I don't think you want to do the 4/0 cable thing. You're going to severely deplete the lower side of your coach batteries, and that can cause the upper side to get overcharged by your alternator. Do it the way Vanner shows, with the output from the equalizer. It will be limited to whatever amperage the Vanner is, but over time it will charge your house bank, and will keep the coach batteries equal. Second thoughts. Initially I thought you were going to run the 4/0 from the battery post, not the vanner post. I reread and looked at your diagram again, and maybe you meant attaching it to the Vanner 12v post. That's correct, however, you don't nee a 4/0 cable. You can size the wire to whatever the Vanner amperage is. if it's a 60 amp Vanner, you can use a 2 ga wire. Solenoid where you show is a good idea, also.
Richard,For 17 years and counting we have the power form the alt go to the coach bats and thru a relay and then the house (24v ) bats. The Vanner is needed only to keep the four house bats equal and supply 12v to the house. A bit different than your drawing I think.Works for us.Frank
Would there be any advantage to setting up our house batteries at 24v instead of 12v? Of course then I'd have to use the Vanner to supply current to the 12v systems, but it would allow me to keep the current 24v lighting that is in the bus already. Other than the 24v lighting, the only items on the house system currently are two 12-volt radios and a 12v fridge.
Do you have any of this equipment yet? If not...You have a big alternator already, why not access all that available power and design the house bank to that voltage?Or, if committed to 12 volt, why not add a proper externally regulated alternator and smart regulator to the engine...