your engine, feel free to use 0w 30 for all I care. It's your money. lol. And I don't care what Detroit says cliff, I have run multi grade before in the two stroke and it drinks it as fast as I drink a Dr. Pepper on a 100F degree day. I also am the guy running TranSynd in my allison tranny. $700 to fill the trans with that stuff but it's worth it for me. I'm also the guy who removed his trans cooler coolant heat exchanger and went with a huge Hayden trans fluid cooler instead. I march to a different drummer and it works for me. Cliff and I agree on pretty much everything in life and have set and chewed the fat a few times at his place in Arizona. He's just trying to raise cane lol!
-
Thanks Guys,
Just thought maybe one filter brand would bubble to the top in all the discussion. As for oil choice, I am far from uninitiated. This is my second coach conversion and I just completed what was a basically solo engine swap job in my coach and I swapped the engine literally three times. I've seen my old engine torn down to the block and inspected literally every part of its inside bits. I have run multi grade, filtered waste oil (black diesel) and straight weight in my former coach and kept track of how it behaved and consumed under those conditions. I've used Walmart 40 weight, Tractor Supply 40w, Delo 400, Shell Rotella, and Mobil Delvac 1240. I can assure you that after all that experimentation on my old bus (6v92 Mech) I will only run Mobile Delvac 1240 in my new engine. And frankly, the amazing guys who actually rebuilt it from the ground up told me to only run Mobil Delvac 1240 in it. They have their reasons and since I concur, that's what I'll run. When you spend $30,000 rebuilding and swapping and shipping your engine, feel free to use 0w 30 for all I care. It's your money. lol. And I don't care what Detroit says cliff, I have run multi grade before in the two stroke and it drinks it as fast as I drink a Dr. Pepper on a 100F degree day. I also am the guy running TranSynd in my allison tranny. $700 to fill the trans with that stuff but it's worth it for me. I'm also the guy who removed his trans cooler coolant heat exchanger and went with a huge Hayden trans fluid cooler instead. I march to a different drummer and it works for me. Cliff and I agree on pretty much everything in life and have set and chewed the fat a few times at his place in Arizona. He's just trying to raise cane lol!
Noticed I said a DD manual from a long time back we do agree on Delvac 1240,look back on the board for years I was always in trouble about saying Delvac 1240 was the best for a 2 stroke lol no engine leaves this place without Delvac 1240
-
I concur completely with Delvac 1240 as well. DELO 100, Rotello T-1, maybe others I'm not aware of with the key of course being the CF-2 Low Ash straight 40wt (mineral oil??) formulation.
I actually have a place near me in Long Beach, a specialized oil and lubrication distributor, that formulates and makes their own custom blend that's totally the same as CF2 DELO 100 etc. for a killer price that can't be beat. I buy all my oil and filters from them (Baldwin, but they'll get anything) and it's a great resource to have.
Instead of the normal $20 or more per gallon, I only pay $10 so that's where I go and I make sure to tell everyone around here about them for those needing a source for DD 2-stroke oil. Of course they have all the other multi-grades for only $9 Gallon which is what I put in my Cummins Crown. Life is good with a low cost oil source. We all know how much it can cost for an oil change.
-
The old Detroit 2-stroke oil question all over again. And no, all oils are NOT the same when it comes to the Detroit 2-strokes. I sure hope you're kidding.
Lol Yeah I was kidding, Clifford got me using 1240 years and years ago on our beloved Whizz Banger's. Things were a little slow I thought so I figured I'd get some juices flowing ;) ;) Welcome to the Forum.
Van.
-
I've posted this before, but it's worth repeating. I had always used Delo 100 40w and considered it just as good as anything else. A couple of years ago I tried Delvac 1240. My oil consumption dropped significantly. I still find it hard to believe it could make that much of a difference.
On the positive side for Delo 100 is that since you need to add more oil, you could say that you have more fresh oil in the system at any given time.
-
Van. Well it worked. I figured you were kidding since most folks here are up on what it means to own and operate a true heavy duty REAL bus/coach and the engines in them. That is most definitely not the case on this other school bus oriented site I haunt where they don't have a clue, for the most part, on anything any bigger than a Van or SUV. It's a challenge for sure to make them understand they are dealing with a whole different universe and level of engineering and requirements for when they buy even the most rudimentary of school buses with the usual medium-duty engine and drive-line stuff. I usually just wait around until someone with a Crown or a Coach has questions and then I try to help them. Most are pretty severely challenged by the whole concept of Air Brakes for instance, really, and if they gave it any thought some are so naive they would think that if they drove off a cliff the air brakes would be able to save them... That's just for starters, it gets more entertaining for other subjects too.
I must admit to not having used Delvac 1240 and just used the DELO 100, but I am very intrigued about the lower oil consumption seen with the 1240. I have a complication due to my use now of the custom blended CF-2 equivalent to 1240/100 I've been buying and using for a while now. I'm not sure I have any way to gauge if it's as good as the 1240, but it seems to be very good and I don't use very much oil at all, plus at $10 Gallon I can't complain and as long as I know I'm getting the superior protection of the CF-2 rating I'll just have to keep on wondering, and taking my savings to the bank.......oh wait, what am I saying, the bus(es) hear that and then break something so I have to spend money on them. Have you all noticed how that happens. We fleet owner/operators used to say that the damn things talk at night to each other and whenever they knew we were gaining a little money ahead in the bank they would conspire to have something fail so we had to spend money to fix it, bastards. Some things just never change.
