Keep OTR Heat or Not

[Jcparmley]

I am trying to design my HVAC plan.  I am debating if I should remove my OTR Heater by removing the core and gaining that bay space, or keep it.  I had considered adding some duct work to the OTR Heater and blowing it outside (basically using it as another radiator) during the hot months or on a long climb.  Is this worth it?  Or should I remove it, gain the space, and plumb it for in cabin heat like "TomC" has done.  THis is a quote of TomC describing his system.

"For bus heat going down the road, I used the heater element from the over the road A/C system I removed. I remounted the element going for and aft at floor level in the hallway under my hanging closet. I have 2-14" 12v radiator fans to push the hot air out. Also have a ball valve to cut off the coolant to the element in summer. Works very well to heat the bus. Good Luck, TomC"

What are your thoughts?

[richard5933]

Both our current bus and our previous one had the OTR heat. We have OTR a/c as well. Wouldn't do it any other way.

If your heat is working, then why mess with it? You've got the best way to heat the bus going down the road, no worries about fabricating something new that won't work as well, and you'll be warm front to back. You'll also have a working defroster and warmth up front for the driver/co-pilot.

To me, have a working OTR heat and a/c is one of the things that gives a bus conversion a huge advantage over a S&S motor home. Why struggle with something makeshift if you've got something that works already.

[Jcparmley]

I don't think my ac is working correctly so I am most likely going to take that out.  When I gutted the bus I threw away the stainless ducts/registers.   Now I wish that I hadn't.  I see your point about using the heat while driving.  I just need to make new ducts.  Any suggestions on what would work?

Both our current bus and our previous one had the OTR heat. We have OTR a/c as well. Wouldn't do it any other way.

If your heat is working, then why mess with it? You've got the best way to heat the bus going down the road, no worries about fabricating something new that won't work as well, and you'll be warm front to back. You'll also have a working defroster and warmth up front for the driver/co-pilot.

To me, have a working OTR heat and a/c is one of the things that gives a bus conversion a huge advantage over a S&S motor home. Why struggle with something makeshift if you've got something that works already.

[dtcerrato]

We totally agree with Richard on keeping the OTR heating & ventilating system. That includes the ducting. We abandoned the A/C portion at purchase of our bus, got a discount & didn't want the independent 4 cyl engine running an 85,000 btu Trane compressor - more maintenance records on it through the years then the bus! The factory heater portion is priceless in cold weather and we used the factory ducting for our recently purchased Atwood Excaliber 2 stage LP furnace when boondocking. Nice thing about the factory dusts is cutting registers in the floor to heat the bottom compartments...

[Jcparmley]

Unfortunately I removed the original ducting.  Perhaps I can make some.

We totally agree with Richard on keeping the OTR heating & ventilating system. That includes the ducting. We abandoned the A/C portion at purchase of our bus, got a discount & didn't want the independent 4 cyl engine running an 85,000 btu Trane compressor - more maintenance records on it through the years then the bus! The factory heater portion is priceless in cold weather and we used the factory ducting for our recently purchased Atwood Excaliber 2 stage LP furnace when boondocking. Nice thing about the factory dusts is cutting registers in the floor to heat the bottom compartments...

[sledhead]

I made my own ducts on top of the floor under the couches I had on each side of the couch .I left the return ducts that go to the back of the coach . tons of heat when you need it . 1/8 " tin foil card board . cheep and easy to work with

on the Featherlite if I don't turn on the aqua heat when its cold and I am driving there is not enough heat ? and that's with a 550 hp engine pushing me ? dumb set up ??

dave

[jraynor]

Unfortunately I removed the original ducting.  Perhaps I can make some.

What year/model is your bus? My OTR AC still works and I kept the duct, but I probably wont be using it. I have other plans for a duct system, just not 100% sure what it is yet. I actually have all the parts do the duct, including the rear ramp where the return starts

[buswarrior]

Sledhead, none of the 4 strokes make enough heat, unless there's a load in the coach. ALL of 'EM have a Webasto/Proheat in them to supplement the coach heat. Runs automatically as needed when engine is running, pre-heat is the bonus feature.

