Emergency Hatch Issues

[PNWorBUST72]

So I am still in demo and trying to  pull the back ceiling panels but there appear to be additional rivets that are giving me a hell of a time.  Its like someone went and added a ring of additional rivets, they are totally smooth, I cant punch them through.  Am I going to have to cut the ceiling panels to get them off?


https://imgur.com/V4zwmfv

[buswarrior]

What's the trick needed to see the pic?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[DoubleEagle]

Center punch them, and drill them out. There are many kinds of rivets in different metals, these are simply tougher rivets. (I clicked on the address and it came up fine on Windows 7).

[Geoff]

I saw lots of things.  The bus ceiling, a kitten being bad, a pit bull that's adopted.  However, I don't know why you are trying to remove the old insulation.  It looks like you could just add to it.

[PNWorBUST72]

I am ripping the bus down to studs and sheet metal.

[Jim Eh.]

I believe those are buck rivets (solid) and expand outward when compressed (hammered). When you drill them out be careful to not go too big if you want to reuse those rings and install the same style rivets.

[Oonrahnjay]

  I believe those are buck rivets (solid) and expand outward when compressed (hammered). When you drill them out be careful to not go too big if you want to reuse those rings and install the same style rivets. 

       Yes, and they look countersunk to me.  As Jim says, be careful - be very careful (and know what you're doing).

[eagle19952]

I am ripping the bus down to studs and sheet metal.

Were I you...i would get a saw/sheet metal shear. and clearance the hatch area...and look around to see what's there. a die grinder with a 1/32" thick wheel... oscillating cut  off tool ?
I would leave those rivets, they appear to retain the hatch...what if they are structural ?
I assume you will not reuse the sheeting that is now the ceiling ?

[PNWorBUST72]

I am NOT reusing the ceiling panels, so you are suggesting I cut around the rivets leaving them intact so that I can get the rest of the panel down to see what those rivets are holding?

Hopefully I can get to that today...thanks.

[buswarrior]

Ok, I can see it on the laptop, not my phone...

So long as we're discussing those small ones in the ceiling panel, put in around the hatch opening...

Just rip 'em out. MCI used those more discrete rivets to strengthen/back-up that trim around the hatch opening. Over time and abuse, you can see how the ceiling panel could sag and sneak out of the trim around the hatch.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[eagle19952]

I am NOT reusing the ceiling panels, so you are suggesting I cut around the rivets leaving them intact so that I can get the rest of the panel down to see what those rivets are holding?

Hopefully I can get to that today...thanks.

i would. if retaining the hatch...you won't have to redo...
if not a chisel will make short work of it.

[PNWorBUST72]

They were just to reinforce the escape hatch, I dont plan on keeping it anyway.

I did have to BFH them out but the ceiling panels are down now. 

[B_K]

They were just to reinforce the escape hatch, I dont plan on keeping it anyway.

I did have to BFH them out but the ceiling panels are down now. 

I'd seriously rethink that if it were mine! Those escape hatches could mean life or death in more ways than one. (especially the rear one)
In an accident where the doors are jammed and not able to be opened, a roll over, or if a fire should break out preventing you from getting to the front of the bus those escape hatches will be very handy! (granted it would still be a challenge to get off the roof, but I'd rather break a leg or ankle jumping/sliding off the roof than die in a fire!)
Also insurance companies sometimes frown at those being done away with.
  BK 

[RJ]

They were just to reinforce the escape hatch, I dont plan on keeping it anyway.

I'd seriously rethink that if it were mine!

I concur with BK on this one.  Our rear hatch is still intact, and I find it invaluable for getting on the roof from inside, without having to prop a ladder against the side of the coach.

It's also handy to have for changing clearance light bulbs, pop it open, climb out, then I lay flat on the roof while changing the bulbs - IMHO much safer than 10 feet off the ground trying to work around a ladder.

If you're planning on putting a roof A/C in it's place - it's too big, you'll have to fabricate support structure.

But do it your way!

FWIW & HTH. . .

 

[DoubleEagle]

I'll go further: you need to think of an emergency escape route for every reasonably possible emergency situation. If the coach ends up upright in a crash or fire situation, a roof hatch is possible, but not practical without a ladder or something to stand on to get out, and then there is the 10-11 ft. drop to the ground. (In the case of elderly passengers, handicapped individuals, obese persons, and young people, it is not always possible for them to get out of a hole 6-7 ft. up). A knotted escape rope or rope ladder might be handy for roof escapes for those that are physically fit. If you have side windows on both sides that open up enough, that would be the preferred way to get out. The distance to the ground from the bottom of the window is about 7', and that would permit someone to back out while hanging onto the bottom of the window, and only drop a foot or less (for an adult). If the coach ends up on its side, then the roof hatch is very handy because it is then half-way up the side wall, and is accessible when the coach is laying on either side.

I really think that there are far too many conversions that have no escape possibilities (or not enough of them) in the rear of the coach. Even when there are emergency escape windows present that came with the original coach, they may be covered-up with valances and blinds, and the escape latch is not accessible or working.