Electrical Panel Breakers

[Tikvah]

I'm going to start building an electrical panel.  I'm looking at some breakers for the DC runs instead of fuses.
I saw these on ebay:
push button circuit breaker for operation up to 50 volts DC or 250 volts AC.   The buyer can choose 5 amp, 10 amp, 15, 20 amp, 25 amp or 30 amp operation.

My question is, these state they can be used for AC or DC.  Is there any reasonable reason why I can't build both AC and DC panels using these breakers?

Dave

[Sean]

Three reasons.

First, code requires you to use a listed panelboard, and you will not find one that accepts these breakers.  Making your own panelboard from listed components requires engineering supervision.

Second, and more importantly, this type of breaker trips thermally only, whereas household or marine breakers trip both thermally and magnetically.  Thermal trip is generally too slow for a major overload, opening the possibility of damaging connected equipment.

Third, with this type of push-on blade connection, I see no way you could make these into a panel without individual jumper wires feeding each breaker, and those wires would be unprotected.  You would need a style that has screw terminals so that you could fabricate some kind of buss bar to feed them

By the time you make a panel and all the buss bars, and buy yourself a selection of these breakers, you probably will not save any money over a small household load center at a big box store, either.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com

[Tikvah]

That's exactly what I needed to know.

So, to clarify, do you find them acceptable for DC loads?

[eagle19952]

i like these :



or these..

[Sean]

... So, to clarify, do you find them acceptable for DC loads?

Yes.  However, they do not provide any way to turn off a DC circuit, the way a handle-type CB does.  Even blade fuses can be removed to disconnect a circuit.  For that reason, you might consider a different style.  There do exist thermal-type breakers in more or less this form-factor that have a small button or lever which serves to pop the reset button out and disconnect the circuit.

Now that I think about it, that's yet another reason these ought not be used on the AC side:  Code requires each circuit to have a "disconnecting means."  A conventional household or marine breaker serves this purpose at the same time it offers circuit protection -- disconnecting a circuit is as simple as moving the breaker handle.  With a breaker of the type shown, you would need a disconnect switch for each circuit downstream of the breaker, adding to the cost and complexity.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com

[Tikvah]

That makes sense Sean,  Thanks so much

[belfert]

I used two small Blue Seas fuse blocks for my DC stuff.  They use ATC fuses.  You can buy ATC fuses just about anywhere.  I have a ton of them as I used to buy them as cheap fillers when I needed a minimum order from an electrical supplier.  I have not blown enough fuses for DC circuit breakers to be useful.  I do have one DC device that required use of a circuit breaker and not a fuse.

[Boomer]

During conversion of my Silverside we relied heavily on Blue Sea products.  Used their panels for both AC and DC, as well as their fuse boxes and high capacity breakers. They are very high quality, marine grade.  Also, all fuses are the new LED type.

[Midwilshire]

Dave, we must be at the same point in the conversion process (buy that mini-split yet?)....   

I considered these sorts of breakers, but the cost for one that you can turn off manually -- like in the Cessnas and Pipers -- is cost prohibitive for me. 

http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/viewitems/circuit-breakers/push-pull-circuit-breaker?

A little better on price, but a little more uncertain, can be had at online auction sites.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=circuit+breaker&_sacat=26435&_dmpt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&_odkw=&_osacat=26435&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313

So I'm going with two Blue Sea fuse panels, one for 12v and one for 24v, because the install is cleaner in my opinion, and I can go through a whole lot of fuses (which is likely anyway) before breaking even with the circuit breaker route.

Mike

[FloridaCliff]

Yes.  However, they do not provide any way to turn off a DC circuit, the way a handle-type CB does.  Even blade fuses can be removed to disconnect a circuit.  For that reason, you might consider a different style.  There do exist thermal-type breakers in more or less this form-factor that have a small button or lever which serves to pop the reset button out and disconnect the circuit.

Now that I think about it, that's yet another reason these ought not be used on the AC side:  Code requires each circuit to have a "disconnecting means."  A conventional household or marine breaker serves this purpose at the same time it offers circuit protection -- disconnecting a circuit is as simple as moving the breaker handle.  With a breaker of the type shown, you would need a disconnect switch for each circuit downstream of the breaker, adding to the cost and complexity.

-Sean
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com

Tikvah,

You can get the disconnects (switches) and breakers by going to a closeout marine outfit.

I bought a complete dash with twenty switches and breakers for around $50.00.  Just look for one that is scratched up as you are going to strip it anyway.

The other nice thing is you maybe able to use the harness if you plan carefully.

Best of Luck,

Cliff