Author Topic: MCI8 Door Lock Installation (Read 9511 times)

PNWorBUST72 · « **on:** February 25, 2018, 11:06:21 AM »

So I want to add a RV style lock to the MCI8 door.

There is no key or door release that I or the previous owner knew of so we need to open the door via a stick through the driver side window to release the door "lock" mechanism and then walk around and pull the door open.

There is a red knobbed lever below the driver side dash, that SAYS door disconnect but it does nothing.

When other have installed some sort of door lock, did you disengage the air lock mechanism?

luvrbus · « **Reply #1 on:** February 25, 2018, 11:15:45 AM »

My MCI 8 had a Ford lock from the factory used the doubled sided key just like the Ford pickups

buswarrior · « **Reply #2 on:** February 25, 2018, 01:59:54 PM »

Stick in the window?

Where's the button on the front of the coach to push the door mechanism over-centre?

For door lock install ideas, and lots more MC8 stuff, see Fred Hobe's builders pages. He converted dozens and dozens of buses for other people, back before the internet made it "easy"...

http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/fredhobe.htm

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 25, 2018, 07:35:34 PM »

Thats what I said, isn't there supposed to be some way to unlock the door for the driver from the outside? No clue, I am thinking maybe its under that "upgraded front panel" thing they put on but maybe never bothered to cut it out?

Anyone know if this upgrade front panel is an MCI thing or something aftermarket? It appears to be missing some moulding pieces to it as well. I will get pictures this week.

I plan on calling Fred tomorrow.

neoneddy · « **Reply #4 on:** February 25, 2018, 11:29:25 PM »

Are you locked out then?

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 26, 2018, 06:11:56 AM »

No,but I am not able to fully lock the door or close all the windows.

I am assuming that once I install some sort of door locking mechanism, most people disconnect the air locks?

buswarrior · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2018, 06:29:36 AM »

No, no and no.

Do not disconnect the air lock. The door will be sucked open against whatever mechanism you install, and whistle like a hurricane down the highway.

With incremental adjustments, you can make the door hard to lock with the handle inside, and it won't lock by pushing it closed from outside. And I mean incremental... the turnbuckle under the cover for the door arm is the adjustment.

MCI does not produce "tart yer bus up" panels. Completely aftermarket, and as you are finding out, short in the details, like trim and a door opener button...

Has anyone heard from Fred Hobe recently? Those builder pages were written back when the internet was AOL and dial-up for most of us... he was winding down back then...

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 26, 2018, 06:42:16 AM »

Ahh ok, Ill check out the adjustment then cause right now its gonna break a finger if it gets ya closing.

So the big silver handle has to stay too?

lostagain · « **Reply #8 on:** February 26, 2018, 08:08:23 AM »

You have to either restore the mechanism back to original, with the push button outside on the front, and the handle on the dash. Or remove that assembly altogether, and close the door with a handle mounted on the door itself, and have a deadbolt to lock it. In any case, I would not remove the air claw that draws the door tight when shut. As mentioned by BW, it is necessary so it doesn't whistle while underway. You mentioned that the red button under the dash doesn't do anything: you need to look into that. It controls the door claw. Do you have a maintenance and parts manuals for your bus. You need one.

JC

luvrbus · « **Reply #9 on:** February 26, 2018, 08:22:36 AM »

In the electrical panel under the drivers window at the top in the forward corner there should be a emergency release if it has not been removed and still works

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #10 on:** February 26, 2018, 08:51:08 AM »

Ill go look for that emergency button , its in the panel on the outside of the buss correct?

I have a Maintenance manual but am waiting on the parts one from coachinfo.com.

Does anyone have a pic of where the button in the front of the coach would be or looks like? I might have to pull that whole panel off....

luvrbus · « **Reply #11 on:** February 26, 2018, 09:20:23 AM »

It is not a button it is a pull cable like a choke cable used way back on vehicles it is in the upper corner of the outside electrical panel

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 26, 2018, 09:29:02 AM »

Quote from: luvrbus on February 26, 2018, 09:20:23 AM

It is not a button it is a pull cable like a choke cable used way back on vehicles it is in the upper corner of the outside electrical panel

Rgr that, thanks!

Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM · « **Reply #13 on:** February 26, 2018, 11:46:05 AM »

I used a Volvo truck door latch on mine. Fit perfectly. Check out your local junkyard.

Branderson · « **Reply #14 on:** February 27, 2018, 10:02:29 AM »

Quote from: PNWorBUST72 on February 25, 2018, 11:06:21 AM

So I want to add a RV style lock to the MCI8 door.

There is no key or door release that I or the previous owner knew of so we need to open the door via a stick through the driver side window to release the door "lock" mechanism and then walk around and pull the door open.

There is a red knobbed lever below the driver side dash, that SAYS door disconnect but it does nothing.

When other have installed some sort of door lock, did you disengage the air lock mechanism?

On my MCI8, I have that red knob lever that air locks. I lock it when I'm driving so the door won't fly open. I also have a small latch on the inside of the door that I close when I'm driving. On the outside I have a key lock that I lock when I'm outside.

chessie4905 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2018, 10:29:48 AM »

Our 1948 ACF Brill, the door was opened and closed by an air cylinder. You could also turn off the air to use it manually.

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2018, 03:44:54 PM »

So the hunt for the emergency release begins...

I traced two red air lines from the emergency switch up in the driver compartment to the solenoid looking thing in the spare tire area. But nothing to engage the solenoid or anything.

I looked in the elect5rical box under the driver side window, I didnt see any sort of "choke" type device, I know what you are talking about, I just cant find it.

Now the other picture is what I THINK is the interior portion of the outside button you press to unlock the airlocks. It appears that this bus was in some sort of crash and that might be why they replaced the fron end with this fiberglass shell. When that happened, they just never replaced the exterior button but I can see the hole through the frame.

Any idea on where I can find a replacement?

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 28, 2018, 04:49:26 PM »

So I tried to rig something up today but nada, looks like a need the plunger. I got the part number, where do we look for parts for these things?

buswarrior · « **Reply #18 on:** February 28, 2018, 06:23:18 PM »

Wrecking yard, or a busnut who has removed the stock door opener and still has the parts kicking around.

Make your own? It's just a rod and a spring?

That is a part that would last the life of the bus, i'd be shocked if they exist on a shelf!

Go back to adjusting the door linkage so the door will not accidentally click over centre when closed from outside, but the handle can be pushed hard from inside to lock closed. Then install the locking handle of your choice?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Jim Eh. · « **Reply #19 on:** February 28, 2018, 06:31:42 PM »

Funny, the picture of the "solenoid" almost looks like it is a speed actuated control. Did MCI ever use such a thing or perhaps an aftermarket affair?

chessie4905 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 01, 2018, 04:26:22 AM »

Check with Luke.

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 01, 2018, 10:39:41 AM »

MCI had a plunger assembly for $23, not my bus but for $23 I'll give it a go.

Fred Hobe information is all disconnected.

Who is Luke?

Is there a way to engage/disengage that solenoid to release the door from the outside? How can I check to see if it even works?

buswarrior · « **Reply #22 on:** March 01, 2018, 05:03:02 PM »

What is disconnected with Fred Hobe's info? 6 pages here?

http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/fredhobe.htm

There was no solenoid in a stock MC8 door mechanism. straight mechanical pneumatic analog system.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

buswarrior · « **Reply #23 on:** March 01, 2018, 05:38:23 PM »

Well, rats!

The bits on installing a door latch using tractor trailer door parts isn't there anymore?

not
happy coaching!
buswarrior

richard5933 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 01, 2018, 06:13:35 PM »

Luke is at US Coach in NJ. One of the best resources and supporters of the hobby. Great selection of parts, many NOS, at reasonable prices.

He can be reached at 856-794-3104

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 01, 2018, 06:16:22 PM »

Thanks Richard, I'll call them in the AM.

Fred's email bounces back and the phone number listed isn't he any more...I spoke to a nice lady today about it.

So the only way to open the door is using the plunger, no solenoid to open it?

scott332 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 02, 2018, 06:58:59 AM »

I rigged up a linear actuator and a steel cable to pull the release lever. My dad put together a remote Bluetooth control board to activate it, and I can open the door with my cellphone or tablet. I can also control some lights like the porch light and entrance lights with it. I was tired of having to unlock the padlock on the front door release button.

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 03, 2018, 03:29:46 AM »

US Coach is looking for a Plunger Assembly now...

Scot - Can you give some more detail there, I love the idea.

Geoff · « **Reply #28 on:** March 03, 2018, 12:00:27 PM »

I didn't read all the posts, but a lot of people use the Bargman RV door latch.

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 30, 2018, 12:03:54 PM »

Ok so I found a plunger assembly but I am not sure its going to fit.

Remember my coach has this stupid fiberglass front end and I THINK they put it right over the original metal so it"looks" much thicker through that hole for the plunger. But once I cut it out, I am stuck.

Also, I still can't get that emergency red handled solenoid working, any thoughts there? How is it supposed to work? Do I have to be running with a certain air pressure or anything? Key on?

Bus warrior - Any guides on how to adjust that door handle like your talking about?

buswarrior · « **Reply #30 on:** March 30, 2018, 12:20:53 PM »

The door air lock is air powered, those are airlines, so yes, you need air pressure for that bit.

Since your front end has been bastardized, forget the door button from outside. If you open that up with a new hole, how are you going to keep the hurricane from blowing through on the highway?

Focus on getting the door linkage adjusted so that the mechanical lock will not go over-centre without a really strong push on the door handle on the dashboard.

Door machinery is in the MCI parts manual.

Suck it up, no more research, dive in, take the cover off the door arm and put your big adjustable wrench onto that knuckle, and make 1/8 turn adjustments.
The knuckle will lengthen or shorten the door arm. The mechanical door lock is just an over-centre affair, so the longer the arm, the harder to go over-centre, shorter... easier, or maybe the other way around? Does it freakin' matter, just wind the knuckle, it is experiential, not cerebral?

Make sure someone is inside the coach when you test whether slamming it from outside will lock it...

You are adjusting a hair trigger, too much, the door won't be lockable from the driver's seat, too little, and the door will lock when you push it closed, or the wind blows it closed, from outside.

I found the camper door lock stuff, Fast Fred wrote it up. http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/FAST%20FRED.htm

happy coaching!
buswarrior

lostagain · « **Reply #31 on:** March 30, 2018, 12:50:04 PM »

When you close the door with the handle on top of the dash, it also opens an electric solenoid air valve that draws the claw to pull the door tight. This is as long as the red handle under the dash is pulled up. Pushing the red handle down dumps the air out of the claw cylinder for emergency exit. The whole thing only works with air pressure in the accessory tank (60, 70 psi). With the top handle removed, like in my conversion, I installed the electrical switch that controls the claw, in the electrical panel outside below the driver, so I can turn it off if I am locked out. It happens typically if you start the bus with the switch and the red lever up, go out to do something, then come back a few minutes later after the air pressure has past 70 psi. You are then locked out. So having the electrical switch somewhere accessible is better. You need to look at the manual to see where everything is located.

JC

Jim Eh. · « **Reply #32 on:** March 30, 2018, 07:56:15 PM »

The door on my 12 only seems to "clamp" when I release the parking brake. When I release the parking brake I hear a definite "thump" coming from the claw. It could also have a switch on the door control mechanism, haven't gotten that far forward on the build yet.
I don't think I have ever tried opening the door with the brakes released.

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #33 on:** April 12, 2018, 03:01:12 PM »

I still need to check the "clamp" part...

I adjusted the outer turnbuckle(looks like a tie rod end to me) and got the door to not lock, closed. I can shut it as hard as I like and it wont "lock" unless I push pretty hard on the silver door handle, so I can push it open.

Now would the inner adjustment help with the door locking open? Otherwise I have to push it closed partially from the handle and then grab the door to close it.

buswarrior · « **Reply #34 on:** April 12, 2018, 03:38:33 PM »

Quote from: PNWorBUST72 on April 12, 2018, 03:01:12 PM

Now would the inner adjustment help with the door locking open? Otherwise I have to push it closed partially from the handle and then grab the door to close it.

What does this last paragraph mean?

What inner adjustment? Locking open?

Does the door now operate faithfully from the driver's seat, using the door handle on the dash? Open,close, mechanically locked, and air lock claw grabbing the door tightly?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

windtrader · « **Reply #35 on:** April 12, 2018, 04:23:21 PM »

sorry to butt in but...

My MC8 door is adjusted so that the door will close to a point fairly easily then some effort is needed to get the handle pulled toward the driver and the door handle will "lock" and the door is securely closed. The claw on mine seems disabled so I guess it could jar loose if the bus got hit or tipped over.

The other thing is that push button on the outside, front and center, does open the door when fully pushed in.

PNWorBUST72 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 12, 2018, 07:29:21 PM »

Quote from: buswarrior on April 12, 2018, 03:38:33 PM

What does this last paragraph mean?

What inner adjustment? Locking open?

Does the door now operate faithfully from the driver's seat, using the door handle on the dash? Open,close, mechanically locked, and air lock claw grabbing the door tightly?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Locking open as in when the door is all the way open, its locked in that position. You need to manually start to close the door via the door lever to allow the door to close. You cannot simply pull the door closed, you need to get the lever to disengage that first inch and then you can close the door manually.

I got the impression there were multiple points to adjust the arm, maybe i was wrong. Is it possible to have the door "float" in both open and closed position so the lever doesnt automatically "lock" the door in either position?

windtrader · « **Reply #37 on:** April 12, 2018, 10:05:38 PM »

Quote from: PNWorBUST72 on April 12, 2018, 07:29:21 PM

Locking open as in when the door is all the way open, its locked in that position. You need to manually start to close the door via the door lever to allow the door to close. You cannot simply pull the door closed, you need to get the lever to disengage that first inch and then you can close the door manually.

I got the impression there were multiple points to adjust the arm, maybe i was wrong. Is it possible to have the door "float" in both open and closed position so the lever doesnt automatically "lock" the door in either position?

My door works the same way as described in the first paragraph. There is one adjustment on the bar that connects the door lever to the door. I'm sure it is a safety feature so the door can't slam shut on someone when open.

It is often annoying since you can not just close the door from the outside; you need to step inside and pull the lever to unlock the door. I plan to add a removable stop to the backside of the lever so it will stop short of that locking position. That way, the door can be closed without having to step and jog the lever.