Waste Motor Oil for fuel.

[luvrbus]

You guys are sure trying to hurt my Exxon/Mobil stock lol but go for it I don't mind they will sell you the rug

good luck

[Paso One]

In my case I have used kerosene yes it works great but it is so close to diesel you may as well pay for diesel  

RUG isn't?? 

Hi Oonrhnsay

I have never bought "RUG " specifically  for my blending I tap my car club buddies for the old stale gas they drain from the latest "project " vehicle  they purchased  

I also drain my collector cars  / lawn mowers etc prior to storage. I  use that gas for blending

Don't forget I am a cheap  bas * tard  :0  or I'd just burn HHO or turn on the shop gas furnace

[happycamperbrat]

so what about the generators, heaters, stoves that can be run on wmo? anyone running those?

[wal1809]

I had at one time aspired to buy a gen big enough to run my house but soon figured out there isn't enough oil for all my ideas.  Maybe after I retire I could start a rendering company, hire a collector and just skim the good stuff for all my ideas.  Then sell the rest.  But for now It is strictly my vehicles.

[Paso One]

so what about the generators, heaters, stoves that can be run on wmo? anyone running those?

Hi Teresa
If you google Lister diesel running on WMO or WVO you will find a bunch of people using the old single cylinder turning about 300RPM powering generators.  The Lister diesel is as old as the Detroit diesel and is as affectionately loved as the Detroit:)

[JohnEd]

This has detailed testimonials going back to 06.  There must be more going back further but the further back you go the more all the data seems to be "this worked for me" stuff".

The really big deal is water in the oil.....it has lots.  Waste oil bins in shops are treated as "WASTE BINS" and oil is not always a component of what goes in them.  Eth. Gly antifreeze mixes in with the WMOL and renders it "fire proof".  That contaminated shop blend is lurking for a unsuspecting "blender".  KNOW you source.



http://www.biodieseldiscussion.com/?cx=partner-pub-2633097455068883%3A47x6l23pend&cof=FORID%3A9&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=waste+motor+oil+&sa=Search#920

[wal1809]

Either know your source or find a way to get the various componants out of the oil. 

EX: I used to have my vacuum super sucker connected to a smaller tank with its own hose.  I called it a glop sucker.  At the time I was super picky about what oil I would collect for oil use and then I used the glop sucker to get the crud off of the bottom of the collection barrel.  Now I collect it all and let it settle, draining hte nasty glop off of the containers I store them in.

I also used to spend a lot of time dewatering and filtering the oil being sent to my WVO container.  I don't do that anymore, I just let time settle out all the junk and run it through a filter into the bus.  I do of course check for water but have yet to have a water problem after settling for a good while.  Remember, oil with a lot of free fatty acids will suspend a lot more water than a low acid count oil.

I am no authority but I would imagine settling will take a lot of your impurities out of the WMO.

[JohnEd]

I understand your logic.  What I seem to be hearing is that no matter how long you settle WMO, the instant you blend in RUG the WMO starts to drop out all sorts of crap.  They also blend before they filter.

Mind you now, it is not I that takes any issue with what you said.  How do you do it with your WMO fuel?

What vehicle do you run on WMO blend?  Seems that IDI and DI both work long term.

Thanks,

John

[Paso One]

Either know your source or find a way to get the various componants out of the oil. 

 I just let time settle out all the junk and run it through a filter into the bus.  I do of course check for water but have yet to have a water problem after settling for a good while. 

I am no authority but I would imagine settling will take a lot of your impurities out of the WMO.

I do both know my source, and.....

Unknown sources I settle out for sure.

After settling out I drain the crap and water out, then hook my pump to do the filtering etc...

In my case I hvae lots of storage space so I am in know rush to settle out and use so I settle longer than the normal person.

Wal1809 you may not be an authority but you know what your talking about.  same thing in my boat.

[JohnEd]

Wal1809 you may not be an authority but you know what your talking about.  same thing in my boat.

Well!  I guess you have him fooled.

