Author Topic: wheel removal  (Read 6689 times)

Offline jjrbus

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #15 on: November 11, 2006, 03:56:32 PM »
I was refering to useing antiseize on the "mating surfaces"  of the wheel to the brake drum. I also use it on the mating surfaces of the brake drum to hub also the screws that hold the drum to hub!! I would not recommend useing it on the threads, it causes too much controversy. I do use it sparingly on threads, but I will never tell anyone that.
Remember, even at a Mensa convention someone is the dumbest person in the room!

Offline John E. Smith

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #16 on: November 11, 2006, 06:14:04 PM »
Is antizeeze really safe for wheels? I don't want one passing me going 65 + mph.  ??? What do the experts think?

I use it on other stuff at work, and it is a lifesaver.


The MCI MC-9 Service Manual calls for 500 ft/lbs of torque on hub piloted wheels with LIGHTLY oiled studs.  The proper way to oil them is two drops halfway down the stud, and two drops in the bottom of the nut.  Spin them on with a gun if you want, but ALWAYS use a torque wrench -- and no extensions.  Extensions give a false reading when used with a torque wrench.  If you MUST use one, for a 3/4" drive 18" extension add 25 ft/lbs to your setting to allow for the flex in the extension.

Older busses which still use the Budd nuts are spec'ed for 325 ft/lbs for the inner nuts (called spools) and 350 ft/lbs for the outter nuts.  Again, the torque advice above applies.

A trick we use around here is to lightly coat the inside edge and back face of the wheel hub hole with anti-sieze; makes it MUCH easier to get them off next time.
John E. Smith

Offline Stan

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Re: wheel removal
« Reply #17 on: November 12, 2006, 06:24:46 AM »
Here is a link to Accuride (formerly Firestone Wheel) wheel nut specifications:

They also have an excellent pdf file on wheels: