Seized wheel nuts...

[robertglines1]

was that a tar sands bus?

[MagnoliaBus]

was that a tar sands bus?

No, started it's life as an American Coach Line bus in Atlanta, then moved northeast to Moncton or Fredericton (New Brunswick, Canada) city transit and ended up in North Bay (Ontario, Canada) as a Junior Hockey League transport bus. Have been siting there for about 2 years.
Had it towed on a Landoll for a 6 hours drive ( paid $1875).

[MagnoliaBus]

Safety glasses are your best friend.

Always !

[eagle19952]

a 1 inch gun needs 3/4 to 1 inch hose...
or you are not getting max output.

[robertglines1]

Dennis: your wires or stamped with a number. Get list from prevostcar.com  need last letter serial number plus last 4 numbers(unit number).need help with info let me know. in the tunnel front to rear bulkhead there should be open pvc  pipes to run wires thru.  be careful with that ddec easy to screw up. Voltage sensative!

[MagnoliaBus]

Dennis: your wires or stamped with a number. Get list from prevostcar.com  need last letter serial number plus last 4 numbers(unit number).need help with info let me know. in the tunnel front to rear bulkhead there should be open pvc  pipes to run wires thru.  be careful with that ddec easy to screw up. Voltage sensative!

DDEC wiring...

[chessie4905]

Wine??? You need hard liquor for this job.

[robertglines1]

mine was burned into at rear bulkhead. Looks like all the info you need.   There are allot of extra wires that you won't use.  If you have any ? please don't hesitate to ask..

[MagnoliaBus]

Buy a cheap torque multiplier 50 bucks on Amazon

Just received it from Amazon this afternoon.
Worked like magic. All ten nuts loosened under five minutes !

[Oonrahnjay]

  Just received it from Amazon this afternoon.
Worked like magic. All ten nuts loosened under five minutes !

     OK, now more fun.  As was mentioned above, now is the time to inspect every nut and stud.  If they were so tight that normal torque wouldn't remove them, there is a chance (a good chance) that the threads are "stretched".  For each stud, clean them and look at them carefully.  It's probably a good idea to measure them for consistent diameter, especially away from the ends of the threads.   After they are cleaned up and all loose rust removed, it would be a good idea to put a tiny bit of oil on the threads (if you're one of the people who thinks you should tighten them dry, you can clean them later; if you're a NeverSeize person, it won't matter) and try running each nut onto the studs by hand.  If they won't go on finger-tight or if they run easy for a while and then tighten up drastically, you have a problem.
      I would expect to change the studs and nuts but maybe you can get away with it and not have to.  If you're not feeling confident about checking them, pay someone to do it -- damaged threads on wheel studs or nuts are a bad accident waiting to happen in an inconvenient (or dangerous) place.

[DoubleEagle]

      now is the time to inspect every nut and stud.

Great advice. All that I would add is to torque the nuts to the appropriate level (less for aluminum, more for steel) with a torque wrench (a calibrated one, ideally).

[MagnoliaBus]

I won't inspect any of them, they are all going to garbage. It will be new studs and nuts on all 3 axles. As well as new bearings, and every parts brake related. What i will inspect is hub and spider (brake anchor plate).

[MagnoliaBus]

What i did for the left front wheel, is that i removed five nut and then loosened the remaing untill i saw a gap the thickness of a business card, then i turned the steering wheel from left to right a couple of time (no jack under the axle) and then there were no more gap between nuts and the wheel. Did the same thing 2-3 times and now the wheel is askew    So i know its not frozen on the hub !
Next is the brake drum...

[eagle19952]

Really ? Get a pitch gauge....

[MagnoliaBus]

Really ? Get a pitch gauge....

Yeah, a pitch gauge to check the king pin...