John

[wal1809]

Wal1809 you may not be an authority but you know what your talking about.  same thing in my boat.

Well!  I guess you have him fooled.

John

Now Johned that is simply good humor!!  I chuckled.

[wal1809]

Oh yeah back to your question.  I run WMO at very very minute amounts in every diesel engine I have.  When  I drain the oil I keep it.  I run it through a 5 micron sock filter and let it drip onto a big magnet.  Then I will put 1 or 2 courts in a full tank.  I only do this if I am running Diesel.

[wal1809]

Thank you paso one, I will chalk that up as a nice compliment!!!

[happycamperbrat]

I know about the Lister diesel gens, but I was wondering about a more modern Honda or something.... no?

[JohnEd]

I asked for experience with WMO blend that was peculiar to specific engines.  There is a world of info out there and people have spent hundreds of hours testing these things in real life.  The following is only one answer:

Tom,
 
I`m not familiar with the Mazda engine and the positioning of the injector in the (pre)  combustion chamber, however a problem that occurs with Mitsubishi IDI and  engines using the Ricardo Comet type combustion chamber,  is that when run on blend, due to the positioning of the injector which is recessed 2 or 3mm in order to keep the injector tip out of the heat, is that a disc of carbon forms in this recess and eventually blinds the injector, making for difficult starting, rough running, overheating and a smoky exhaust.
 
Here are some genset engines I have used in the last 8 years with a brief outline of performance on 80:20 sometimes 90:10 blend.   Perkins 6-354 DI, not enough load, added oil to sump,smoky.  Paxman 4RQ IDI, difficult to start, injectors blinded every 40 hours.  Lister FR6 IDI, very difficult to start ran hot. Foden FD6 two stroke, very smoky and produced vast quantities of tar in the exhaust. Paxman 6RW IDI, injectors blinded, 1000 cu inch engine, too thirsty ! Perkins 4-270 DI, the ideal engine, starts quite well is matched to the load and economical.   A 2.5 litre Ford DI engine which is used to drive a 20Kva auxillary generator,  generally on light load, adds so much oil to the sump that I have it constantly draining into a drum when running, this engine starts easily in the coldest weather.   Both the Perkins 4-270 and the Ford start to smoke after 8-10 hours run depending on load, my way of clearing this, is to load the engines fully then slowly inject a couple ounces of diesel into the inlet manifold, this clears whatever it is causing the smoke, maybe carbon whiskers growing on the injector.    Like you I have experimented with the injection timing, advancing the 4RQ 2 degrees had a marked effect on the ex manifold temp but made it even more difficult to start.   One thing I have learned is that the engines need to be operating at or near their rated power output for best results.
Mark.

This confirms a thought that kept nagging in the back of my mind.  Short trip from front to back but....  That thought seems to be confirmed in this post:  Different designs and different engines within a given design are not compatible with WMO blend.  The biggest problems with the different designs seems to be happening with the IDI engines.  They coke up and "shade" the injector after a time.  Contradicting this conclusion is the Mazda diesel that is IDI and runs clean and efficiently in a small Ford truck and does that at varieing loads, as you might expect.  DI engines do much better, as a rule, but the worst performer came from this group.  The condition of a particular engine seems to come to bear and this fuel can fail drastically.  That translates to an in-frame at the least.  And that is a lot to be putting on the line for any reason.

The last comment by the poster Mark is about performance being associated with loading the engine.  His observation is that the blend performs better if the engine is under heavy load.  The DD 2 stroke is a breed of engine that does poorly if run at light load....it carbons up badly I am told.  That breed of engine has done very well in spite of its inherent flaw of needing to be beat or run hard.   Maybe the two stroke and blended fuel were made for each other. ??

I have blended some RUG and WMO and will let it settle for a few days at 100 F till I take a sample over and have it analyzed.   I can't see where this testing would prove conclusive in any way as the quality of the oil isn't controlled and whatever is found will be little more than of interest to me.  And its my money and time, right?

John