I guess if a person felt the urge they could also wire a welder into the kitchen circuit, what I'm asking is, are the companies that manufacture buses all wiring them wrong by putting the disconnect switch where the factory put it, clearly somebody here is wrong, incidentally, my eagle also has the disconnect and it's factory installed.
Sounds like it would be a good idea to put a switch into the Vanner ground line, labeled "Disconnect FIRST, Connect LAST"...That means for long-term parking, it will need to be disconnected. I'm thinking of a SPST for the ground and a DPST to cut the other two, so it would be:1) Cut Vanner ground2) Cut Vanner hots3) Main disconnectThen the other way around when it's time to roll.
Looking at the MCI schematics, I have to sit corrected -- all Vanner connections are on the battery side of the main disconnect.
Quote from: BG6 on June 06, 2010, 10:19:42 AMSounds like it would be a good idea to put a switch into the Vanner ground line, labeled "Disconnect FIRST, Connect LAST"...That means for long-term parking, it will need to be disconnected. I'm thinking of a SPST for the ground and a DPST to cut the other two, so it would be:1) Cut Vanner ground2) Cut Vanner hots3) Main disconnectThen the other way around when it's time to roll.You know, we thought long and hard about this when we redid the bus, and decided to just hard-wire the Vanner. So long as the batteries are already equalized, the idle current is so minimal as to be almost irrelevant. If the batteries are unequal for any reason, you want the Vanner to be doing its job. And, lastly, if you hook up any kind of trickle charger to top the batteries up during storage, you'll want the Vanner in the circuit.If you store long enough, the batteries' self-discharge rate will cause you to have to top them up periodically anyway, whether that's by starting the bus, or using a charger. The Vanner does not really decrease the period for this all that much.
If you do decide to use switches to disconnect the Vanner in storage, then, yes, that's the right way to do it, or, alternatively, you can get (for a price) sequentially broken/made multi-pole manual switches. Just remember to use switches with the proper ratings -- some of those Vanners go up to 100 amps, which is a pretty big switch (one of the reasons we decided against it).
What is the idle current on the Vanner? Any more than half an amp can cause long-term problems on a coach which isn't run much.
Quote from: BG6 on June 06, 2010, 12:16:46 PMWhat is the idle current on the Vanner? 17 milliamps (0.017 amp)
What is the idle current on the Vanner?