Bus Barn Ideas

[Tedsoldbus]

Rita calls our bus "Debt", and although it was her idea, (I think to get Debt out of the driveway), we just put up what I call the bus barn. (She calls it the Shrine for Debt.). Being a team player and the fact I love her very much, I did not fight her wish to get the bus out of the driveway....
It is a Carolina Carport on steroids to keep it affordable. I put the door offset so I can put the fishing skiff and other things in the front of the building and off to the right side for the winter. It is 26 wide and 45 long. We pour the apron next week since it is going to warm up, and will probably put a shed roof off the right side this fall if lumber costs ever go down. Power and water are at the end of the driveway and we will get both in a month or two. The power will come into the building on the left side right about where the panel and 50 amp will be. The 50 amp will be right next to the bay door where I need to plug in. I have ideas of lighting and sockets but solicit ideas from all, especially those who have done it and have a list: "I wish I had put in "X" if I had it to do again.".
My electrician comes in about 2 weeks. I am renting him a lift for 2 days. Mostly because I like him and partly because some wire will have to go in the rafters. I need to get the electricity as done as I can because the spray foam guys come in mid April. I was told these buildings drip from the roof if you don't spray them and it tightens up and insulates the building. The building is mostly for storage and we are trying to save a little money so it will just have a frost free water bib outside of the building but no inside plumbing. It will have an electric oil filled radiator with a fan behind it to blow hot air under the bus when it gets cold but no other heat.
What am I not thinking of?
Thanks guys

[buswarrior]

Lots of lights, on multiple switches, so you can put a little or a lot, lots of plugs down the walls, on lots of breakers.

Piping some air lines in copper around the perimeter comes in handy, along with the robust shop air compressor, and box the noisy (born of unwed parents) up to keep the noise down, or put it outside completely.

A bus barn is a lovely thing!

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Tedsoldbus]

Great tip on the compressor. Thanks. Will set it up to put it under the shed roof outside.

[rancher]

Spray foam is nice if its in the budget. Metal buildings get frost on the inside of the roof and like to drip. If you use standard fluorescent eight foot lights use the HO or cold start so they will come on at any temp. I myself haven't started changing over my shop and building lights to LED. I do have LED dusk to dawn yard lights. Plenty of 110 and 220  outlets is a must. You might want a welder some day. I am a 3/4 inch copper air pipe line on one wall of my shop it handy. I have my shop compressor on the cold side of my shop its nice not to listen to it run. You will enjoy the new building.

[Jim Blackwood]

If you can lay hands on some pallet racking that can be very handy.

Jim

[freds]

Metal Building that looks a fair distance away from the house.  So also consider power to point that you will have an external WiFi link pointed at the house and a access point inside the building.

Of course you could also have some Ethernet cable ran and do power over Ethernet instead.

I suggest a NanoStation & AirCube AC as I sort of use the same setup with my bus for RV park WiFi.

There's a good video on setting this up at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGLwwREDzNQ&t=898s

We deployed that same setup at a friends place in his barn and serviced RV's for a get togethers by installing the AirCube in the window.

[Tedsoldbus]

Had not planned wi fi there. Barn is 1/4 mile from the house. Again I am thinking mostly storage. Keeping the pine pollen off, mudd daubers out, sun off the 40 year old paint, not sitting in the driveway when it gets below zero like this morning... etc
I will bring it to the house a few days before a trip so the Rita and do all the Rita things. Spray foam is spendy. About 5.5K for the entire building. Running the utilities up the driveway and the dirt work and slab are required for whatever type of construction we chose so that zeros out. But the building and foam were 1/3 the cost of doing wood! Now I just have to try not to throw up when I buy the PVC for the water line. A 10 foot pipe that was 17 dollars two years ago is $48 now! THAT was a surprise I hadn't counted on! Petroleum product or what? I chee wa wa...

[Fred Mc]

Put in LED lighting (8 footers like the flourescent) Besides costing less to run they give SIGNIFICANTLY more lighting.I replaced all shop flourescents with LED and the difference was AMAZING.Also shouldn't have to EVER replace them (given the likely amount of use it will get)

[Tedsoldbus]

Rita picked those up for my birthday....since the barn wasn't enough of a present. I am putting probably too many sockets. I expect extension cords still work. We figured out this morning about the noise of the compressor. It will be outside the building in a little shelter. Also picked up on sale at Wally World this morning a shop light that sits on the floor but articulates in case I need a bright light on something. It is LED and about blinds you to look at it! I think that is about all a guy can buy any more is LED?
I was not going to paint the whole floor but thought it a good idea to put something down from the apron to past where there will be leaks since oil and trani fluid like to soak into concrete. Maybe 20 feet or so. Any suggestions on what to put down that rinses off well?

[Dave5Cs]

concrete sealer and epoxy floor paint

[Busted Knuckle]

Please tell us that the roof has some type of vapor barrier under the metal.
If not your going to have problems down the road. Maybe not in your lifetime, but metal roofing will rust if spray foam is sprayed directly on it. Metal sweats and that condensation has to have somewhere to go. We always put a vapor barrier (of the customers choice) like double bubble, house wrap or vinyl back insulation on the purlins BEFORE the metal goes on.
It's hard to put it on after the metal is attached. You could run it between the trusses, but you will still have some exposed that will create a little moisture.
  BK 

[freds]

Had not planned wi fi there. Barn is 1/4 mile from the house.

If it's line of sight or light brush 1/4 mile is very doable just have a nanostation unit on each end, could do 3-4 miles with that setup..

Maybe add alarms and security camera's?

[muldoonman]

Built my Barn before I built the house. Insulated 40' x 60' with 14' x 14' doors. Wife kinda freaked out but what the hay.

[windtrader]

Those square doors make it look much smaller. LOL

[Tedsoldbus]

I showed Muldoon Man's shop to Rita. I got "the look". So I said what I always say "whaaaat?". She said "He has 2 doors which means 2 buses. You have ONE 14 foot door." I love her, but she is from Jersey.
Safe neighborhood with lots of big dogs and watchful neighbors but will have one camera inside and one out. Sign says "Comb your hair, Try to look Nice.." and has a camera picture on the bottom of the sign.
I'm sure Busted Knuckle is correct but I got 3 bids. Two of the vendors said metal drips and that I needed to do vapor barrier on the roof, or foam. They said water forms due to change of temp and foam on metal does not allow air against the metal so it can not condense moisture. I guess we will find out. Well...not me. I am 65.
I hear ya Fred (s), but I am low tech. I will take my 5 CD player and all my bluegrass and country CDs to the barn.