12K Btu 120V Mini Splits

[jap42]

Wow, I forgot to subscribe to this, lol. I have both units going. Humidity is my enemy, I dont mind the heat. Im going to get some shades but with both running on a single 20A circuit in the full open sun 80+ degree 80% humidity. Very comfy inside. Once the sun went behind the trees I had to turn it down, it got too cold.

You could easily build your own system but for twice the price of the mini split. I bought these units used but the same units are about 700 new with line sets.

I would not waste money on a brand name, no one will honor the warranty if installed on a bus which is a large portion of the cost. I could Replace one of these 2-3 times for what mitibuiti wants for the same unit. And they are hard to find in 120V.

If I can find a nice Diesel Gen Set I may upgrade the front unit to 24K btu. I want to be able to run off a 24V inverter so I can run them going down the road

[jap42]

Also, I did run one of them on my generac 2000W inverter generator. I tried a portable A/C on it and it would overload it when the compressor tried to start. So I was not very optimistic it would work with the mini split.

I was wrong. The load meter never went over 50% and I was able to run a fan and power tools as well. Its an inverter compressor setup so it starts up slowly and gradually. So there is no major spike.

The compress makes a little noise as it gets up to speed but once its running it no louder then my air leaks  . Its barely audible inside or outside. So far I am really satisfied.

[luvrbus]

80% humidity when we reach 30% during the monsoon season we think we are dying ,I grew up in Houston humidity I know and don't miss it

[jap42]

Welcome to Maine. Its ether Morbidly humid or snowing. We get a short break when the black flies come out. 

Here are some pictures of our setup so far. https://photos.app.goo.gl/weSsTD3qe3vkNGGy5

[luvrbus]

Welcome to Maine. Its ether Morbidly humid or snowing. We get a short break when the black flies come out. 

Here are some pictures of our setup so far. https://photos.app.goo.gl/weSsTD3qe3vkNGGy5

I think the ductless are good for DIY  cost wise, I don't like giving up the bay space for one.I doubt you ever see a ductless unit in manufactures conversions though,A good roof top now will cost a 1000 bucks, the cheaper ones like the Air Command they don't work here when the temps are 110F when you need it,I have seen the ductless units in the bays not work too picking up the heat from the payment  all gets down there no free lunch for HVAC in a bus

[Jim Blackwood]

I really do hate it when I lose my work. My mouse has a back button that's a bit too easy to hit accidentally but I'm learning.

My approach is not exactly conventional, I get that and it's nothing new. Usually I manage to make it work, and sometimes it works better than expected. Regardless I leave it to others to create showpieces. I'm more oriented towards blazing trails and I'm pretty good at it.

So while the AC system is a new challenge the bar isn't really that high. IIRC a new sealed solenoid will be needed for the main condenser (probably N.O. for safety) and the new compressors will need to be plumbed in. There is probably room for them in the condenser bay above the fans. Soft start is probably a necessary feature. With the oversized condenser it won't need a lot of air so fan speed and current draw can be low, in fact with just one unit running, convection might be enough. I'll do the plumbing and recharging myself. I'm fortunate to have a working OTR system with r134 refrigerant. I have about 2/3 of a 30lb bottle and can get more at a reasonable cost. If there is a leak in the system it can probably be fixed with a new compressor shaft seal, but so far so good and time will tell.

I'm leaning towards using three 18K btu compressors just because the bin units each have a 1-1/2 ton rating and the dash also has a 1-1/2 ton TXV even though the specs say it's a 1 ton unit. But that puts the total current draw up around 45 amps not including the fans which is getting a bit tight. Still it's a starting point. If what you guys have been saying checks out one or both of the rack units should be enough. (36K btu)

I like those rack units. I like the OEM storage bins. They are strong, functional and attractive and I feel they can be successfully integrated into the interior decorating scheme since most standing will be done in the center anyway as I have adopted a center isle floor plan. Plus they handle the air distribution. I will need to do a little ductwork to the rear for the bath and bedroom areas of course, but there is a lot of flexibility there.

My conversion plan is minimalist/functionalist in terms of using what is already there. For example, knowing that the water always runs out first, I have a 275 gallon square stainless box going in the rear bay. I found a 2" stainless deck fill for the side of the bus which should accept most water sources and not stick out like a wart. It's a straight shot into the tank. I just have 3 fittings and the lid to attach and it's ready to go in once it passes the leak test. I built that box from a left over tank I made for a 3D metal printer prototype and that's sort of illustrative of my approach. It will make us very comfortable about our water usage, and cost me about $200 plus my time. My approach to the AC is similar. Use what is already there, spend money on necessities, and try to improve on convention if possible. 275 gallons of water is somewhat unconventional, but the bus can easily handle the weight and certainly has the room. It is vastly overbuilt for my needs. The same goes for the AC, there is no way I will need 13 tons of cooling capacity, ever. But it is much easier to make an overbuilt system do the job than an underbuilt one. I figure my costs should come in around a thousand dollars, maybe a bit more.

Hmmm... this bus is beginning to resemble a boat. Oh well, Break Out Another Thousand.