-
Scott how's that bad boy running with that rebuilt engine in it. Hope okay. Any issues? When are you and the Family coming back down to San Antone area maybe we can meet up this time. Last time my Prevost was in to Stewart Stevenson San Antonio getting the blower R&R'ed and everything was in a rush. :^
-
Yeah cliff I know you’re a delvac guy. You’re the first person to have gotten me on that train years ago and I’m glad. I have to yank your chain because it just seems like the right thing to do lol.
As for the engine swap,
The new engine runs absolutely perfect. Literally perfect no issues at all. It is set to just around 550hp according to Leid who had it on the dyno. I asked them to turn it down just a hair so it was. When Leid builds an 8v92TA they do it well. I am actually currently having an issue where it’s running a bit too cool now. If it’s a cool day it runs all day in the high 160°F range. If it’s a hot 90° day it will run around 178° constantly. It’s amazing actually. The pull is really unexpectedly strong every time I am on the throttle. Absolutely no lack of power. Up until a few weeks ago, it had amazing power but I couldn’t stop it well. Had some braking issues but those were fixed finally by another shop here in town and it now stops on a dime. We’ve finally dialed in most things on the operational side of the coach and I’m very happy with it. Still needing to find a higher CFM air filter setup because the ecolite I’m using isn’t enough according to Leid and I do indeed get a small amount of black smoke on heavy throttle acceleration. So I’m trying to figure out how to find either a disposable air filter that has 2000cfm or some other solution. Anyway, very happy with it and look forward to many years of enjoyment with the new engine and braking system.
-
If you can't get a filter with the necessary CFM, could you run two smaller ones in parallel to get there? It might take some re-configuring of the air route, but it would get you to the necessary air supply.
-
If you can't get a filter with the necessary CFM, could you run two smaller ones in parallel to get there? It might take some re-configuring of the air route, but it would get you to the necessary air supply.
He can get a ECO filter with the right CFM he may need to buy a size adapter for the turbo side, I would not try and use 2 smaller filters on that engine anytime you use a fitting in the air intake the CFM goes down
-
Cliff I’m already using the highest CFM ecolite they sell. Leid tells me I need more air yet. Brand new filter will still pull the filter minder down into the red zone not that I have much faith in those. Richard, I don’t really have a huge amount of room in there for twin filters. I’ve seriously considered it, but just can’t make it work.
-
On the second filter housing...
Don't let symetry and OCD get in the way of a creative install.
Saw one once that the second cannister was tucked into the other side corner, and had giant domestic sewer piping for intake pipes. Nice curves at the blending Y, and then a single on to the turbo.
The two cannisters don't have to be the same size either. It's all about more filter material, so the air can get through, again, let the imagination fly unfettered, it matters not what it looks like...
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
-
Cliff I’m already using the highest CFM ecolite they sell. Leid tells me I need more air yet. Brand new filter will still pull the filter minder down into the red zone not that I have much faith in those. Richard, I don’t really have a huge amount of room in there for twin filters. I’ve seriously considered it, but just can’t make it work.
I have been using 2000cfm Eco filters for years Scott I just checked the Parker (RACOR) site and it shows 17 different sizes in the 2000cfm ECO series
-
@Scott
"Brand new filter will still pull the filter minder down into the red zone not that I have much faith in those."
Could that possibly be the culprit? Have you looked further into the accuracy of it's function? Just saying...
-
@Scott
"Brand new filter will still pull the filter minder down into the red zone not that I have much faith in those."
Could that possibly be the culprit? Have you looked further into the accuracy of it's function? Just saying...
A 8v92TA will pull 11.5 inches of water at 2100 rpm,I try for 10 inches measure it and see what it is pulling, filter minders are ok but not accurate,a lot of time since the minders come in different inches people install the wrong one without checking
-
Scott have you seen Wayne Schells double filter setup?
Maybe he will chime in...
-
Here Scott straight from DD when you use a Y,JMO but I would not go the 2 filter route on your 8v92,I can post you the restrictions for different sizes of piping 7 inch is the standard for your 8v92 @ 550 hp
-
Had same problem with getting enough air to my 855. With a new filter the minder would go to yellow. Added a second filter and all is good.
Wayne
-
BW: I might have to do just this:
Cliff: I’m running a 2000 CFM filter but it’s just not quite enough. Leid noticed I’m getting some black smoke on accerlation. Boost is 26psi so that’s all good. He said during dyno testing it wasn’t blowing smoke and it shouldn’t. He’s really wanting me to try to get more air in there.
I like your twin setup rusty. So you don’t max out your filter minder now?
-
Before the dual filter setup I could change to a new filter and the minder would start to show yellow from the get go. With the dual filter I have yet to see the minder move. The 855 is known to smoke a little under normal operations but with the dual filter it it less. I can tell by the smoke film on my toad.
Wayne
-
Rusty can you post more photos of your twin filter setup?
-
Scott I am not sure what you want to see. I will post a couple of other pictures. The way I did it was first fine a place big enough to but a second filter. Then go to a junk yard or get an eco or similar filter that will work. Get as big as that will fit the space but size is not that important we just want to find a little more air. Then pipe the new filter into the existing piping. I used a tee a wye would be better but air will take the path of least resistance and will draw from the second filter if the first filter is not supplying enough or visa vera. I was able to mount the second filter behind a screen to the outside so I could get somewhat cleaner air. Hope this helps
Wayne
-
On the oil filter, I'm not seeing any Wix talk or numbers.
The Napa should be same numbering system as Wix and Wix and Baldwin probably the two best filters you can get.
-
Cummins Fleetguard are good filters,they are the only engine manufacture that makes their own filters
-
Running two air filters on a 8V-92TA is good since the single air filter is huge. Good Luck, TomC