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Bus Discussion => Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) => Topic started by: Tedsoldbus on February 18, 2022, 02:39:18 PM
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Rita calls our bus "Debt", and although it was her idea, (I think to get Debt out of the driveway), we just put up what I call the bus barn. (She calls it the Shrine for Debt.). Being a team player and the fact I love her very much, I did not fight her wish to get the bus out of the driveway....
It is a Carolina Carport on steroids to keep it affordable. I put the door offset so I can put the fishing skiff and other things in the front of the building and off to the right side for the winter. It is 26 wide and 45 long. We pour the apron next week since it is going to warm up, and will probably put a shed roof off the right side this fall if lumber costs ever go down. Power and water are at the end of the driveway and we will get both in a month or two. The power will come into the building on the left side right about where the panel and 50 amp will be. The 50 amp will be right next to the bay door where I need to plug in. I have ideas of lighting and sockets but solicit ideas from all, especially those who have done it and have a list: "I wish I had put in "X" if I had it to do again.".
My electrician comes in about 2 weeks. I am renting him a lift for 2 days. Mostly because I like him and partly because some wire will have to go in the rafters. I need to get the electricity as done as I can because the spray foam guys come in mid April. I was told these buildings drip from the roof if you don't spray them and it tightens up and insulates the building. The building is mostly for storage and we are trying to save a little money so it will just have a frost free water bib outside of the building but no inside plumbing. It will have an electric oil filled radiator with a fan behind it to blow hot air under the bus when it gets cold but no other heat.
What am I not thinking of?
Thanks guys
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Lots of lights, on multiple switches, so you can put a little or a lot, lots of plugs down the walls, on lots of breakers.
Piping some air lines in copper around the perimeter comes in handy, along with the robust shop air compressor, and box the noisy (born of unwed parents) up to keep the noise down, or put it outside completely.
A bus barn is a lovely thing!
Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
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Great tip on the compressor. Thanks. Will set it up to put it under the shed roof outside.
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Spray foam is nice if its in the budget. Metal buildings get frost on the inside of the roof and like to drip. If you use standard fluorescent eight foot lights use the HO or cold start so they will come on at any temp. I myself haven't started changing over my shop and building lights to LED. I do have LED dusk to dawn yard lights. Plenty of 110 and 220 outlets is a must. You might want a welder some day. I am a 3/4 inch copper air pipe line on one wall of my shop it handy. I have my shop compressor on the cold side of my shop its nice not to listen to it run. You will enjoy the new building.
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If you can lay hands on some pallet racking that can be very handy.
Jim
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Metal Building that looks a fair distance away from the house. So also consider power to point that you will have an external WiFi link pointed at the house and a access point inside the building.
Of course you could also have some Ethernet cable ran and do power over Ethernet instead.
I suggest a NanoStation & AirCube AC as I sort of use the same setup with my bus for RV park WiFi.
There's a good video on setting this up at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGLwwREDzNQ&t=898s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGLwwREDzNQ&t=898s)
We deployed that same setup at a friends place in his barn and serviced RV's for a get togethers by installing the AirCube in the window.
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Had not planned wi fi there. Barn is 1/4 mile from the house. Again I am thinking mostly storage. Keeping the pine pollen off, mudd daubers out, sun off the 40 year old paint, not sitting in the driveway when it gets below zero like this morning... etc
I will bring it to the house a few days before a trip so the Rita and do all the Rita things. Spray foam is spendy. About 5.5K for the entire building. Running the utilities up the driveway and the dirt work and slab are required for whatever type of construction we chose so that zeros out. But the building and foam were 1/3 the cost of doing wood! Now I just have to try not to throw up when I buy the PVC for the water line. A 10 foot pipe that was 17 dollars two years ago is $48 now! THAT was a surprise I hadn't counted on! Petroleum product or what? I chee wa wa...
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Put in LED lighting (8 footers like the flourescent) Besides costing less to run they give SIGNIFICANTLY more lighting.I replaced all shop flourescents with LED and the difference was AMAZING.Also shouldn't have to EVER replace them (given the likely amount of use it will get)
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Rita picked those up for my birthday....since the barn wasn't enough of a present. I am putting probably too many sockets. I expect extension cords still work. We figured out this morning about the noise of the compressor. It will be outside the building in a little shelter. Also picked up on sale at Wally World this morning a shop light that sits on the floor but articulates in case I need a bright light on something. It is LED and about blinds you to look at it! I think that is about all a guy can buy any more is LED?
I was not going to paint the whole floor but thought it a good idea to put something down from the apron to past where there will be leaks since oil and trani fluid like to soak into concrete. Maybe 20 feet or so. Any suggestions on what to put down that rinses off well?
