How to Convert a 2 door Entrance to a 1 door

[Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM]

I have a MC9 (now) with the split two piece door which I want to convert to a one piece door.  I obtained a one piece door from another MC9 but when I started looking at it closely, it looks like the one piece door is about 1.5 inches deep, whereas the two piece door is only about 1 inch deep.  Does anyone know how you compensate for the difference?  I was told the one piece door should easily replace the current two piece door, but now I am not so sure.  Also, I have the hinge that attaches to the one piece door, but am wondering how it attaches to the current two piece door hinge.  Do I need another hinge section that mounts to the bus or should the old hinge work?  I thought these doors were interchangeable.  Any help would be appreciated.

[belfert]

This is totally off the wall, but how badly do you want to keep the bus look on your coach?

I don't recall how wide a door opening is on an MC9, but how about reframing the opening and installing a motorhome door instead?  Ron the Bus Nut has (or had) a bunch of real nice motorhome doors that fit in a 28" wide opening.  I did this on my bus, but matching the skin is a lot easier when you have smooth painted sides on the bus.  It might be more difficult on an MC9.

[Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM]

Belfert,

I already have the one piece door off a MC9 and I was told that it should fit.  The door is a real bus door so it will look nice when I get finished, once I figure out of it will require new molding or whatever to make the conversion.  I was wondering if anyone had experience with this.

[Tom Y]

I did the door on my 5C with a 9 door. Used hindges from the 9 with no problems. I had to modify the seal for the thicker door. I hope it works well, time will tell. If you can find the alumium trim with weather seals from a single door you should have no problems.  Tom Y

[buswarrior]

All the mounting points are in there for attaching the sedan door.

Fear not, the two piece transit style door has to move around, has a lot of seals, and was the second thought design that was jammed into the stock sedan door's space at the factory, not the other way around.

Other than the specific seals, the door frame accepts both styles universally, former owner's modifications notwithstanding....

MCI parts will bolt right in to make it lovely.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Hartley]

You will need to remove all the 2-pc door trim and weather seals and get a set for
a standard 1-pc door. Including the bottom treadle seal bar so the door seals at the bottom.

The MC8 / MC9 Parlor doors are the same as far as size and hinges, So if you have the
big hinge you should also get the lower hinge and mountings. You will need that to
prevent the door from sagging and closing reliably.

The corner of the dash should have a cover that you remove and the bracing should
already be there with the holes to bolt to.

Your next issue will be the door latch & bolt location of the parlor door so to make
things easier to work with you may want to remove all the interior trim panels
to get to the workings. (also makes the door easier to get hold of.)

Make sure to get rid of all the old 2-pc door operator and shafts and garbage
as they will be hard to remove later because you have to remove a lot of the
stainless trim panels to get to it all. There are air pressure lines up in the forward
floor section where the pneumatics are that you will want to cap off.

Have fun.....

[buswarrior]

Something else occurred to me, if the fit or attachment points are a little wonky...

repaired collision damage to the front corner will have been done sufficient to get the two piece door to function and seal. Even a reputable shop only fixes things so they will work. Pleasing to the eye and functional would be the order of the day for that kind of damage, not fine measurements.

Might require some more tweaking, if there ever has been a hit to this area.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[trailblazer2]

 I replaced my bi-fold doors without going through using the sedan type(one piece) hinges and hardware. I think this is one of the biggest things in this ordeal. I used (6) stainless steel hinges,under the skin of the new door,and under the front corner panel. I haven't had any problems so far,and like the ability to open the door more fully.If you need more info,just let me know.
Bill

[Busnut83]

I made my two piece door a one piece,,, great so far and less than $50.

[NJT5047]

Buswarrior makes a good point about tweaked door frames.  The door jamb has about a 1/8" tolerance. 
Be sure and leave a window open so that you can gain access to the inside of the bus while working on the door...and latch.  If you close a bad fitting door, you may not be able to pull it open. 
I'd recommend beginning the install before installing the weather stripping.  Once the door works well without the weatherstip, measure all around for offset, and then install one strip at a time.  Adjust as required. 
Keep in mind that the upper hinge is also a height adjustment.  Turning the hinge pin bolt will raise or lower the door. 
Never let the one-piece door 'hang' on the lower hinge.  The lower mount points are behind a removeable SS panel.  A good used lower hinge assembly is expensive and hard to find.  The upper hinge is about indestructable. 
The upper and lower hinges have shims behind the door attachment point.  Several of these may be required.  They can be made from sheet aluminum..or steel. 
The airlock should be installed for safe highway use.  The door is designed to be retained at the airlock mount. 
As Dr Dave says, you gotta have all of the weather seals from a sedan door install.  And the limit rod, spring, and lower hinge.   
The limit rod bracket is under the dash.  The door will swing open hard enough to screw up the alignment if the limit rod isn't used.   
You'll also want to be thinking about how to install a campground door latch.   When installing a CG latch, avoid cutting thru the door frame. 
Once the door will close without binding, the upper door area may have to be 'bucked' inward (or outward) to get the best fit.   Be careful and don't break the glass while doing this.   If the door gets bound up at the top, the glass could be broken by pulling on the bottom of the door. 
The doors have multiple axis adjustment.   Big chore getting a good fit.
The OEM door frame must be within original dimensions, or the sedan door will not fit.  You may have to jack the front door frame outward, inward, forward or rearward.  Bifolds will fit any opening--a sedan door is exacting. 
Don't get frustrated when installing the door.  It probably won't even close when initially bolted in place.
Gradually see what direction it needs to move and make minor adjustments as you go. 
The air valve for the bi-folds can be used to control the air lock.  That's about the only thing that can be reused.
The outcome is worth the effort.  You'll like both the looks and function of a sedan door.
Good luck, JR

[NJT5047]

FWIW, this is a pix of a bi-fold conversion.

 

[travelingfools]

I am in the begining throws of the same job. On my NJT, the plates for the upper "hinge" are not on the existing plate on the firewall. I have all the hardware and the other plate from the sedan door and will be welding the section of the old plate that holds the upper "hinge" onto the existing plate. If you have the upper arm, it would be failrly simple to fab the tabs needed for the upper plate...Hope that wasn't to confusing.

[NJT5047]

Yep.  The upper hinge isn't included on '87 NJTs.  Bummer.
Have fun!   
I have proof that it can be done!  The welding you describe is why my bus has new front panels.  I figured I'd have to pull them anyway, so they were replaced when the door was installed. 
JR

[travelingfools]

I think Ill pull that panel off before I weld... Im sure that will open up a whole new can of worms..lol

[NJT5047]

I'm going to try to post a better pix of an NJT door conversion....one more time.
Matt, if you live within easy driving distance of Charlotte, NC, be happy to show the details related to the door conversion. 
JR