MC-9 LP Gas Piping Installation

[BlueScarecrow]

Ok... I'm at a point where I'd like to run a gas buss from the 1st luggage bay to the 3rd luggage bay. At the end of the 3rd bay it will 90 to the 3rd luggage bay on the passenger side to pick-up the outdoor grill. The Buss will have tee taps and the black pipe will continue up through the floor to a valve and then through a flex line to the appliance. I want to keep the copper tubing down to a minimum.

Figuring an approximate 20 foot run for the buss and another 40 feet for all of the fittings, 60 feet of 3/4 black pipe will carry 217,000 btu's, well over my total of 157,000 btu's for all of the appliances.

Confidence is high at this point, but I would feel more comfortable with professional guidence. I'm an electrician not a plumber.

I built this regulator array and later dismayed that I cannot use it.

At this stage of the game, I'd like to keep the mistakes down to an absolute minimum.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Gang!!!


Mike

[eagle19952]

why would you need 6 regulators ?

trailered rv's have one....

[gumpy]

Seems like overkill.  Keep it simple.

http://www.gumpydog.com/Bus/MC9_WIP/Propane_Distribution/propane_distribution.htm

[luvrbus]

To many regulators 1 at the tank is all you need the black pipe will  work fine any problems just up the pressure in 1/2 lbs increments at the tank regulator

[chessie4905]

   That hose fitting connecting to the red regulator looks too small for the rest of the system. We use one  regulator, slightly larger than the red one  at a tent that we serve food from every year and it supplies enough propane to run 4 large griddles mostly at full output..

[Dave5Cs]

In a Bus you will more than likely not be running everything at one time either.

Dave5Cs

[luvrbus]

Me I would use the CSST for appliance connection not copper on copper for Propane you need a double flare

[Iceni John]

CSST is MUCH easier than rigid pipe and lots of fittings.   I use 1/2" ProFlex CSST and its fittings from Lowes, very affordable and good quality.   You can buy 25' and 50' lengths, which means you can make continuous unbroken runs from the manifold to each appliance.   The fewer the connections and joints, the safer.   For added safety I ran it inside 3/4" EMT conduit where there is any possibility of something touching it, and ProFlex makes a flexible protector similar to flex conduit for tight bends.

John

[BlueScarecrow]

Yeah... I screwed up with all those regulators. My goal was to keep everything separate, so in case anything leaked it could be isolated.

Gumpy has capsulized the whole matter right here.

"Because I have not owned an RV before, I was unsure about how the plumbing was supposed to be done. I just didn't have a good feel for how this stuff was put together, and I couldn't get a straight answer from anyone...".

That's the nail on the head right there.

I like Gumpy's flange idea to support the pipe. I had been looking for a flange like that with a set screw, but couldn't find one.

All of the gas fittings have to be visible for inspection. They cannot be inside a wall or hidden.

Just purchased 2 Imperial tubing benders... one is 1/2" and the other is 3/8". Man they do a nice professional bend.

BTW for the coach to be certified the work has to be accomplished by a certified company otherwise you cannot get comprehensive insurance. At least that's what State Farm told me.

So many bases to cover.

Thanks for writing guys!!!

[eagle19952]

who certifies coaches ?

[gumpy]

BTW for the coach to be certified the work has to be accomplished by a certified company otherwise you cannot get comprehensive insurance. At least that's what State Farm told me.

I have State Farm insurance on mine. They didn't ask about any of that.  I think it probably depends on what state you are in, and how good of an agent you have.

[Tony LEE]

"  That hose fitting connecting to the red regulator looks too small for the rest of the system"

The gas in that line is at 100psi whereas after the regulator it is at a few inches of water - so the flow rates in a pipe will be inversely proportional to the pressure in the pipe.

[BlueScarecrow]

"  That hose fitting connecting to the red regulator looks too small for the rest of the system"

The gas in that line is at 100psi whereas after the regulator it is at a few inches of water - so the flow rates in a pipe will be inversely proportional to the pressure in the pipe.

The Red Regulator is a first stage compact version from Marshall Excelsior. It takes tank pressure and reduces it to 10 psi. The Green Regulator is a second stage regulator, also a compact version from the same company. It takes the 10 psi and reduces it further down to 11" WC.

[BlueScarecrow]

"  That hose fitting connecting to the red regulator looks too small for the rest of the system"

The gas in that line is at 100psi whereas after the regulator it is at a few inches of water - so the flow rates in a pipe will be inversely proportional to the pressure in the pipe.

Oops... almost forgot. The Red Regulator is capable of 1,200,000 btu's; the Green Regulator is capable of 400,000 btu's.

[Dave5Cs]

One regulator get it at an RV store and generally will be set to run most stuff in there. Then get yourself an auto shutoff that if you get a leak at the tank it will close the line down. I have a switch for mine at the dash. Also in some states you will need to leave the bay door unlocked and marked with the letters LPG in contrasting paint or stick-ons for the FD if needed so they can find it fast. I also put a shut off at every appliance in case I had to shut it down for repair but still needed to use the others.


Dave5Cs