Banging up a rear window blank

[Darkspeed]

I was very concerned by the compound curve on the 4106 rear window but it turns out with a little heat and hammer you can make a flush blank from a flat sheet of 16 gauge steel.

[Oonrahnjay]

    And all my life I've lain in bed on Sunday nights thinking "why would someone need a sheet metal rear window blank for a 4106".  Any clues???

[Iceni John]

How are you welding steel to aluminum?

[Darkspeed]

How are you welding steel to aluminum?

it is steel to steel on the 4106

[chessie4905]

You may want to foam the inside surface to stiffen it after installation.

[Darkspeed]

   And all my life I've lain in bed on Sunday nights thinking "why would someone need a sheet metal rear window blank for a 4106".  Any clues???

Well the OEM rear windows dont exist any more, the gaskets dont exist anymore, and I am using it as an adapter to fit a rectangular insulated rv window with screen from motion windows.

[Darkspeed]

You may want to foam the inside surface to stiffen it after installation.

I will be cutting a fairly large rectangle out of it for a window but the whole bus is getting 3" of closed cell on the inside.

[Oonrahnjay]

   Well the OEM rear windows dont exist any more, the gaskets dont exist anymore, and I am using it as an adapter to fit a rectangular insulated rv window with screen from motion windows. 

     Thank you.  I'm likely to be doing something similar, except the existing panel is fiber (or fibre) glass. 

[Darkspeed]

    Thank you.  I'm likely to be doing something similar, except the existing panel is fiber (or fibre) glass.  

Mine had a three piece window replica made out of fiberglass panels that used the oem seal but the seal was rotten and were no longer available so this seemed like a more permanent solution.

I will grind the welds flush and fill and sand so it should look like it was meant to be that way.

[Oonrahnjay]

Mine had a three piece window replica made out of fiberglass panels that used the oem seal but the seal was rotten and were no longer available so this seemed like a more permanent solution.

I will grind the welds flush and fill and sand so it should look like it was meant to be that way.

     I said that I will soon be dealing with a fibreglass panel but really it's a number of mouldings (I have *really* got to stop this, I'll be back onto "tyres" next) that have been bonded together into a a fairly complex rear-facing hatch with fixed window with a rubber gasket and the whole thing set with a hinge at the top and a latch on either side so the entire hatch functions as an emergency escape for the upper floor.  It's not going to be easy but with the right planning and prep, plus the correctly sized Penin window, it should come out OK.

[Runcutter]

If I'm reading this right, you're thinking of cutting a window within the perimeter of the new window blank.  I may be wrong (it's happened before), but I believe that is a low-pressure area while driving, thus would have the tendency to suck in exhaust fumes.  I like the smell of diesel exhaust (preferable to the scent of the two women experimenting with aromatherapy on an airline flight a couple of days ago), but carbon monoxide comes along for the ride. 

It may take extra careful sealing, and a resolve to keep that window closed while in motion, but please consider whether that could present a problem.

Arthur

[Darkspeed]

If I'm reading this right, you're thinking of cutting a window within the perimeter of the new window blank.  I may be wrong (it's happened before), but I believe that is a low-pressure area while driving, thus would have the tendency to suck in exhaust fumes.  I like the smell of diesel exhaust (preferable to the scent of the two women experimenting with aromatherapy on an airline flight a couple of days ago), but carbon monoxide comes along for the ride. 

It may take extra careful sealing, and a resolve to keep that window closed while in motion, but please consider whether that could present a problem.

Arthur

Thanks Arthur, I had not thought of that.. It would only be open when parked but a leaky seal could cause an issue.

[zimmysurprise]

I was very concerned by the compound curve on the 4106 rear window but it turns out with a little heat and hammer you can make a flush blank from a flat sheet of 16 gauge steel.

I'm impressed by your metal working abilities. I too would like to replace my back window but the compound curve concerns me (probably more than you). I was leaning towards building a temporary casting of the glass to make a fiberglass insert. I thought with gloss paint and a large area it might be difficult to smooth the metal.

Did you shape it as you tacked it to the body or preform it somewhat?

Thanks!

[Darkspeed]

Thanks zimmysurprise!

I started with a slightly oversized pice of 16 gauge steel and used a strap to make it follow the existing shape.

I set the bottom edge of the steel into the recessed lip and tacked it in a couple of places.

Using a number of 50lb pull welding magnets to keep the steel sheet flush i tacked along the bottom.

Then I started in the top center trimming back the sheet with a cut off wheel until it was the right height to set in the top recess and did the same tacking process.

Next starting in the center point of each side with the same process.

The corners I applied a little heat, then magnets and it followed the contour very nicely.

It was a lot easier than I expected!

[Darkspeed]

Well it smoothed out real nice so it is possible to make a rear blank from a flat sheet.

Had to tap on a few high spots but just a few.

Because of the curve it sounds super solid when you bang on it.

Glad i did not go the fiberglass route I had originally planned..