Who has a Prevost?

[WoodenBoat]

Over the last few weeks, I've been sweating out how to place my cabinets and other interior parts and pieces. It's fun work but difficult at the same time. A lot of final decisions have been made as to how I will make the cabinets, how I will place the fridge, stove, coffee maker and so forth. Also, I've settled on fabrics and color combinations. Finally, I'm pretty decided on what I want my ceiling to look like but I'm not quite sure how to make certain that my work doesn't fall in the floor when I'm driving down the road.

So, I'm wondering if anyone within a reasonable driving distance of LBL would have a Prevost that I could look at?

It's an easy drive down to Nashville from my house. The Prevost dealer down there is huge because of all the entertainers coming and going on tours. There are also several large conversion companies that are building mulimillion dollar boxes. But I gotta tell you that these people do NOT want to talk to me about anything like this. You would think that I'm asking for their first-born or something. LOL

Anyway, that being said, if no one is very close, I will need to attend the next rally.

EDIT:

I just noticed that my location doesn't appear on this forum. I'm located near Lake Barkley, Ky. The closest town is Cadiz.

[Gerry H]

Dave: I have a Prevost, but it's a LeMirage XL and I'm not in Nashville, but I can tell you that with upper cabinets, I templated everything first with a process of cardboard roughs, then transferred to 1/8" hard board, adjusted then transferred to my final wood choice which was face-framed hickory. I put 1x3 back boards just like a house type kitchen cabinet and attached where possible to the ceiling ribs with brackets and screws. Not all early decisions are going to work all the way to the finish line, so as you go, take your time making decisions. I believe rework is a reality. Highly recommend going to a rally, it is definitely a huge  learning experience. Lots of ideas you may never have thought of (I go to the RV show each spring) and a lots of ways to do it. Good Luck with your conversion. Gerry H

[WoodenBoat]

Dave: ...I put 1x3 back boards just like a house type kitchen cabinet and attached where possible to the ceiling ribs with brackets and screws.

Yes, I call those back boards "cleats" because that's what we boat builders call them. Like you, I figured that I would use them but I wasn't sure just how to go about doing it and was looking for some input. My main interest is in strength. I want something that would take super man to take apart. LOL

[WoodenBoat]

I did a quick drawing on graph paper to show what it is I'm trying to accomplish. I'm old school. I don't have any of these fancy computer programs that allow folks to render anything they want. I have to rely on my drawing abilities but hey.... It works for me.

Anywho... the bus has a ceiling height of 77". I'm 6'1" so I don't have a LOT of headroom but I'm ok as long as I don't do calisthenics. Because of the arch of the ceiling, I thought maybe a false ceiling on the sides would allow me to make my cabinets and walls square and I wouldn't have to plot any curves anywhere. Also, the space between the false ceilings and the real roof of the bus, would allow me space to run all sorts of wiring. I could flush mount lights and stereo speakers and who knows what else?

Here's my drawing of what it is I'm trying to do.

[ABart]

robertglines1 has converted a couple of Prevosts.  The time or two that I have asked him a question, he has been willing to answer.  I believe that he lives in Indiana.

[WoodenBoat]

Thank you for that. Indiana might just be close enough to take a drive. I'll PM him.

[bandsaw]

Check out Marathon Mondays with Mal on YouTube. They have videos of all phases of the conversion process.  Thanks, Bandsaw

[daddysgirl]

I have a MCI, so disregard this if it makes zero sense, but for the ceiling, you can attach the boards to the roof ribs with sheet screws and cover the screws with finished wood strips, or glue/velcro a matching strip over the screws. 

[thomasinnv]

You want some form of separation between the inside finish ceiling and the outside structure. Exposed screw heads on the inside that are attached to the roof frame structure will sweat. I attached furring strips to the frame structure, then attached the finished ceiling product to the fur strips. That way there is no exposed metal on the inside that is attached to the steel  structure

[robertglines1]

your coach should have 2 inch plus spray foam roof and sides under bottom of bays. Still need a heat transferr break between roof frame and ceiling. Take a cheap heat laser gun (HF) and shoot the ribs and see a 40 plus degree differance. the roof ribs and sides transfer a lot of radiant heat/cold. I used the rolled bubble wrap type to break the heat transfer . I squares the first 2ft of the roof down Both sides full length(both prevo builds)  Nice place to hang cabinets from and use for electric runs. Made a 1 inch shelf set back between roof and side shelf for led strip lights to lay in. Let us know where your at now?

[dtcerrato]

No Prevost here just a GM 4104. Interior is dated, ceiling is 2/3 carpeted & 1/3 melamine (kitchen) but between the factory original melamine panels and our converted finish is 3/8" dense poly foam carpet padding. Killed all the structural rib heat transfer & up the R values by 3. That helps us heat & cool it with just one 13,500 roof unit.

[WoodenBoat]

No Prevost here just a GM 4104.

You say "JUST" a GM 4104? Are you kidding? That is a WAY cool bus!

My Prevost is not my first rodeo. I converted a GM 4103 years ago and I loved that bus. It was a 1951. There was a lot of flex in the walls though.

I'd love to see photos of your ceiling. We may both be thinking along the same lines.

[dtcerrato]

Hi WoodenBoat
Wasn't using the word "just" in a negative way.
Just trying to point out it's simplicity...
Only ceiling photos I have are the ones taken for the insurance company.

Dan

[TheHollands!]

Hey all, I don't have a Prevost but for upper cabinets I placed a 3/4" aluminium angle along the bottom edge for the cabinets to sit on. It helped me with the measurements and also for setting them in place. I reckon it gives them some sturdiness with downward force as we drive also. They end up being hidden by the front trim, which also hides the undercabinet lighting. Craig