Author Topic: DIY Fuel Polishing  (Read 2993 times)

Offline richard5933

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DIY Fuel Polishing
« on: September 23, 2021, 05:58:59 PM »
Found my primary filter covered in what looks like brown sludge/mud. Obviously I've got something growing in the tank. A dose of biocide will take care of whatever's growing in there, but then I'll need to get it out.

One method is to simply keep running the bus and changing the filter frequently. That doesn't thrill me.

So, anyone have a good way to rig up a fuel polishing system which can help remove as much of the crud as possible?

I guess another option is to pump out as much of the fuel as possible after treatment with biocide and then refilling. But, not sure how I'd get rid of the 150 gallons currently in the tank. Even with this method, I'd still want to pump some fresh fuel in & back out to try and remove as much as possible.

Dropping the tank is NOT an option.
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

Offline tr206

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2021, 04:29:53 AM »
Is there a drain plug? If so drain it put some fuel in agitate it someway and repeat.
Build back better not working we need to make American great again. Lets go Brandon!

Offline chessie4905

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2021, 04:48:08 AM »
Let's see...40 plus year fuel tank. Buy some plastic drums, remove fuel, slide out tank, clean, add some brocade refill and move on.
Fuel polishing? Just a catch term. Two fuel filters on GM's are fine for 50 plus years. Change secondary every other time.
Those new style filters can be useful for the newer engines, but an unnecessary expense on yours.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

Offline richard5933

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2021, 05:13:26 AM »
Let's see...40 plus year fuel tank. Buy some plastic drums, remove fuel, slide out tank, clean, add some brocade refill and move on.
Fuel polishing? Just a catch term. Two fuel filters on GM's are fine for 50 plus years. Change secondary every other time.
Those new style filters can be useful for the newer engines, but an unnecessary expense on yours.

You make it sound so simple..."slide tank out"

Given my limitations, that's not an option right now. I was looking for an option for removing the crap in the tank once I kill all the biological content so I wouldn't have to change the primary every few hundred miles till it's cleared up.

I was hoping that someone had a way to clean the fuel and return it to the tank. The concept is simple - a pump and a good filter. My question was really to find out what others have used to accomplish this in the past so I didn't waste time/money on crap pumps and filters.
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

Offline Nova Eona

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #4 on: September 24, 2021, 06:02:13 AM »
If your tank has a drain spigot, you could hook up a line to that, run it to a separate filter mount and pump, then just cycle it right back into the filler neck and run that for as long as you like, changing the filter at intervals.  You wouldn't use any less filters, but could do it all at once.  Alternately, slap a 'priming pump' on the line in the engine compartment and re-route the primary filter's output into a temporary line outside the bus going back to the filler neck.  Either way, easiest cleaning method is just to run it through filters designed for the application.

"Bus dialysis"

Offline buswarrior

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2021, 06:03:09 AM »
You're asking in the wrong place.

The marine folks are the place for fuel tank remediation.

If you are keen to build a rig, a pump, a couple of filter heads in parallel and some cast-off drums will run the fuel around and around. It is the ongoing liberation of the gunk that is going to be the problem, as time goes on.

If you want to just get on with it, go camping, and get it all cleaned out, get to the coast or riverbank, and employ one of the dedicated services to clean your tank, and return to regularly scheduled programming?

This site is the boat equivalent to BNO and BCM:  https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/

Tons of reading, some different solutions to the same problems.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

Offline luvrbus

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #6 on: September 24, 2021, 08:18:32 AM »
Put the chemicals in and buy you a used fuel/pro 320 install it and be done but there should be outfit in your area that does fuel cleaning but your are not going to save any money over just dumping the fuel on a bus .The company that does it for me on the generator sets on the coast in Texas vacuums all the fuel out  (280 gals) steam cleans the tank then processes the fuel for about 6 hours for $1250.00 ea plus the filters used lol some time it cost 8 bucks a gal AT&T pays or I would buy new fuel.If you don't clean the tank it comes backs     
Life is short drink the good wine first

Offline 47hound

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2021, 09:34:59 AM »
I polish my fuel every time I drive down the road. As someone suggested earlier, install a Davco type fuel filter housing and carry extra filters. You'll be able to clearly see when the filter is in need of replacement, and it is easily done in a few minutes with only a filter wrench.  Patrick.

Offline chessie4905

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #8 on: September 24, 2021, 04:36:44 PM »
tank is not that difficult to remove if you can access the 12? vertical 3/8 capscrews that attach the cross bows to the side channels. Through the fuel door, you can remove bolts that secure the filler neck to top of tank. If the floor access panel is still there above it, you extract the filler neck assy, disconnect fuel gage wire and fuel line. Then slide tank out drivers side of coach. Empty is best. Hard to remove layer of sludge and dirt from bottom otherwise, due to tank baffles, which are at every tank strap. Straps are not disturbed during removal, BTW. I did my tank when switching to the 165 gallon one. Was significant crud on bottom. Fuel is pretty clean nowadays compared to years ago at stations.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central

Offline richard5933

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Re: DIY Fuel Polishing
« Reply #9 on: September 24, 2021, 05:46:30 PM »
tank is not that difficult to remove if you can access the 12? vertical 3/8 capscrews that attach the cross bows to the side channels. Through the fuel door, you can remove bolts that secure the filler neck to top of tank. If the floor access panel is still there above it, you extract the filler neck assy, disconnect fuel gage wire and fuel line. Then slide tank out drivers side of coach. Empty is best. Hard to remove layer of sludge and dirt from bottom otherwise, due to tank baffles, which are at every tank strap. Straps are not disturbed during removal, BTW. I did my tank when switching to the 165 gallon one. Was significant crud on bottom. Fuel is pretty clean nowadays compared to years ago at stations.

For a combination of reasons, including not having the physical capability of handling the tank and no willing help available, it's not coming out.

Not saying that it's an impossible task, just that it's not one I'm willing and able to do right now.

Understood that it is the gold standard of getting a tank clean. For now I'll have to settle for bronze (or maybe just plain tin.)
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

 

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