Coming unhinged! Not me - my MC9 battery door - Need more help!

[plyonsMC9]

Good evening bus folk.  

Battery bay door opened 'weird' the other day.  Didn't think much about it.  And then it simply fell off yesterday.  What a blessing it wasn't on the road!  

I thought there would be some kind of rod or metal hinge holding it on.  I guess not?  Truly just an old rubber hinge.?  

To fix, I came across this from Fred Hobe - is this still the best way to fix this, or are there other methods?

(search for "Replacement for rubber hinge")

http://www.coachconversioncentral.com/fredhobe.htm

Help!  Thank you all.

Kind Regards, Phil

[Tony LEE]

After months of keeping the door in place using rope tied across it, I just replaced the rubber hinge. Took a few minutes (but apparently can be a cow of a job) and if it lasts another 30 years that will be good enough for me.

[plyonsMC9]

Thanks very much Tony.  @ 30 years it may outlast me!   

Kind Regards, Phil

[plyonsMC9]

Luke had the part of course (rubber hing)  - US Coach :  1-888-262-2434.  So easy to order - I kept adding items - - ended up w/ socket, clearance light lenses (figured may as well replace those as well), etc.  Also received hints on the installation of the hinge.  Now that was fun.      

Kind Regards, Phil

[Frank @ TX]

Hi Phil,
I replace mine about every 5 years.
The first time was the most trouble.
The rubber dried into the grooves and I had to work it all out.
But after that the old rubber pulls right out and the new rubber goes in smoothly.
I bought the rubber from Luke and have enough for two more replacements.
It takes me about an hour to do it all including getting all the supports and soapy water.
The rubber goes in real nice, and the beer is still cold.
Good luck
Frank

[plyonsMC9]

Thanks Frank,  I appreciate your experiences & notes. It all helps. 

Kind Regards, Phil

[RJ]

Phil -

One of the secrets to installing new rubber hinges is to make sure that the tracks are clean!  Many busnuts have used .22 rifle cleaning brushes with excellent results.

Dawn dishwashing soap diluted 50/50 in a spray bottle, keeping both the track and the rubber wet as you work it makes the job easier.

KY jelly is another favorite lube for this insertion.

FWIW & HTH. . .

 

[olebusman]

  I use wire pulling lube from Lowes   olebusman

[plyonsMC9]

This has not gone well!  These 30+ year old parts are being difficult.  

So every one of the screws holding on the track with the rubber hinge, separated, and the heads were all severed.  

We originally tried to re-drill holes & make a set of new holes and thread those.  However, we ran into issues trying to drill into the (stainless steel?) tubing.  It's a difficult angle to drill upwards in direction.  

Now we're debating whether drilling out the severed screws is a better course of action.  But that could create other problems, possibly stripping the threads in the tubing.

Bah! Not to mention that stupid rubber is cemented to the metal parts.

Help!  Suggestions are welcome.  

And thanks very much to all who have responded, once we get this re-attached we'll be able to test some of the suggestions for getting the new rubber strip back in the strip.  

Kind Regards, Phil

[Lin]

I am not sure I understand. Maybe it is different than on my 5a. What screws do you mean.

[plyonsMC9]

Thanks Lin, when it brightens up, I'll attach a picture showing what is going on. 

Kind Regards, Phil

[gumpy]

I did mine and a friend's last year. I didn't remove the screws, but did have to pry one end out a bit past the fuel door to get the rubber in. I used a utility knife to cut the old rubber out
in pieces.

Wish I had thought of the .22 cleaning rod and brush trick mentioned above.

[plyonsMC9]

Thanks Craig for the suggestion about the utility knife.  I just wiped out my new small dentist hook tool trying to pry out the old rubber.  It's almost like the rubber is part of the metal frame.  Maybe the original hinge?  Utility knife is my next trick.

I've attached a picture showing a few of the severed heads of the screws which used to hold the other part of the turn rubber hinge. 

My plan is now to get the old rubber out and new in before Tuesday, when I meet a stainless steel guy who can extract the screws (or drill new holes?) so I can remount the metal strip which will be (hypotheticall) holding the new rubber hinge. 

Kind Regards, Phil

[plyonsMC9]

For anyone searching this thread in the future, Craig's suggestion re: the razor knife worked perfectly - even for rubber that looked & felt 'original'.  Saved me hours of trying to use pick tools & others.  I did use the pick tools tho' to help pull out the rubber after I had made some significant cuts to it.  That and pliers.  Thank you Craig!  I've worked some on the 22 gauge rifle barrel cleaner/wire brush.  I can tell that idea is a success as well.  I just have a rusty screw to get out then I'll finish up cleaning up the door channel.  Then in with the new rubber. 

Thanks again to all who contributed! 

Kind Regards, Phil

[gumpy]

By the way, there should have been a couple set screws in the ends of that channel. Cut the heads with a chisel and punch them out. You don't need to replace them. Cut the rubber a bit longer than you think because it will actually stretch as you put it in and then will shrink and leave a gap on one end.