We need to insulate....

[John316]

The back area over the engine. There is SOOOO much heat that just radiates up there. That makes for a warm room . We already have 1.5" pink foam under .5" plywood. We wondered about a EHP product of sorts. Do any of you all have any real life experience with them? We have called them, and they can sing their own praises pretty well. We just want to have that very well insulated....What do you all think?

God bless,

John

[luvrbus]

It works John how much do you need I have about 1/2 roll left.My bus has it on the floor covered with a sheets of lead no noise and no heat.
Some install in the engine compartment I think that is what BK did with piece I gave him.    
It is amazing stuff you can torch one side while holding your hand on the other side but it has no R value  
 
good luck

[NJT5047]

I have a solution to your problem.  Your S60 make too much heat.  You need a 6V92 and then you'll arrive with a cool bed.  You may not arrive quite as quickly...but you'll get there.   Eventually...?
I will be happy to sacrifice and trade your S60 for my cool running 6V92.  Hey, what are friends for? 
Since you ain't gonna do that, I would have thought that 1.5" of foam would have somewhat resolved the heat issue.   
Is the heat coming thru the floor, or the back bulkhead?  Is the bulkhead similarly insulated?
You may consider going into the engine room and installing a radiant wrap on the floor and area behind the radiators (if accessable?) above the engine and transmission.
Reckon what EHP would cost to cover that large an area?   
A radiant foil wrap like used in airplane cockpits might help.   Airbag?  You know about this stuff....?
JR

[belfert]

I'm looking to fix a similiar problem.  The rear is noisier than heck when going down the road due to engine noise.  HEat is somewhat an issue, but the air conditioner can take care of that.

I find it hard to believe that there was that much noise when my Dina was a passenger bus.  I thought fixing the engine access cover would help, but it did not.

[MCI-RICK]

John316,

Please post your results and what you end up using.  I'd really like to get rid of the engine noise we have too! 

Rick

[Dreamscape]

Heck, I wish I could hear mine! It's so darn quiet I can hardly hear it when I'm ready to shift, I just wait until I feel the govenor reach it's limit. Course that might be all the rusting taking place, it's makes a lot of noise ya know!

Paul

[wrench]

 I used Hardi-backer ( 2 sheet & a cork sheet in the middle) for a front engine cover in a bluebird, did the round corner with 1" tile on cloth & liquid cement. = heavy but quiet & cool.
      wrench

[JohnEd]

The HOT setup.....no pun intended....is the exhaust header, pipe and turbo being "wet wrapped".  People that have installed that stuff say you can fling open the rear doors and stick your head in the engine bay and pull the dipstick without gloves or a full air supply aspirator.  Pushes all the heat out the ex pipe where it should go.  The added bennifit of this product is that you get a hp AND mpg BOOST from not cooling the gases before they go thru the turbo.  There is also some min performance boost to putting the wet wrap on the ex pipe running from the turbo to the muffler.  Main reason there is strictly heat reduction.

I think adding insulation to your floor is a lost opportunity for you.  You already have close to R10 in there and if it is failing as bad as you say I doubt that R15 would solve your problem.  You need to eliminate the heat source ala wet blanket or reject it with R value and reflection.  The Pres' come with a layer of EHP like stuff plastered to the inside of the engine bay in sheets.  It looks like tough foil backing for longivity and wear resistance and reflection properties.  If you can find a way to apply the EHP to "any" surface inside your bay, you will lessen your heat problem.  Wrapping the pipes is the only sure fix that I can see for you at this point.  It also will add to the life of yuor ex manifold and plumbing.

I think you can get advice that you would value much more than mine, and justifiably so, from the Prevost owners forum in Yahoo groups and elsewhere.  There are a ton of Pre owners here that should also chime in.  Originally, I thought this stuff was mostly snake oil but I was very wrong and I own no stock.

HTH,

John

[johns4104]

for sound i used 1/2" acoustic foam and 1/8 inch sheet bloc (high density rubber) i think it is called it is supposed to be 8db quieter than lead sheet.
Now the kids can hear the tv just fine and of course i need the tach to shift because it is so quiet.
My wife said that it made an amazing difference. I always drive so I will take her word for it.
for heat i used 1 1/2 inch high density fiberglass.
of course i don't have much heat with a 671 detroit.

John

[MCI-RICK]

Johns4104,

Where did you get the high density rubber?  Did you give up any limbs for it?

Rick

[johns4104]

http://store.mmxpress.com/index.php?c=damping&n=11042291&s=sr&p=2&x=Sound_Damping_Home_Car
i think 10' x 4' was about 159 plus shipping.
it was well worth it.
I put it on the rear seat back and the seat base and that was all.

John

[NJT5047]

I'm looking to fix a similiar problem.  The rear is noisier than heck when going down the road due to engine noise.  HEat is somewhat an issue, but the air conditioner can take care of that.

I find it hard to believe that there was that much noise when my Dina was a passenger bus.  I thought fixing the engine access cover would help, but it did not.

Brian, you got 'four stroke-itis'...S60's make a lot more fuss than a 2 stroke.  S60s literally 'chatter' when running.  They'll buzz the whole bus at anything less than highway speeds.   
This is one area (one of very few) where 2 strokes are superior to 4 strokes.   
Our bed will get warm after a long trip, but the engine is barely audible in my MC9...in any event, the bedroom AC will cool that sucker off quick.
You know it's running and shifting because you can feel it, but the only engine noise is turbo whine.    V92s are quiet and smooth. 
JR

[buswarrior]

The "D" model needs insulating on the whole back wall too, not just the floor.seat area, with the rads mounted against the back wall.

The trick of opening the engine doors on arrival to let the heat out might help too.

You can get louvered skins for the engine room doors from IBP to do it for you.

Is there any engine room insulation left?

happy coaching!
buswarrior