Author Topic: Considering removing the rails that the seats bolt in to. MC9 (Read 2525 times)

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **on:** March 27, 2020, 10:07:33 AM »

Hi guys.
Can someone talk to me about the ramifications of removing the rails along the sides that the seats used to bolt in to?

1984 MCI MC9

oltrunt · « **Reply #1 on:** March 27, 2020, 10:34:14 AM »

I'd be curious to know why you want to remove those rails. I found them very handy to use to secure the kitchen counters, stove and frig. I realize that take up a bit of width at the floor level and make building walls a pain because they have to be cut around but they can be quite handy. Someone else will have to talk about possible engineering issues with the bus itself. Jack

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #2 on:** March 27, 2020, 11:37:38 AM »

It's mostly the floor space. I'd rather not have to lift or modify everything I put in. That being said...you make a good point about anchoring things to it.

I'm curious about the technical implications...it looks like the cabin heat may come out of the driver's side.

buswarrior · « **Reply #3 on:** March 27, 2020, 12:33:42 PM »

Are you talking about the duct work, or the channel that the seats bolt to?

Removing the duct opens up the floor, but how are you going to stay warm on the road? Nothing beats the stock coach heat.

Going down the road, the heat gets sucked right out, many a busnut regret removing the duct work and the heating system...

And many don't mind. It all depends how you will use the coach, in what geography, and what the inhabitants have for expectations of personal comfort.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #4 on:** March 27, 2020, 12:57:18 PM »

So most of that stainless steel is the duct? Ok. I deffinately don't want to remove the heat. I'm wainscoting the walls and ceiling...I'll just start it above the ducting. It should still look cool

sledhead · « **Reply #5 on:** March 27, 2020, 03:35:41 PM »

I removed all mine . then installed a vent of my own to direct the heat to the front and back under the couch that was on each side of the coach . big mother fan under the floor that moves a ton of hot air and there are cold air return vents near the back of the coach on each side . you want to save the wire heat prob that is on the driver side near the back

this was on a M C I 102c3

dave

buswarrior · « **Reply #6 on:** March 27, 2020, 05:22:46 PM »

Quote from: TheHeavenlyChillbillies on March 27, 2020, 12:57:18 PM

So most of that stainless steel is the duct? Ok. I deffinately don't want to remove the heat. I'm wainscoting the walls and ceiling...I'll just start it above the ducting. It should still look cool

Yes, your picture highlights the duct. The floor and the wall make up the other surfaces inside.

Many busnuts will disassemble the panels, so as to clean inside, there will be a carpet of dust/goop/stuff along the floor. And then put 'em back. Be careful that you note their positions, they aren't all the same, and watch the split feed and air return ones, and the seal inside to keep the air flow correct. The rear of the coach will be cold, if you corrupt the feed/returns.

I will specifically disassemble mine, to be sure the return/feed in the back is sound. Previous owners, assembly line workers and the ravages of time cannot be trusted... many a seated coach are cold down the back, and don't need to be...

Make up a pattern/jig for its shape to facilitate constructing your interior.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #7 on:** March 27, 2020, 06:09:18 PM »

Great. Thanks for the info. Great idea to make a jig.

ol713 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 28, 2020, 09:04:09 AM »

HI;
I removed mine over 20yrs ago - - - - no problem
Merle.

ktmossman · « **Reply #9 on:** March 28, 2020, 01:57:53 PM »

Mine are coming out this week (hopefully)...but I also plan to provide anchor points for installations (seats, fridge, etc.) and new ducting in the build (MCI J4500).

lvmci · « **Reply #10 on:** March 28, 2020, 08:37:33 PM »

Hi Chillbillies, I kept mine, floor and low side wall seat hold downs, upper wall and ceiling luggage rails to anchor the lower cabinets. the seats anchors, kitchen and bath cabinets, and upper I-beams for wall securing. Then used the upper I-beams and low side seat rails for raceways for wiring, also, if the NTSB says it will hold seats and luggage in an accident from flying forward, it should keep my fridge and oven and shower from doing the same, lvmci...

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #11 on:** April 02, 2020, 04:27:41 PM »

Follow up clarification!
So the metal running along the floor...those are the actual ducts for the OTR heat? Where is the actual heater...by the engine? Still weighing the removal. With the current/new furniture situation that extra foot of space would actually be really handy. The bus doesn't really get driven in the cold weather.

I removed one of the panels and was expecting the find a bunch of ducting and wires. I'm trying to understand what Buswarrior was talking about when he said it connected directly to the outside.

richard5933 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 02, 2020, 05:05:51 PM »

Give this some serious thought...

You'd be surprised how many times at the start and end of a season we run the OTR heat, especially in the morning.

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #13 on:** April 02, 2020, 05:34:13 PM »

Where does the heat come from? Does this supply the hot air for the windshield defrosters?

What I'm wondering is if I can't just blow hot air from the rear to the front.

If it's disabling driver heat and defrost that's one thing...but the amount of times, if any, that OTR heat would even be a consideration on this vehicle is a few days a year tops.

I understand the value of it...I'm weighing the alternative. Lik having to permanently modify every piece of furniture going against a wall.

