Author Topic: Wood Finish Question  (Read 767 times)

Offline epretot

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Re: Wood Finish Question
« Reply #15 on: January 13, 2022, 07:05:21 PM »
Can't be certain, but from the video it looks as though the problem isn't with the finish. Looks like the veneer.

Replacing the doors will be the cheaper bet. I paint cabinets for a living. There are countless vendors online to reproduce that door. As another mentioned, waterlox is a great finish.

Stain to match if necessary then apply multiple coats of waterlox.

Also, you can knock that sheen down with wool lube by Mohawk. Apply to 0000 steel wool and rub until your fingers ache.

If you choose to paint, waterborne lacquer is a great finish.
2000 MCI 102 DL3
Loveland, OH

Offline windtrader

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Re: Wood Finish Question
« Reply #16 on: January 14, 2022, 10:12:47 AM »
@epretot - check your PM. wondering about some of the products you mentioned. thanbks
Don F
1976 MCI/TMC MC-8 #1286
Fully converted
Bought 2017

Offline Runcutter

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Re: Wood Finish Question
« Reply #17 on: January 15, 2022, 08:34:16 AM »
As a hobbyist woodworker, I use a variety of finishes. 

Recognizing the difference between stain and topcoat, (stain changes color, topcoat protects the wood), I don't stain anything. I use the wood(s) I want.  However, I recognize that oil-based finishes will darken the wood to different extents (a sample board I prepared shows more "ambering" with Waterlox than with Arm-R-Seal).  But, I prefer oil-based finishes for their richness, I don't use water-based finishes.  Individual choice.

Four-ought steel wool was mentioned for controlling sheen, but as mentioned it must be lubricated.  Rather than wool-lube, deluxing compound, rottenstone, I just use paste wax.  Each of the elements contains abrasives, the wax does not.  I'm partial to Renaissance wax, but Johnson's paste wax from the hardware store will do. 

The most recent pieces of furniture were rubbed out with 4-O steel wool and Renaissance wax, gentle pressure in small overlapping circles.  That flattens out the final coat of finish (dust motes) and does knock off a bit of the sheen.  I've applied finish with the sheen I want (semi-gloss, satin most often), so I'm not looking for dramatic change. 

The shine is brought back up to desired level with more paste wax, applied and buffed out with old t-shirt cloth.  That's just my training and experience.  Works for me, but there's also a thought that if you ask 5 woodworkers how they'd do something, you'll get 10 or more answers. 

Arthur
Arthur Gaudet    Carrollton (Dallas area) Texas 
Former owner of a 1968 PD-4107

Working in the bus industry provides us a great opportunity - to be of service to others

Offline Dave5Cs

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Re: Wood Finish Question
« Reply #18 on: January 15, 2022, 08:54:55 AM »
Howard Feed & Wax. Bees wax and orange oil. Works nicely for all our Bus wood work. We have solid Red Oak. :^
"Perfect Frequency"1979 MCI MC5Cs 6V-71,644MT Allison.
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 60th Anniversary edition.
1998 Jeep TJ ,(Gone)
 Somewhere in the USA fulltiming.

Offline epretot

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Re: Wood Finish Question
« Reply #19 on: January 15, 2022, 03:18:57 PM »
Man...you guys are speaking my language with finishes.

I just spent 3 hours figuring out how I'm going to get a drain from my kitchen to the back cargo without putting a hole in something important.

Can't wait to spread paint.
2000 MCI 102 DL3
Loveland, OH