Shameless plug

[Don Fairchild]

Guy's;

As some of you know, i run a shop and rebuild both two stroke and four stroke engine's. I have a customers truck in my shop that we upgraded the compute from DDECII to DDEC IV, added jakes,changed the trans from a 9 speed to a 10 speed autoshift. We also did a brake job for him. When I tried to remove the lug nuts from the duels I could'nt get them off. i had to bring in a tire guy with a 1 inch gun and we had to really rettle the lug nut's off, when we tried to remove the thimbles there were three that would not come off. We had to pound on them with a 20lb hammer and bend the studes over the remove the thinbles.Can you imagine what would happen if he were on the road at o-dark thirty and half way between somewhare and nowhere. please watch your tire guy's when they install your tires. don't let them rattle the nuts on, and if you are running wheel simulators use anti seize on the nut's and thimbles to keep the moisture out of the threads.

Don

[Happycampersrus]

I work on Heavy Equipment for a living also. When I bought my bus from a guy in Conn. I drove it home with no problems. I went to remove the rears I got my 3/4" IR gun out and it is stout (trust me) 1100lbs off 1000lbs on, But it wouldn't touch those nuts. I don't know what the genuis used to put them on with. It must have been a heck of an impact gun to get that kinda torque. There really wasn't that much rust either so I know it was torque.

I don't think folks understand what torque specs are or what they are for. Also Don has the right idea to use never seize or a light coat of grease on the threads. DON'T use it were the nuts contact the wheel as this will alter the torque reading if yours are suppose to be torqued dry. Yes there is a difference between ways that wheels are mounted.

Dale

[ChuckMC8]

Don is right-

   Everyone should have a 3/4" drive torque wrench to do your wheels. Improper torque will crack Alcoa alumium wheels, one of the major reasons they end up in the scrap pile.........I bought mine on ebay for $75.........its also a helluva pullbar, since the handle is nearly 4' long.
Here's my pal Kevin Munch checking my lugs a few years ago......

[kyle4501]

I watched ebay for over a year before I was able to get the torque multiplier. Man what a tool!  But then again, I'm a tool junkie

Mine is a 10 : 1 ratio & uses a standard 1" extension & sockets, and I can use my 1/2" torque wrench with it, so I can use it for other tough nuts.

That is the easiest way to torque the wheel nuts on/ off without an impact gun or qualified tire guy.


What some wrench monkeys don't understand is that studs can pop off while you're driving if you over tighten them. You can also distort the hub. The torque is specified for a reason.

[NJT5047]

I got one too!  Things are expensive.   I've had the multiplier laying around for years.  Finally decided to buy a bus to go with it.   I've had all wheels off and on using the multiplier.   They are handy on the road...if you can find a way to jack the bus.   Jacking is another issue....especially on the steering axle with a flat...or on dirt.   Requires some planning.
Tape up the sockets and ratchet heads if you have nice wheels.  They'll booger up a wheel if (when) it drops onto the wheel.  Some duct tape will save your alloy wheels. 
JR

[TomC]

This is especially sensitive to Budd type wheels (nut piloted wheels with inner and outer nuts).  If the outer nut is frozen and the inner loose, you better hope your tire man has the special tool that can hold the outer nut while you try to tighten the inner enough so it stays still while the outer is hopefully successfully loosened.  Hub piloted wheels (single nut for both wheels) are not a problem, except if they are too warm when trying to remove them-they can expand to the point where they will be very tightly sealed against the hub.  Usually just waiting for them to cool off is enough.  Good Luck, TomC

[Busted Knuckle]

Don I really think you mis-titled this subject as it is very informative and good info to know! I fail to see where it is a shameless plug (such as the one below and that I'm fixing to post to bring my bash back to front page! LOL! ) BK

We gonna have a Moo'n good time at the "TN Fall Bus Bash at Knuckle's 10/26-31/07 
now that's shamless pluging! LOL! BK

[NJT5047]

Chuck, (Sorry Don, don't mean to hijack the thread),  may I ask where you found the long streetside window awning?  I've looked around but have not seen anything that long.  Have not inquired about having them custom made.   My coach is similar to yours with two Pen windows streetside.   I have an A&E on the curbside...would yours happen to be an A&E?   I'd like to match the awnings up.
Camping world sells the same unit still..my awning came from Camping world.   
I'm planning on adding a gutter/awning rail combo to the area above the windows and would like to know what sort of dimensions the awnings require. 
Thanks, JR

[Don Fairchild]

Bk;

I have been cused at so many times in the past for some of my post's that I really have to think about it for day's before I post.
I do like to give a plug about the shop here in Bakersfield from time to time,but I don't want to over do it and get run off.

Jr, I don't think you hi-jacked any thing. If we don't ask we can't learn.

I am going home now you guys have a wonderful week end, I wont be back till Monday.

PS. BK wish I could get to your bus bash, but I don't have my eagle safe enough to be on the road yet. Maybe next year.

Don

[ChuckMC8]

JR, They are Zip-Dee, and this whole set of awnings came from an 30' Airstream travel trailer. I had to modify 2 of the awnings to fit (cut down) to fit the BR indows. I'd bet that Bob's RV Salvage just over the line in Fla would have some, he has a bunch'o stuff.
   The big spring in the main pass side awning was broken, I called the zip dee folks and they sent me a new one FOC. What a deal is that!   Jr, Let me know if you need measurements, etc.

Here's the number for Bob"s RV Salvage  386-454-5733
Just west of I-75 going south into fla. Bob is a nice guy and good to deal with-
HTH

[NJT5047]

JR, They are Zip-Dee, and this whole set of awnings came from an 30' Airstream travel trailer. I had to modify 2 of the awnings to fit (cut down) to fit the BR indows. I'd bet that Bob's RV Salvage just over the line in Fla would have some, he has a bunch'o stuff.

Thanks Chuck, I've got the dimensions for the width, what I'm looking for is the rail  mounting height vs the roll. There is no trim above my windows...I didn't like the big NJT gutter system and removed it before painting.  Want something "RV" looking...smallish gutter. 
I've decided to call A&E and see if they could supply matching window awnings to my existing 21' awning.   Really like to keep them all the same.  I suppose a nice used arms and roller could be used with new fabric too?  May save a couple of bucks there.  We have a huge RV salvage place in Liberty, NC.   I checked them out once before...amazing how much damage is inflicted on S&S in minor accidents.   There may be some A&E stuff over there. 
I would assume that the arms and rollers for window awnings are about half the size of the patio awning?
Best, JR

[Dale MC8]

Hey JR; I have mentioned it in another post, but think it bears repeating, think about another Patio Awning on the street side. I've had a couple S&S's I've done that to and if you look closely at the picture on the left, you can see I've done the same thing on my coach. There are trade-offs; Patio's take more room to pull out (but if you have the room, create lots more shade) and the arms also take more room. On the other hand, you have the option of parking head in or head out ans still have shade. Not to mention how welcome the shade on that side is on the rare times you have to work on something on that side of the bus.

Lotsa words to say this-is-my-way

FWIW

Dale MC8