Author Topic: Replaicng the Engine Bay door  (Read 7557 times)

Offline Fred Mc

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Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« on: March 13, 2013, 10:30:17 PM »
I was having a shower tonight thinking about putting an egt gauge (pyrometer) in my diesel truck.That got me to thinking about how hot the exhaust gases are in  a diesel which got me to thinking abnout how hot the exhaust coming out of the tailpipe on my GM 4106 is which then led me to think about how much heat the muffler in my bus gives off as it is inside the engine compartment. And that got me to thinking about replacing the engine bay door skin(aluminum) with screen to reduce overheating problems (which I don"t have but which a lot of buses do).
Is this a viable option? I realize that not all buses hav the HUGE engine bay door that a lot of the GM's have but it only seems logical that it would reduce a lot of heat in ther engine ay that MUST contribute to overheasting problems.

Regards

Fred Mc.

Offline John316

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2013, 10:40:25 PM »
Fred,

That was a worthwhile read. Now we know how you think in the shower ;D :D ;D. It is funny how our thoughts lead to the next.

As far as the engine door, I have no idea. I would be on your side though. It must help, so why not?

Cheers,

John
Sold - MCI 1995 DL3. DD S60 with a Allison B500.

Offline bevans6

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2013, 04:02:11 AM »
A lot of people have put louvers on the rear door, or created a way to keep it half open, and reported a useful drop in engine temps as a result.  Problem with screening is that people will be able to see the engine through it, meaning you will have to keep it clean and tidy, and we all know that prying eyes can lead to intrusive fingers...

Brian
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

Offline Sam 4106

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2013, 04:39:26 AM »
Fred,

I recognize your post as being from someone that doesn't have enough to do. Why are you looking for a solution that doesn't have a problem? I fully understand the need to keep busy, but wouldn't it be better to solve a problem that your wife doesn't have, and at the same time earn a lot of brownie points? LOL How about building a slide out shelf for her pots and pans drawer or a magazine type rack for the atlas maps, and campground directory? Those are a couple of projects for my wife I did this winter. Kept me busy and made my wife happy.

If you are serious about your engine door project, I would suggest you think about it, in the shower if you must, for the next month and if it is still important to you, start on it then. My guess is it will be less of a priority by then. This advise is offered by someone who has been there done that, in only half seriousness.

Good luck, Sam
1976 MCI-8TA with 8V92 DDEC II and Allison HT740

Offline uncle ned

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2013, 07:56:39 AM »


To  fight a heating problem in HUGGY . I have louvers in the lower part of the engine door  and expanded grill in the
top  At first I just had the louvers, but during a run down the interstate pulling my box trailer. I did not get the door
latched. and the door came up.

That is when I figured that the air could not get out and added the expanded grill to the top.It also seemed to help
the heating problem some

uncle ned
4104's forever
6v92 v730
Huggy Bear

Offline lvbob

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2013, 08:24:46 AM »
This is what works for me to help exhaust the eng compartment hot air. I bought a fan from a junk yard for $20.00 (AC fan from wrecked cady), a few feet of wire and a toggle switch. In the summer and/or approaching a hard pull(mountains), I flip on the switch. It can't hurt.
1981 Eagle 10/15 series 60 740 auto

Offline Utahclaimjumper

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2013, 11:09:32 AM »
 The 06 has an area above the door hinge line that is perfect for a set of stainless polished marine louvers. As you know heat rises and is trapped in this area,, opening this area really makes a difference.>>>Dan
Utclmjmpr  (rufcmpn)
 EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
 72 VW Baja towed

Offline TomC

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #7 on: March 14, 2013, 02:35:28 PM »
I used an 18"H x 20"W aluminum door louver from McMaster-Carr (19605K891). Nice thing about door louvers is they come with two pieces-so I automatically had two vents for around $65.00. They're anadized and look great. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

Offline Scott & Heather

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2013, 02:53:31 PM »
bleh...i just bungee my engine bay doors open. who needs to see my license plate or tail lights?
in all honesty though, once when our coach was slightly overheating, we unbolted the two engine bay doors on the side of the road, threw them in the luggage bay, and drove off. people stare funny when your engine is all exposed like that.  "what did they expect was back there?"
Scott & Heather
1984 MCI 9 6V92-turbo with 9 inch roof raise (SOLD)
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Offline gus

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #9 on: March 14, 2013, 04:00:19 PM »
GM engineers knew what they were doing. The buses were designed to exhaust engine heat out the right side and bottom.

If you have an overheating problem make sure you have the center and wheel mudflaps in place and a good radiator fan shroud (Not really sure about this on a 4106 but needed on a 4104).

Originally these older buses also had belly pans which were long ago thrown away because they were in the way for maintenance.

A tiny blower is like spitting into the ocean, we're talking huge volumes of hot air here.

If you have no overheating problem you are trying to solve a non-existent problem!!
PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR

Offline Utahclaimjumper

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #10 on: March 14, 2013, 05:52:46 PM »
 If you have a rear bedroom like most do,, louvers to let out the accumulated heat will also leave you with a cooler bed on a hot summer night.>>>D
Utclmjmpr  (rufcmpn)
 EX 4106 (presently SOB)
Cedar City, Ut.
 72 VW Baja towed

Offline Kwajdiver

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2013, 12:18:56 PM »
Vents can never hurt.  This is what I did on the sides.  Found these vents at a boat supply company.

Good Luck!

Bill
Auburndale, Florida
MCI-9
V-6-92 Detroit, Allison 5 spd auto
Kwajalein Atoll, RMI

Offline luvrbus

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #12 on: March 15, 2013, 12:31:04 PM »
Why does the GM have shields on the bottom of cradle surely that is designed to take hot air out at a certain area where ?
Life is short drink the good wine first

Offline gus

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Re: Replaicng the Engine Bay door
« Reply #13 on: March 15, 2013, 05:40:09 PM »
If the engine installation is original the most important external thing is the center and wheel mudflaps, these create low pressure under the engine to exhaust hot air. If it has been modified all bets are off.

It appears to me that those engine rooms were designed to have air flow from the radiator over the engine to exhaust right bottom and side with belly pans in place. There doesn't appear to be any other path for intake cooling air other than via the radiator?

Of course it also appears that most bus company mechanics removed the belly pans first thing!!

I stand to be corrected on this by the resident experts, but this is the way it appears to me.
PD4107-152
PD4104-1274
Ash Flat, AR

 

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