Rooftop A/C Comparisons

[daveola]

I'm trying to find a replacement rooftop A/C for my bus.

While I'd love to do something like a split A/C or other such fancypants cooling, I stopped boondocking in my bus some years back and only use it a couple times a year now, so I don't need a big project.

Problem is I am getting overwhelmed with the options, and I'm stuck in analysis paralysis.

The things I care about, in order, are cooling (13.5/15kBTU/h), power use, noise, cost.  That doesn't mean cost doesn't matter, it's just third on my list of things I care about.

I've got a list of A/Cs in a spreadsheet here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1NTlL1wiXV5CelOM0ioKtNgHP-rNf76pqdoOqO005UFE/edit?usp=sharing

But it seems there are so many options and differences between all of them.

Do we have any experts who have tried out all the different (current) A/C units?

The Coleman NDQ looks like a pretty promising option.  The 13500 BTU/h unit is also really good from a power consumption, and I can probably get by on 13500.  There's evidently a softstart option for that A/C, but I can't seem to find it in stock anywhere (though you can buy a softstart unit and install it for $300 as an option).

Also interested in the Furrion - but the power is high and I've read that it needs to keep the blower fan on 100% of the time for the thermostat to work, though I wonder if I can just control the full power to the unit from a power relay and my own thermostat.  Can't tell if they're well made or more junk, though.

Anyways - hoping for some opinions, though maybe I'm just opening up a battle between Coleman and Dometic users to say "mine's better!"

Would prefer to hear from people who have tried multiple options out.

[chessie4905]

I only use Coleman. If front unit needed to help cool driver, consider 15k unit. Other option is heatpump version which may or may not be of a benefit. If you want one that will last a lot longer that some of the new ones, consider the more expensive heavy duty or rough service unit, less likely to develop leaks down the road. As far as noise, all the rooftops are noisey, especially on high.

[lvmci]

If you come to the southwest on your trips, 15K are the best choice, 13.5K barely can handle the summer heat. Heat pumps aren't the best in high heat or freezing temperatures. If height is a problem, there is the penguins,  noise will be the hardest problem to solve, lvmci...

[daveola]

Height doesn't matter to me.

Does the diff between 15k and 13.5k really matter that much?  It would seem that it's about an 11% increase in cooling, which doesn't seem massive.

I don't need a perfect temp in the bus, I just need it to be less than sweltering.

[chessie4905]

It'll matter if you are somewhere it is in the 90's out, and especially in a dark colored coach. If your coach is urethane insulation lined, it may not matter.
If you intend to run it while driving, then yes it is worth having. The only problem would be if you intend to operate the ac with a limited output generator.

[dtcerrato]

We love the chosen 13.5 over a 15 because it was advertised as a HE unit (high efficiency) it only draws 9A when running and the 2800W inverter starts & runs it with ease.

[sledhead]

I have the Furrion 1450 unit in the bed room of the coach and it cools fast but yes noise like all of them . If you put it in auto mode it will turn on and of on its own . So sometimes I forget it is on as there is no fan running until it cycles again . but I have only had it for 2 years and the service is crap if you have a problem . The only thing that helped me when I 1st bought it was it came from etrailer and it came with a broken cover and I had a replacement cover in less that 1 week + they gave me a free return for the old cover .

etrailer good

Furrion not sure but it cools great

I miss the mini split in the MCI as it was by far better in every way and way more quiet 

dave   

[luvrbus]

We have 3-15000 Coleman roof top defused they are quite with automatic control, all AC units the max BTU is done by fan speed and volume a 13,000 btu unit will be less than 10,000 btu on low.We use our RV to travel not to live in the price of power is not that important that you save with the splits plus I don't like the space a split takes up or the inside unit people try to hide we all do it our way

[peterbylt]

We first installed a 12k Pioneer Mini Split with the indoor unit over the top of the windshield.

We are very happy with this unit it is very quiet and efficient, sufficient to cool the entire bus most of the time.
 
The problems happen when the temperatures get into the upper 90’s then we start to lose ground.

After much deliberation we decided to go the other way and installed a Coleman Mach 15 in the rear hatch in the back of the Bus, This unit Kicks A$$, can cool the bus from heat soaked to the 70’s in minutes.

Between the two we have the best of both worlds, Most of the time we run the mini Split, but when it gets real hot or we just want to cool the bus quickly we kick on the  Mach 15.

The Mini Split sips electricity, The Coleman gulps it, Mini split is so quiet you can’t hear it most of the Time, Coleman is pretty loud, Mini Split takes a while to cool, Coleman cools quickly.

Most of the time we run both to get where we want in the mid 70’s then maintain with the Mini Split.

Peter

[daveola]

Well - I'm hoping for a rooftop, but I admit I love the efficiency of the mini-split.  But Pioneer only does 12k BTU/h if you are running 110.  Sad.

Does anyone know of a mini-split that works well in the rumbling environments of a coach and gets >=15k BTU/h on 110V?  What's the efficiency diff?  Are we talking about something like 10-25% savings of power?  Or is it much more than that?

I care because I do actually run off batteries (I have a massive 36KWh battery bank, and will probably be switching to lithium soon).  Minimizing generator total runtime is very important for my setup.  (But let's not get into that whole discussion, ....  )

[sledhead]

our set up was the same mini split over the front window and roof top noise maker in the bed room . most times the same after you cool down the coach we would use just the mini split to hold the cool temp. and most times you had to look at the display to see if it was on . little to no noise . I sure miss that

dave

[windtrader]

Dave,
I have a working Coleman that I pulled out. Your's for free if you come get it in Sac. don

[6805eagleguy]

So, to sum it up. If you want a cool bus in high temps or on the road use a roof air. If you mostly sit year round, with lower average temps get mini split?

For us, we use 3 15k btu roof airs. Turn them all on when sitting and you can hang meat. However it’s about the right amount for driving down the road. Keep in mind we don’t have dash ac. (Yet)

[luvrbus]

I have a 45,000 btu dash air with a 17,000 btu aux unit in the rear under the bed it sure makes for nice comfy ride in the AZ heat,I have it cold on my side and Sonja can have her desired  temps