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concrete sealer and epoxy floor paint
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Please tell us that the roof has some type of vapor barrier under the metal.
If not your going to have problems down the road. Maybe not in your lifetime, but metal roofing will rust if spray foam is sprayed directly on it. Metal sweats and that condensation has to have somewhere to go. We always put a vapor barrier (of the customers choice) like double bubble, house wrap or vinyl back insulation on the purlins BEFORE the metal goes on.
It's hard to put it on after the metal is attached. You could run it between the trusses, but you will still have some exposed that will create a little moisture.
;D BK ;D
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Had not planned wi fi there. Barn is 1/4 mile from the house.
If it's line of sight or light brush 1/4 mile is very doable just have a nanostation unit on each end, could do 3-4 miles with that setup..
Maybe add alarms and security camera's?
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Built my Barn before I built the house. Insulated 40' x 60' with 14' x 14' doors. Wife kinda freaked out but what the hay. ;D
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Those square doors make it look much smaller. LOL
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I showed Muldoon Man's shop to Rita. I got "the look". So I said what I always say "whaaaat?". She said "He has 2 doors which means 2 buses. You have ONE 14 foot door." I love her, but she is from Jersey.
Safe neighborhood with lots of big dogs and watchful neighbors but will have one camera inside and one out. Sign says "Comb your hair, Try to look Nice.." and has a camera picture on the bottom of the sign.
I'm sure Busted Knuckle is correct but I got 3 bids. Two of the vendors said metal drips and that I needed to do vapor barrier on the roof, or foam. They said water forms due to change of temp and foam on metal does not allow air against the metal so it can not condense moisture. I guess we will find out. Well...not me. I am 65.
I hear ya Fred (s), but I am low tech. I will take my 5 CD player and all my bluegrass and country CDs to the barn.
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BK you mean the Rafters not the purlins right? Metal goes on top of the Rafters. Purlins are horizontal bracing through the trusses or 1/3 way down from the ridge under rafters at right angles to them with bracing under them holding up the roof load to a beam or bearing wall to keep them from sagging. :^
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Those square doors make it look much smaller. LOL
Wish I'd a sprung for a 60' x 80'. It's already full. Old pic when i had the XL.
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always go larger than you think you'll need. If you have room to lengthen in future, go some wider when build. Lot easier to lengthen in future. Consider room along sides. Normal to have stuff stashed along walls. Allow for 30 to 36 inches long walls plus 5 to 8 feet between stash and coach on each side.
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Our is 50x60 which is a good size for us. North 60’ side has 12’ mezzanine all the way. Bus parks on south side. Middle isle is our functioning shop/ garage
20x14 door 16’ ceiling.
Stick frame building NOT a pole barn
Can’t find any pictures of it atm
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Ours is 20×60 under A/C roof with a pit and a 12' × 60' lean-to on each long side. 10' ×12' OH door on each end.
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Ted they maybe telling you correct, I don't know. I DO KNOW that IF WE BUILD IT, it gets house wrap, double bubble, or vinyl backed insulation. Even if they say they are going to have it spray foamed our crew puts something under the metal before the metal gets screwed down.
BK you mean the Rafters not the purlins right? Metal goes on top of the Rafters. Purlins are horizontal bracing through the trusses or 1/3 way down from the ridge under rafters at right angles to them with bracing under them holding up the roof load to a beam or bearing wall to keep them from sagging. :^
Dave around here EVERYBODY calls the boards running across the top of the trusses PURLINS, I don't know if it's correct or not. I just know that's what ALL the carpenters, suppliers and everyone I have heard call them.
:D BK :D
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BK tell them to look it up in a builders book. I was a Building Contractor for 45 years and it has always been this. But I have also learned over the years that different states and even regines calls thing different names because that 1 guy who didn't know the name made up something or heard a name of something and didn't understand where it went and continued to call it that.
Example in Cali and most other state they call concrete structural supports in the ground Footings. In Colorado they call them Footers. But in most states the top of a roof is always a rafter and the Purlin supports the middle of it.
https://www.homenish.com/parts-of-a-roof-truss/
Now if they ran 2x 4's or 2x2's across the top of the rafters those would also be known as purlins say for tile roof etc. at right angles to them.
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Ok let's invite some European members to start talking metric to this thread LOL!!!
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Dave5Cs, don't pick on Busted Knuckle. I have seen pictures of him. I think he can take you...
I never pick a fight with a guy who's arms are bigger than my chest.