My thought is if the heat come in from the back I can just blow it up front for the few times it might be useful. Again...I'm not disregarding the value of the OTR heat ...just trying to make an informed decision.

buswarrior · « **Reply #14 on:** April 02, 2020, 05:37:37 PM »

There is currently a busnut attempting an emergency run for home to Canada all frozen up in Montana, running through a snowstorm, with no coach heat, the propane has run out, and the baggage bays are frozen shut, covered in ice, preventing filling the propane...

Choose wisely...

The coach HVAC guts are up front, to the rear of the front axle, under the bus. It is in behind the batteries, there is a little angled door in with the batteries for the air filter.

The fresh air comes in through those grates on either side of the coach, in the area above the battery compartment, and same on the other side.

The output from the HVAC enters the ductwork via a hole in the floor. Somewhere under the first or second duct panels from the front.

There is a return air portion from the rear, and the main intake is in the space where that ramp or step is immediately beside/behind the driver, centre of the floor.

I would be studying both the maintenance and parts books to fully understand the gift that the stock hvac is, before tearing it out.

Any time that the temperature is less than shirt sleeves, you will want heat in the coach.

Your choice is what is going to make that heat for you.

And, you never know when you might want to/be forced to, run.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

buswarrior · « **Reply #15 on:** April 02, 2020, 05:41:09 PM »

Your defroster heat exchanger is built into the dashboard. You have to maintain the piping that feeds the big coach heater, as the defroster lines are extended off those.

The trouble with a coach traveling, it gets cold in the back. Function of where the suction is when you hurtle a brick through the air.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #16 on:** April 02, 2020, 05:50:23 PM »

Let me ask you this. If the front, say 2 sections, of the duct were there. And the back sections were removed. Would the heater still function? Because leaving the front ducts intact and removing some in the back would actually solve my issue.

So the intake on the ramp would still be there...the actual HVAC system below would be intact...just removing some of the back ducting.

I am generally the only person in the vehicle when it's moving, the nature of my work/travel shouldn't take me anywhere near snow, ever...so if the back is a little chilly on occasion that's fine. If it still basically spits some hit air out and doesn't interfere with the defrost I should be ok.

(Please understand I'm not trying to argue

buswarrior · « **Reply #17 on:** April 02, 2020, 05:50:34 PM »

in your first baggage bay, the front wall is a plywood board.

Find the fasteners and open it up, the world will be revealed!

Run the coach, turn on the coach heat switch, and you'll feel where the air is blowing, now that you have a panel off.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

buswarrior · « **Reply #18 on:** April 02, 2020, 05:51:56 PM »

yes, you could keep the front and abandon the back.

Find the outlets, and see if it fits your design plans?

A boring box fan would drive some heat back there, should you want that.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

buswarrior · « **Reply #19 on:** April 02, 2020, 06:02:48 PM »

A further note, that plywood panel covers the HVAC fan cavity, the cavity is under suction when running. The plywood cover must be snug, tight and well sealed, or whatever is going on in that first bay, will be sucked up into the coach.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #20 on:** April 02, 2020, 06:29:35 PM »

Thanks for the info! Exactly what I needed.

I bought a queen sized bed that has drawers that come out the side and that 5 or did inches on either side will actually make a bid difference in functionality and overall movability.

So I'm going to keep the OTR heat up front and take out the back sections where the bedroom and shower are going. Thanks again for the help!

richard5933 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 02, 2020, 06:31:42 PM »

You could probably find another way to duct the heat to points in the rear of the coach, if you wanted.

If it's only the back bedroom that's the problem, then you could probably just terminate the duct at the wall/partition and cap it with a register through the wall pointing into the bedroom.

There is something really nice about pulling over for a break and having the whole bus warm - makes laying down for a nap more comfy.

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #22 on:** April 02, 2020, 06:39:56 PM »

I actually just ripped all of the walls out. It's going to be one big open space...so heating cooling should be fairly simple.

Now that it's all open the mini split I just put in seems to be cooling everything pretty well....and it's a black bus in Florida sun.

The new wanscoting and window treatments I'm putting in should make it even better heating/cooling wise.

I'll keep you all posted.

TomC · « **Reply #23 on:** April 07, 2020, 08:37:54 AM »

When I removed the under heating system (no A/C since it was a Portland, Or bus), I kept the big heater core. Had it pressure tested, then installed 2-14" radiator fans. Installed it lengthwise in the hall under my closet, and washer/dryer. Have 4-vents that just aim out into the hallway. I also have a ball valve to turn the water off to the heater core, but still allows water up to the defroster up front that also has a ball valve at the driver's seat. My point-you don't need any duct work for this heater. When it kicks on, I can count to 10 and start feeling heat at the driver's seat. Works very powerfully. Good Luck, TomC

TheHeavenlyChillbillies · « **Reply #24 on:** April 07, 2020, 04:59:23 PM »

Awesome. Yeah...I started ripping the duct work out today. I'm just gonna put little grates over the openings. The job is way harder than it needs to be. The big Philips head screws holding in the aluminum rail are just spinning...so there's a lot if grinding going on. Other than that it's moving along

Funny. I got my bus in Portland as well.

brmax · « **Reply #25 on:** April 07, 2020, 06:35:31 PM »

Hammering on those big Phillips head screws work like a charm for me except one. They are soft, so carefully follow up with lite hammering on a phillips bit to straighten it up for a secure Impact bite. let them have it!

Good day
Floyd