The issues with converting with this scheme that I see (without going out to my bus to check) is that there is no headlamp relay in the AC junction box to take the 12V feed from the batteries, the wiring from the AC box relay to the junction box headlight relay would have to be added, and there is a bunch of wiring and a stud terminal strip in the front electrical bay that may have to be added. A lot simpler to just grab the 12V from the stud in the junction bay and substitute it for the 24V feed on the existing headlamp relay, but then you need a Vanner to equalize the batteries. Anyway, for those who were ever curious about how the later MCI system works, this is it.Brian
Gumpy is dead right - there is a reason MCI did it that way!
I couldn't let this go - something was bugging the heck out of me and I couldn't put my finger on it. Then I got it - how does MCI get away with only a 10 amp breaker in the 12V feed to the headlamps? I figured a 15 amp fuse would be minimum and I would use wiring and fuse for 20 amps. Then I realized the MCI system was actually a 24 volt system with the headlamps in series, not in parallel like a normal 12 volt system would have. The 12 volt tap, with all it's complex relays, four fuses, and so on - is only there so that if one headlamp fails the other one still has a path to power and can work on it's own. So the maximum current under normal circumstances in the 12V tap to the batteries is effectively zero, and goes up to around 7.5 amps if one side has failed and the other side has high beams on. Gumpy is dead right - there is a reason MCI did it that way!Brian