Deadhead empty Toronto to Kingston one sunny winter day, a tall H3 45 with a S60 detroit and allison, set cruise at the limit, lots of time to save the boss some fuel, never reached operating temperature in 3 hours... as soon as I loaded the hockey team, their gear and supporters, right up to temp, once we got back on the highway, and "aux heat" light finally went out.

Like your wipers, you only need 'em when you need 'em, but when you need warmth, you REALLY want it.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[buswarrior]

Jraynor, don't throw stuff away until yer done... common error, valuable raw material as the work continues, or, as you found, you change your mind.

As noted, nothing beats the stock system. Few busnuts bother to maintain the AC portion, lots of $$$ needed to return to operation, and to keep it operating. Highest maintenance item historically in the Greyhound fleet...

Without the proper rear ductwork, it will be harder to get the heat into the rear of the coach well distributed.

It is common for the separator in the duct at the rear to be compromised, the half-assed design of some years, easily leaks between top and bottom, especially if anyone ever worked on it during a floor covering replacement, so the return and supply short circuit and the heat doesn't get back there.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[luvrbus]

Nothing beats the factory heat and air but setting for months it can drain the old pocket book every year to keep it going and the ducting system can get nasty,for heat the diesel fired with heat zone exchangers is the way to go if you can stand the noise of Webasto

[jraynor]

Jraynor, don't throw stuff away until yer done... common error, valuable raw material as the work continues, or, as you found, you change your mind.

As noted, nothing beats the stock system. Few busnuts bother to maintain the AC portion, lots of $$$ needed to return to operation, and to keep it operating. Highest maintenance item historically in the Greyhound fleet...

Without the proper rear ductwork, it will be harder to get the heat into the rear of the coach well distributed.

It is common for the separator in the duct at the rear to be compromised, the half-assed design of some years, easily leaks between top and bottom, especially if anyone ever worked on it during a floor covering replacement, so the return and supply short circuit and the heat doesn't get back there.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

yeah I still have pretty much everything that ive taken out stored in the bays. Only scraped a few things I was sure ill never need. I still have a majority of the luggage rack metal as well.

For my OTR, I'm considering ducting it to the roof and using the luggage rack fans to push it front/back. My OTR heat would be the same. For camping AC I have a 26kBTU basement unit I place to duct to the ceiling with closeable vents to distribute the air as I need and probably pull the return from the OTR system. For heat I may back feed it through the OTR return system since heat rises. Would work well for the bedrooms that would be near the return vents and probably a space heater in the front. Space heater is more convenient and less space than piping a heat system in. Still all in the air right now though

[buswarrior]

Heat won't sink...

Heat has to be delivered at the floor, or there will be a layer of cold air at the floor, while your head sweats, and that's where the co-pilot's feet are...

Certain disaster, end of the road, if there are cold feet...

The luggage rack fans will swirl air around at that height. If you extend the intake to floor level, they will mix better, and be of more use during AC use?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[jraynor]

Heat won't sink...

Heat has to be delivered at the floor, or there will be a layer of cold air at the floor, while your head sweats, and that's where the co-pilot's feet are...

Certain disaster, end of the road, if there are cold feet...

The luggage rack fans will swirl air around at that height. If you extend the intake to floor level, they will mix better, and be of more use during AC use?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Yeah the OTR Heat will have a slight modification of how it will work. Maybe a similar duct redirection flap that can be switched with the seasons

[Jcparmley]

I have a 1989 MCI 102c3

What year/model is your bus? My OTR AC still works and I kept the duct, but I probably wont be using it. I have other plans for a duct system, just not 100% sure what it is yet. I actually have all the parts do the duct, including the rear ramp where the return starts

[jraynor]

I have a 1989 MCI 102c3

I still have all of the original duct pieces that came out of my 1986 102A3. I don't currently have any plans for it other than scrap at the moment but im sure shipping would be quite a bit depending on where you live