A/C

[CAROLINABOY]

Just don't know what to do  I was told that basement units are not reliable wanted to keep the top of the bus as clean as possible.

[tekebird]

thger eis nothing wrong with basement units.  other than they being more expensive than roof mounts

[luvrbus]

I never heard any thing bad about basement air expect losing some bay space do you have to cut a vent in the side doors I have seen them with and without.Anyway I used  the Cruisaire split systems to keep my roof clean

[TomC]

On my truck conversion, I'll have a 24" basement that I'll mount Duotherm ductable Penquins.  The condenser on the Penquins are set up such that you can duct out the hot air since it uses a squirrel cage blower for the hot air.  Will just duct both the cool air and the return air with the thermostat inside.  Then you have the cleanliness of no roof air, the cost of using roof air, and still the convenience of quick change out if one gives out.  A 14,000btu basement unit is about $1700 compared to the 15,000btu Penquin that is about $850.  Plus, Duotherms have 3 spd fans for extra quiet at night.  Good Luck, TomC

[H3Jim]

Since I have front to back, roof mount awnings, and the low profile roof top A/C's, you can't really see them from the ground, so there is no issue about having unsightly roof top units.  There is more than one way to skin the cat...

YMMV

[kingfa39]

Tom c, what kind of truck conversion??
Frank Allen

[Lin]

I do not particularly care about the look of the roof, so that is not a real factor.  Also, with a 35 footer, giving up bottom space is a big issue.  We have two roof airs.  I consider it a pretty serious compromise though, since I have always found them too noisy .

[CAROLINABOY]

i have a GMC RTS 06 6V92TA 40'   I plan on buying the 26000 btu duotherm heatpump I will be putting it in the back where the factory a/c went plenty of room and can duct the air and return thru the back and not loose anyroom I would like to hear more comments good or bad thanks.

[Len Silva]

I had a Duotherm basement unit in my 4104 and now have two ducted roof units in my Vogue MH. I hate the roof A/C's. They are noisy, vibrate, and drip condensate when it is very humid (all the time in Florida).  We cannot sleep with the rear unit running so we run the front at night with a box fan to the rear.  Not very elegant and no privacy if we had others sleeping in the coach.

My next coach will have basement air.  Roof top units would be a deal breaker.

Len

[TomC]

Frank- I'm using my old truck- 1985 Kenworth 90" Aerodyne cabover that I'm going to stretch to 283" wheel base and have a 32ft studio type box (looks like a freight box, but with skirts) made with the rear being a sloping ramp to carry a car like a Mini inside.  The truck has a Caterpillar 3406B 400hp with 13spd that I will change to a Allison HT740.  With the 3.55 rear ends, I'll have a comfortable 65mph cruise at 1837rpm.  Good Luck, TomC

[NJT5047]

If you have a roof raise, rooftops are a bad idea.  May be too high. 
If no roof raise, rooftops are cheap, easy to maintain, and noisy.   In spite of the noise, they are very efficient.   
Basement air is quiet and nice...but, at a cost...$$$$$$$$$$.
And the loss of half a bay. If that's a problem.   And the cost of space for the ductwork inside the living area. 
Lose one bay to the waterworks, another to the basement AC, and if you want a big genset, which you'll need to dry camp, there goes another half bay.   
I've got two Dometic rooftop heatpumps that I'm quite pleased with.    They are about 6 years old now and in any temps above 40*, they are great. 
There are also split systems available.   They are a little less complex than basement ACs. 
My next bus (E45... ) might have some sort of basement AC or split system.  Once past 12' of roof, anything adding to the height may result in butt-puckering. 
Where are you located on North Carolina?  I'm near Charlotte. 
JR

[CAROLINABOY]

I'm actually between Charlotte and Hickory I would love to see your bus if it would work out sometime

[Dreamscape]

We have three older roof air units on our Eagle installed by a PO. If it were me starting from scratch I would go with the basement type. I have heard much quieter and you don't have the warts on the roof to get knocked off by low branches. The cost is higher up front I have heard but well worth the cost considering all the factors. I kind of agree they are not the best looking, but what ever your budget allows will work. Besides whenever you need to clean them or do repairs you are on the roof.

Paul

[JackConrad]

   We went with the basement air for a several reasons. We do not like the looks of the roof airs, and with a roof raise, they would be more susceptible to overhead obstructions. I have a hearing problem when there is any background noise (such as roof air fans), making it difficult to listen to TV or carry on a conversation when AC is in use.
   We sacrificed the rear baggage bay for AC and plumbing. Th AC unit takes about 1/3 of the bay. The rest of the bay has the water and holding tanks as well as the water heater and water pumps. Our generator is in the OEM condenser compartment. We have the front 2 bays my tools and whatever SWWNBD wants to take with us.
    We purchased our unit from RonTheBusnut as a "Scratch&Dent'. I think we paid about $800 for the unit and probably about another $150-175 for duct material and vents, etc.  This system has worked great for us for 9 years and still going strong.  YMMV Jack

[steamguy56]

so on a non roof raise could you conceivably, put the duct work in the upper corner, there will be large valance in the corner any way. Tight curve on the prevost. Had decided on three roof airs(45') and just bob and weave down the hall. open for any suggestions. I think this ? fit on this thread.