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LED's are nice for the driver but suck for on coming traffic and coming up behind you,some states are cracking down on those, here you get a repair ticket with so many days to dim the lights and I like that in the desert a little light goes a long way
Black tank seperate from grey tank, black tank vents through the roof, grey tank vents under the kitchen sink.
Regular rv toilet.
With that said, I'd try the usual things first. Remove the vent cap on the roof and make sure that the vent is clear. It doesn't take long for a wasp nest to block a 2" pipe.

The shower I'm guessing is going to be a clogged drain. Hair would be my guess. Try pulling the trap if you have access.
Black tank seperate from grey tank, black tank vents through the roof, grey tank vents under the kitchen sink.
Regular rv toilet.
In my experience 50-50 is usually 90-10. Lol
Like I said, buy a volt meter and check voltage at bulbs before you start taking things apart. If you change to other headlights, go with led. They are far brighter and draw less current.
There is only the 2 anyways so you have good odds it is right
If my reading of the manual is correct, the headlights that came stock in the bus have the following power draw:
    Low beam:    37.5w / 55w
    High beam:   37.5w

I've been in touch with DanialSternLighting and they do have modern lens/housing assemblies with replaceable bulbs that will work on 24v. Sounds like they would be a drop in replacement, at least for the most part. However, the bulbs run 70w each, which is nearly twice what my wiring is designed to handle. Guess that could be handled by installing a few relays and heavier gauge wiring from the 24v power tap to the relay and on to the headlights.

My first step will be more basic - if the weather holds today I plan to pull the relay/resister panel and check all the connections, as well as check the ground connections. All the other lights (clearance, etc.) run bright and clear, so I'm hoping the problem with the headlights is just a weak connection or sticking relay somewhere.
I put in 28 volt quartz halogen lights.  The lights themselves are normal Cibie lights, and the bulbs are available from Daniel Stern.  About as good as bus lights are going to get.  That said, these look very interesting - 9V to 32V, DOT approved, these would be the high/low beams, not the high beams.  That is a very common motorcycle application, you may not find (or need) the equivalent high only beams.
They seem dinner compared to current headlights. Take an accurate voltmeter and check voltage at headlamps before spending time looking elsewhere. Since your coach is in such great condition, I expect the option is to go with different lamps. I haven't found any led headlamps in 5  3/4 diameter out there in 24 volt. Other sizes, yes. One option is to convert headlamps to 12 volt and use halogen or led. Changing to 12 volt on Buffaloes is easy.  Where those relays are in under driver's compartment, GM had a plug and play resistor panel that enabled the option of using 12 volt headlamps. You install panel, plug it in and replace headlamps with 12 volt units.
The only question I have is that different bulbs will draw different currents affecting voltage at bulbs, especially LEDs. Probably worth a try if Luke has a take off resistor panel.
Of course, this is assuming you don't have a votage issue with current headlamps.
Bus Topics ( click here for quick start! ) / Re: Any help for dim headlights?
« Last post by luvrbus on October 22, 2018, 07:57:10 PM »
We always solved that problem on Eagles which were crappy too by adding relays for each light.If I recall the 28v head light are 60/80 watts a drop of a 1/2 to 1 volt will make a huge difference in brightness.I saw buses before some one had installed all four lamps the same model and number on the 4 light systems it sucked on bright 
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