And thanks BK on the barrier. Like I said since you build them in similar climate to me I expect you are correct. The vendors were trying to sell me the barrier because they sell it. Had to find a different guy to do foam. Since I didn't have them put the barrier on before the roof, per lings, (and rafters to keep everyone happy), already have roofing screwed to them. so I am "screwed" now on barrier before foam. Just going to have him blast the roof with 3 inches and sides with 1 1/2 and hope for the best.
Keep the pictures coming guys. I think everyone thinking of doing this enjoys them. Just dig out that 35 digital so your phone does not post them sideways.
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go all steel...Wood Trusses are just a wasted space. Plus a steel building will sell for much more later. I built both over the years.. Then realized it was less stress to work for someone else..I do recomend a opaque ridge cap will let you have so natural lite in building. Ceco makes a nice bar joice truss building with 16ft bays and 2 by wood purlins and girts fitted in to clips. For info only.. Bob
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Agree with Bob, good idea.
Ted; nope not afraid of BK, he's as old as me hey maybe more, lol. He and I were to fight we would have to take it easy getting up if we sit to long,lol
But I here he's got a mean dog that steals full slbs of Bacon all by his self.... :^
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Dave5Cs, don't pick on Busted Knuckle. I have seen pictures of him. I think he can take you...
I am getting confused are you planning on building the bus barn or is it already built and we are talking the best way to do upgrades?
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I like my Morton building. Wood trusses and stand up attic. The stuff I store up there is at edges and ends so as not to test the strength of trusses. They erected the building in 7 days. They don't fool around. Back in mid 80's cost 23k. Shell, first ever large coupla, walk in door, and 2 12x12 electric oh doors. 48x60x15' ceiling
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go all steel...Wood Trusses are just a wasted space. Plus a steel building will sell for much more later. I built both over the years.. Then realized it was less stress to work for someone else..I do recomend a opaque ridge cap will let you have so natural lite in building. Ceco makes a nice bar joice truss building with 16ft bays and 2 by wood purlins and girts fitted in to clips. For info only.. Bob
When we built ours, 2016/2017, wood saved us a lot of $$$, just from the simple fact that we didnt have to run conduit for wiring.
Dad is building a 80x160 right now its a steel building that will make a nice shop.
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Our bus barn is a culmination of skimmed construction materials over the coarse of a good portion of a life time.
It turned out to be more of a commercial structure and may even be able to out last the pressure treated log home we live in.
It's on a 6" #5 rebar reinforced slab, full pit, structural metal framing (18 & 16 gauge) with steel bar joists at 6' on center for roof support. 6" round steel columns at four corners and two self supported 4"x4" steel columns in each 60' wall self supported all on 6'x6'x2' rebar reinforced concrete pads, The entire building is cladded with 16oz (per sq. Ft.) FRP 2" corrugated casing with 4+" spray foam on ceiling (underside of roof) 4" fiberglass on walls. We have less than $10,000 in it and it's heaven in retirement. An automatic OH door on each long end with screened enclosure when doors are open - no bugs, snakes, nor birds inside and a great cross flow breeze all day long - at least this time of year. Rant over - carry on.
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Ted -
Water & Electric?
Check :^
Dump Station for the yucky stuff?
Oops??
RJ
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RV park close and only charges $10 to dump. Septic is 6K to add. Can add septic later but didn't want to run out of money before I run out of building. Always more to buy than you think when building. Like 3 big and easy to grab fire extinguishers etc etc...
But got some good ideas from the gang, so this was worth a post...
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We have a diy septic setup for our bus barn, in fact they're old original holding tanks from the bus to catch the solids prior to the leech field. No issue since 2012. If we have a serious dump we use the real 1500 gal septic for the house. A macerator pump will let you pump waste to any toilet easily. Fwiw.
Our fully finished basement's waste drops into a large concrete tank lower than the basement grade and gets pumped every 75 gal drawdown to the large septic. Yep when we pioneered our place over 40 years ago - Dad was superintendent of water & sewer in Hallandale FL - very convenient to say the least...
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A macerator pump will let you pump waste to any toilet easily.
That sounds like a very good idea. Though I am finding that unless I am doing a lot of Boone docking I make it sooner or later to either an RV park or highway rest stop that lets me dump.
Though hey if you are using the bus as a mini hotel for visitors (good thing they are 1/4 mile away)! It shouldn't be a concern...
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Nobody will stay in the bus at the barn. If we need the bus for sleeping space we will bring it to the house where we have full hook ups. Our lake is the rearing lake for Stripers that go the the state hatchery, so Nazi rules on septic. No holding tanks allowed. Must do full fledged septic for a house on raw land that is on the lake, even if just to dump an RV. But I am glad there are rules to protect our watershed. We like our Stripers.....