Author Topic: Pictures - Changing the Engine Cradle for 20K Hitch  (Read 14866 times)

Offline rv_safetyman

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Re: Pictures - Changing the Engine Cradle for 20K Hitch
« Reply #15 on: February 27, 2012, 10:56:37 AM »
buswarrior, I always stand in amazement of your phraseology and analogies!!! ;D ;)  As is almost always the case, you hit the nail on the head, or cracked the egg, or whatever :D

Yes, our buses have a pretty substantial GVWR.  However almost all DO NOT have a GCVWR (gross combined weight rating.  Most have an "arse end" design that will only accommodate the engine/transmission.  Hanging a bunch of weight way out past the engine can really do a number on the structure/suspension capacity.

One of the things I always forget to say is that the 1-2K hanging on the engine cradle is only part of the picture.  The other big component is the dynamic loading of the tongue load as the bus/trailer goes over the bumps and swells on the highway/roads/parking lot approaches/etc.

When I write about my concerns, I often mention that my other concern is the consideration of degradation of structural strength of the engine cradle system due to corrosion and fatigue. 

It has been said a couple of times, but I want to emphasize that my reason for posting my concerns is not DKO's situation - he handled the situation very well.  It is to make sure that the readers of this thread understand the implications trying to pull large trailers behind their buses - that may not be able (or designed) handle the loads correctly.

Jim
Jim Shepherd
Evergreen, CO
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Bus Project details: http://beltguy.com/Bus_Project/busproject.htm
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Offline RJ

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Re: Pictures - Changing the Engine Cradle for 20K Hitch
« Reply #16 on: February 27, 2012, 11:49:40 AM »
One of the things I always forget to say is that the 1-2K hanging on the engine cradle is only part of the picture.  The other big component is the dynamic loading of the tongue load as the bus/trailer goes over the bumps and swells on the highway/roads/parking lot approaches/etc.
As a supplement to Jim's comment, next time you're in the neighborhood of a stick 'n staple dealership, stop by and have a chat with the service dept.  Ask the fellow if he's got any RVs in his shop with structural damage from pulling a heavy trailer, and go have a look.

My neighbor is the service mgr at the major RV dealer here in town, and he's shared with me some of the horror stories that are trailer-related.  For example, a fellow brought in a two-year old 32' Class A non-pusher where the walls had split and separated from the roof almost directly over the rear axle.  At the very back of the coach, the top of the rear wall was almost a foot below the roof from the frame's bending.  Vehicle was considered a "total."

The sad thing?  Insurance wouldn't cover it (abuse), manufacturer's warranty wouldn't cover it (abuse), and the guy still owed over $75K on the rig. :'(

After Mel showed me a couple other rigs with similar, yet not as severe damage, I've become a firm believer in using a Trailer Toad.  At approximately $3500 new, it sure beats the cost of repairing a coach chassis should a failure take place.  And no, I'm not a dealer nor do I have any financial interest in the company!  Just being SAFETY-minded!!

Trailer Toad Link: http://www.trailertoad.com

FWIW & HTH. . .

 ;)
1992 Prevost XL Vantaré Conversion M1001907 8V92T/HT-755 (DDEC/ATEC)
2003 VW Jetta TDI Sportwagon "Towed"
Cheney WA (when home)

 

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