Author Topic: I'm new here/Leaky Axle Seal, and other questions (Read 7144 times)

Cecil The Diesel · « **on:** June 25, 2013, 01:36:42 PM »

I have an 82 MC-9 and have a seal that leaking fluid down onto the brake on the driver side #2 axle. Any breakdown of the process to change this out, and any part #'s or suppliers would be very appreciated. I'm very comfortable doing my own maintenance, but haven't tackled an axle this large.

I bought the bus last August in NJ so I could convert it for touring with my band www.peeweemoore.com I drove from NJ to Tennessee, took the seats out, got rid of the center aisle ramp, laid hardwood brazilian cherry floor front to rear, built a rear bedroom, bath, and toilet rooms, and 4 bunks then drove to California, and then back to Georgia for a grand total round trip of 7,000 miles the first month. Coast to coast!

It's a good running bus still in mid conversion state but I am about to go back out on tour and noticed a leaky axle seal. The bus has a fresh (107,000 mile reman) 8V71 and 5 Speed, and cruises out great.

I'm getting ready to do the interior in it, and need some advice for skinning the 3 center windows as well.

Looking forward to getting to know y'all!

azdieselman · « **Reply #1 on:** June 25, 2013, 02:45:35 PM »

I don't know if this is a drive axle or not. If it is, You'll need to remove the axle first, Then remove the locknut, washers,inner nut and outer wheel bearing. Remove the hub from spindle, The seal may or may not come with it. Clean up the parts, Oil up the inner bearing, and install it and the seal. Put hub back on, fill up the cavity between the bearings with gear oil, Install the outer bearing, washers and inner nut. Tighten the inner nut down snug, Spin the hub to fully seat the bearings while tightening, Back off the nut 90*. Install the lock washer and outer nut, Tighten the outer nut securely. Bend the washer ears if equipped. Install a new gasket on the hub and install the axle. Top off the rear axle oil level.

Cecil The Diesel · « **Reply #2 on:** June 25, 2013, 04:11:28 PM »

Yes it is the drive axle, and thanks a ton for the info!

Do you know a source for the seal?

Dave5Cs · « **Reply #3 on:** June 25, 2013, 04:23:48 PM »

Luke B. NJ US coach 888-262-2434

or NAPA Heavy truck

http://www.busconversion101.com/mc9_maint_manual.htm

Dave5Cs

Cecil The Diesel · « **Reply #4 on:** June 25, 2013, 04:33:22 PM »

Thanks Dave I appreciate it!

azdieselman · « **Reply #5 on:** June 25, 2013, 05:07:41 PM »

Dave, You could have saved me a bunch of typing if you posted that earlier.

longjohn · « **Reply #6 on:** June 25, 2013, 05:36:43 PM »

there a few bus nuts in your neck of the woods and also a couple of shops plus the advice you get here is top notch. don't know how soon you need to to the bus to go back out on the road, if i was closer i would come help , heck i would do it myself for you cause if that is you singing and picking my god man be careful wheels brake drums and hubs are heavy you Truly don't want to smash a hand or finger. there are u tube videos and as i said plenty of advice here . also there is fellow goes by the handle B K that owns a charter company not to far away i am thinking you are in Tenn However you mentioned Georgia and there is some bus nuts down there also . So Cecil i don't know what part you play in the band, however if that is you singing my hat is off to you folks ( even if your not the singer being part of the band would to me be an honor) i have for the last three weeks being plagued with kidney stones and have not been able to do a whole lot. could not even to go back out on the truck if i wanted to. Sitting here pecking out this reply and listening to your Music has Truly made me feel a hell of a lot better..... Will be purchasing some . man this is my kind of music!!! to stay on the topic of buses, good luck with your repairs as the conversion progresses ... John O aka Longjohn

Guess i should have read the Bio first i see Austin in there , maybe put where the bus is located in you signature , never know might be a bus nut right around the corner willing to help out...

Dave5Cs · « **Reply #7 on:** June 25, 2013, 06:06:37 PM »

Wasn't here earlier, !...LOL

Dave5Cs

Cecil The Diesel · « **Reply #8 on:** June 25, 2013, 06:15:25 PM »

Yes I'm the singer, guitar player, promoter, manager, bus driver, and mechanic lol. There are a few other things I'm leaving out, but I do appreciate the kind words Longjohn. I'm located not far from Chattanooga TN I guess I should update the location now haha.

azdieselman thanks for going in depth with an explanation of the procedure. I can tell I'm gonna like being a part of this community just fine!

jd_boggs · « **Reply #9 on:** June 25, 2013, 07:29:09 PM »

I repaired my brake pads and seal replacement when the seal leaked etc. Took some pictures so you can see what you're up against. Please check to see if there is a wear sleeve at the end of the axle tube. Mine leaked because the wear sleeve got nicked and scratched when I had mechanics replace the diff assembly. The rubber seal rides on the wear sleeve so if there is an imperfection, it will eat the seal in one mile. I large 'friction' shop should replace the pads on the shoes rather easily. I wiped the brake drum with rags then cleaned well with ketone or a good solvent.
Remove the seals and then call Luke with the numbers he will have the seals. Good luck.
BTW there is also a wear sleeve for the inside seal as well. Check it closely.

Pics: http://www.promarc.com/hobbies/brake/index.htm

trucktramp · « **Reply #10 on:** June 25, 2013, 07:36:34 PM »

If your brake shoes got contaminated with the grease you may want to consider changing them. Some guys soak them with BrakeKlean...it's cheaper than new shoes but if they are soaked, they won't stop as good as shoes that don't have grease on them.

Cecil The Diesel · « **Reply #11 on:** June 25, 2013, 07:48:21 PM »

Thanks jd_boggs. It's nice to know what you're up against, and as the old saying goes a picture is worth a thousand words! I will prob have the shoes relined while its apart. Probably change the passenger side seal while I'm at it.

Anything else I should go over before hitting the road? I'm probably looking at a 15,000 mile run for the Summer/Fall and I need as little problems or downtime as possible.

jd_boggs · « **Reply #12 on:** June 25, 2013, 08:03:04 PM »

You need to 'release' the slack adjusters to be able to pull out the brake drum.

You will need to release the slack adjusters but before you do make sure to back out the 'awl' it's a small pin and is spring loaded. If you don't pull the 'awl' you'll shear it's point and the slack adjuster maybe not work anymore.

Dreamscape · « **Reply #13 on:** June 26, 2013, 05:34:58 AM »

I had a leaky rear axle seal on our Eagle. I replaced it with a Stemco two piece seal. Cost was about 40 bucks at the local truck parts house in San Antonio.

It does not leak now!

Jon · « **Reply #14 on:** June 26, 2013, 09:22:58 AM »

I'm not an MCI expert, but I have replaced a number of seals on all axles on various Prevost coaches which might be the same. But one thing that is an absolute. No matter how it comes apart and goes together make absolutely certain you have either lubed the bearings, or gotten differential fluid into the hub.

I usually coat the bearings with heavy bearing grease, but then to put on suspenders with my belt I tip the axle to insure differential fluid gets into the hub.

I know of two Prevost coaches that got new hub seals with the work done by big shops and they failed to insure the hub was filled or the bearings lubed, and in both cases they got about 4 to 6 miles before they twisted the end off the differential housing due to seized bearings.

BCM Community