Jim

[sledhead]

nice pics

with all them windows and no shades you are doing great .

nothing better on the market for low noise and you can slow the fan speed down no constant air blowing in your face with a split unit . if you want to spend a little more money you can get a 24" x 24" cassette instead of the inside wall unit that you could mount on the ceiling   
https://www.sogoodtobuy.ca/12000-btu-ceiling-cassette-air-conditioner-sena-12hf-ic/
( not 120 v but you get the idea )

funny about the humidity thing and where you live as my wife likes a perfect 50% or we adjust to get it there and 115 deg. that's not going to ever see me in it . maybe the phrase 2 levels down from hell comes from there

just kidding

dave

[luvrbus]

LOL we won't miss you Dave we have 1/2 CA here this week end playing in the river,hard to understand why people like my neighbors will drive up from San Diego to this heat,3 months of heat and 9 months of real nice weather I can handle the heat or go to Idaho or less than 200 miles to Flagstaff
 

[richard5933]

For shades, we cut pieces of Reflexit to fit the windows, and then use suction cups to mount them so they sit close to the glass. The suction cups we used are these: https://www.staples.com/FFR-Merchandising-Plastic-Heavy-Duty-Thumbtack-Suction-Cup-1-75-55-Pack/product_248674?cid=PS:GooglePLAs:248674&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=248674&KPID=248674&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9IX4BRCcARIsAOD2OB1cqMesjKLuGfLd2-2s_XJGS7ziA64FLtHVFLv77mnv1_aV-yUibNIaAkFNEALw_wcB&akamai-feo=off

Not the most convenient to put up, but we find that they do a great job of darkening as well as insulating so we leave them in place until we want to look at the view somewhere. Having a full set of OEM windows we needed something, and this fills the need.

[sledhead]

yup

we from the north think it is to hot to go outside after it hits 92 f or so or at least stay in the shade with a cold beer

this was on the MCI

how I did my outside unit that was duct ed into the old bus a/c door so the a/c would work with the bay doors closed and while driving
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yYynw3M6RuYAd5377

inside unit
https://photos.app.goo.gl/J1hc2Cx66Saerky78




dave

[richard5933]

Lol bring your 12,000 btu mini split to sunny AZ park your bus in the sun in the 112F heat at 4 pm now and in 30 minutes you will look like a roasted peanut ...

Why would someone park a bus in AZ in the sun when it's 112F outside? Isn't that the time of year you should be heading north?

[luvrbus]

Why would someone park a bus in AZ in the sun when it's 112F outside? Isn't that the time of year you should be heading north?

It will surprise you the people that like the friggn heat,in the 18 years I have lived here this only my 3rd time to be this late getting out of here last year I spent the whole summer and saw 121F and I never want to see that again ,  most of the summers I am laid up on the river in Idaho lol I am headed that way later this week I hope   

[jap42]

Guys out west never understand humidity.

I always get made fun of when I say "But its a dry heat." But its true. I am 6' 210Lbs Im not super heavyset but a little on the large side. I sweat like crazy. So on a 90 degree day in Maine I sweat. And because the humidity it 70-90% none of that sweat evaporates. I end up sticky and over heating, and theres nothing I can do about it except go swimming or take a shower and wash the sweat off.

Now out west its 90 with no more then 30% humidity. I sweat and it evaporates cooling my body. Then I can sweat more and regulate my body temp very easily. So I can stay comfortable all day, im not sticky and not over heating.

Hydration is the same ether way. I sweat the same amount in ether location, so I need to drink the same, which is a lot. But out west all I have to do is Drink More Water, In the east I have to find a way to cool my body externally or I will have heat stroke.

Sled Head: I like that setup, eventually if I ditch the OTR system all together I will modify the outdoor units to use that bay also. 

I really think finding the right inverters to power these are the way to go. I would replace the 50DN with a 50DN+ (450A) Which should have no trouble running these or a little larger. A small bank of batteries really to act as the buffer from the alternator and to allow them to run short periods without the engine. Like after we park and are getting hooked up, or at a fueling stop. Then of course we have solar options and more generator options. I could hook my old 50DN to a small quite motor and have a DC generator.

I could use a micro controller to stop the alternator field generator when going up hill or under heavy load to give more power to the road.

[Dave5Cs]

They are efficient removing humidly,in Needles the pot growers have from 100 to 150 of those units on their growing houses ,then they add make up air (evap coolers) on the roof to put the humidity back I guess those plants like high humidity and cool ,I don't understand the concept or reasoning.95 to 100 F is not bad here you know you will get a 40 to 50 degree swing from sunset to sunrise here in the valley,we get a taste of the high humidity for a few weeks and it is ugly

The plants can't take the heat and the cool temps and high humidity is less water used also no mold on leaves.
Similar to Tomatoes plants, Just enough water and heat to keep them alive. More at Harvest in September  
   

[lvmci]

Las Vegas is mostly dry, the Mojave desert is, just as Death Valley, the dryest place in the US. I grew up with swamp coolers, evaporative coolers, which add humidity as a process to cool the air. Here it works to about 25%, before it looses it's cooling effect. Heat pumps don't  cool enough in the hot summer, heat exchanging doesn't do well when it so hot. I just removed my front roof top Penguin that was 11.5Kbtu  and got a 15K to handle the big windshields.
     Nick what do you think about regional AC issues? lvmci...