What is the best way to get Waste Tank out MCI

[Jerry32]

I am up to the point of the wast tank and need to know if there is a best way    Jerry

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

1- 1/2 stick of Dynomite, light fuse, run like heck.......


Sorry, I couldn't resist....

Jerry, if you are removing a MCI tank, then it takes alot of effort to cut the stainless straps that hold the tank.

It was the better part of a day to remove my tank. Bi-metal sawzall blades work well.

Good Luck
Nick-

Where is that spell checker!

[Dallas]

A plasma cutter comes to mind, and if it doesn't do the job, then at least it was a good excuse to buy new tools!

[Devin & Amy]

Jerry,
I remember there being a little problem with the interface between the floor of the bus and the floor of the restroom. The Bi-metal blades for a sawzall are a must, now and in the future. My neighbors are happy to remind us of the two really LOUD days spent removing the thing.

Good luck.
Devin

[Jerry32]

Yes I have been wondering about that rest room floor and I do have a plasma cutter but would have to get some 240V to it though. As tough as that SS is I think dynomite would just make it bigger..Maybe I will just try the big side grinderand see how noisy that is. I have been keeping the neibors going with impact wrenches and air chisles. When all else fails get a bigger hammer. Sometime earlier some mentions something about two bolts on the tank removal but don't remember who. Jerry

[Gary '79 5C]

Use Nick's solution, Just Remember to park it in front of the neighbors house when you light the fuse.....
I would think the Plasma is the most effiecnt tool out there.
Good Luck
Gary

[ChuckMC9]

Sometime earlier some mentions something about two bolts on the tank removal but don't remember who.

That may have been me. It ain't that hard, and doesn't require "Terminator" - style tools.

You have to chip away at the fiberglass shroud enough to get to four bolts. There are two on the south side of the tank, and two on the north. (I decided a long time ago to start using N-S-E-W to identify "directions" on the coach.)

The south ones are pretty obvious, the north ones are almost hidden - they are at the very front and secure the front strap. You might have to get at the northwest one thru the inside floor hatch.

After disconnecting all hookups, you can pop the rivets where the top of the chute meets the seat, and the whole thing just drops down for removal thru the side ER door.

Be sho to spray it as clean as possible from the inside and drain before you start!!!

No, it ain't fun but it ain't that bad! 

Old clothes, an afternoon, and it's done.

Good luck!

[ChuckMC9]

PS: That's a separate project than the RR floor.

When you're ready for that, repost, and we can help with that in a jiffy.

[Jerry32]

I have the rivits out of the chute and top part of the RR is gone and out the window. all the RR walls are gone but still a water tank behind where the mirror was.   Jerry

[belfert]

I was lucky.  My bathroom tank was totally empty and dry.  I was suprised to see no evidence of TP or bodily fluids, but it had certainly been used based on rust from urine.  Lucky I didn't have to dump the tank as the air dump was rusted shut.

The three years or more the bus sat at the dealer was likely why it was so dry.

Brian Elfert

[Hartley]

Plasma cutter is the "miracle" tool....

I wish I had one the week that I spent trying to cut a couple of holes in my RTS...

I spent a week with an air body saw and lots of 24tpi blades ( the black ones that lowes sells! )...

I did one later with a plasma cutter and it took 10 minutes.

I have one now and what a pleasure it is to slice and dice...... ( Mine runs on 120/240 ) but uses an external air supply.

Enjoy....

[Jerry32]

I spent the afternoon taking out the bolts that hold the straps for the tank. I got rid of all the hoses and rivits and the tank still would not come out. seems it's jammed between the fender of the tag and the chute won't clear the hole. I guess tomorrow I try some hydraulic power to it as jumping up and down on the chute didn't make it happen. Jerry

[ChuckMC9]

If you're sure you got all four bolts, and the chute is wiggling at the top where it met the inside surround, and it's loose at the bottom where it meets the tank I can't think of what else would be holding it all up there.

Now it has been several years, but it seems that once I took that final bolt out it all fell down and surprised me so much I banged my noggin.

Did you remove the fiberglass cover? Maybe that's wedged in there somehow.

[Jerry32]

I did not remove the cover as I didn't find a way to remove it as the screws were stuck. I did pretty well mutalate it to get to the hidden bolts onder the cover. I found at first the tank was setting on the tag low air switch so jacked it up and removed the switch but still not enough room to get the tank out. The neck of the chute is just about flush with the deck area it was sticking through but wont make the last little bit of travel out of there. I think I will take the day off and do something else and maybe and idea will come along.   Jerry

[ChuckMC9]

Ok, I *might* remember something else. I can't be certain about this at all, but there might something like a huge hose clamp that goes all the way around the bottom of the chute to clamp it onto the tank. Seems like there might have been a bolt that clamps it tight. I looked back at the old photos of it in the dumpster, and you can just make out the flange at the bottom of the chute.