Question about Giant Heat Exchanger removal

[Sebulba]

Hello All,

We are making steady progress on our conversion.  I have the wheel chair lift is now removed, so we have gained another useful bay.  Also the Air conditioner compressor is removed (198 lbs).


Now I am wondering about the removal of the over the road HVAC parts in the area adjacent to the fuel tank.  I have opened the door in the rear bay and looked in there and then closed it slowly so as to forget I ever saw it.

Now I am getting braver and wanting to get this stuff gone, thus lightening my load and gaining some useful space.

My question: is there a valve (or 2) that isolate the giant heat exchanger so that I can remove it without much coolant loss.  If so, would the valves be close to the heat exchanger or? 

Also any other tricks/advise you may have for this removal project are welcome.

Thanks, as always, for your generous help

Seb

[chessie4905]

start by shutting off the large gate valves in engine compartment.

[Sebulba]

start by shutting off the large gate valves in engine compartment.

Super, I have a feeling they may already be off since I have never had heat in this baby.

Seb

[richard5933]

What are you going to do for a windshield defroster? Or, are you leaving that heater core up in the dash?

[luvrbus]

What are you going to do for a windshield defroster? Or, are you leaving that heater core up in the dash?

Bad move if he removes the dash heat

[Sebulba]

What are you going to do for a windshield defroster? Or, are you leaving that heater core up in the dash?

So far that one is still there, although, I haven't figured out how to get heat (hot water) to flow through it yet.

Seb 

[Sebulba]

Bad move if he removes the dash heat

I agree, that is a good thing to keep.

Seb

[buswarrior]

If the big valves in the engine room are closed, there is no hot coolant flowing anywhere forward, so no dash heat either.

You must cap the lines leading to the big heat exchanger, and maintain the lines that branch off to continue the journey to and from the dash. Work backwards from the very edge of the heat exchanger connections to figure out a good place to cap them.

Both of those exchangers, heat and AC, will get you some proper scrap money.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[dtcerrato]

We love our toasty oem otr heat at dash (defroster) & cabin...

[Sebulba]

If the big valves in the engine room are closed, there is no hot coolant flowing anywhere forward, so no dash heat either.

You must cap the lines leading to the big heat exchanger, and maintain the lines that branch off to continue the journey to and from the dash. Work backwards from the very edge of the heat exchanger connections to figure out a good place to cap them.

Both of those exchangers, heat and AC, will get you some proper scrap money.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

Perfect!!!  That's what I kind of suspected was the case, but it's good to get confirmation.

Thanks a million,

Seb

[Sebulba]

We love our toasty oem otr heat at dash (defroster) & cabin...

Yes, would be most beneficial while driving.  Because we didn't want to open any worm cans, we never opened the valves.  We were cold back in November and December when driving it, but we didn't/don't know if there are coolant leaks in the heating system.  I am very systematically and carefully using and exploring systems. 

As far as the heat goes.  I was/am pretty sure those big valves in the engine room are closed.  My logic, if there is a problem if I open them, I will be cold on the side of the road.  If I leave well enough alone and don't touch them I will still be cold, but at least still moving.

Every time I look at or work on something on this big machine I learn more.  It's a wonderful adventure, and the help you all give makes it even better.

Thanks

Seb

[RJ]

As far as the heat goes.  I was/am pretty sure those big valves in the engine room are closed.  My logic, if there is a problem if I open them, I will be cold on the side of the road.  If I leave well enough alone and don't touch them I will still be cold, but at least still moving.

Seb -

So here's what you do if the coach is road-worthy:

Before cutting anything out, or otherwise dismantling the heating system, take the bus out for a short local drive, five to ten miles is sufficient, basically enough to get everything up to operating temperature.

Once you're back in your driveway, shut the engine off for a minute, go back and open the gate valves, then fire up the engine again, put it in fast idle, and go back inside to turn on the heating system, including the defroster. (Don't forget that valve at the floor by your left heel!)

Get out of the coach and start checking all the coolant line's routing, looking for leaks. If you don't find any, well, now you know you've got a defroster that works. If you do find some leaks, you're in your driveway, not cold on the side of the road.  KISS principle!!

FWIW & HTH. . .

RJ

[richard5933]

If your MCI is anything like our GM, you'll need to check the rubber hoses which connect the defroster core to the hard copper lines for condition. They are easy to miss since they're hidden in the dash, and they are a potential leak point.

[epretot]

I removed the items you mentioned last summer. Here is how I bypassed the heat exchanger.

You can see the two copper caps I sweated on. This was discussed in my build trlhread I think.
This allows fluid to run to the front.

Also, one of the shut off valves in the engine compartment is more easily accessed from the trap door in the rear of the bus.

Another pic of it empty and painted.

[Sebulba]

Seb -

So here's what you do if the coach is road-worthy:

Before cutting anything out, or otherwise dismantling the heating system, take the bus out for a short local drive, five to ten miles is sufficient, basically enough to get everything up to operating temperature.

Once you're back in your driveway, shut the engine off for a minute, go back and open the gate valves, then fire up the engine again, put it in fast idle, and go back inside to turn on the heating system, including the defroster. (Don't forget that valve at the floor by your left heel!)

Get out of the coach and start checking all the coolant line's routing, looking for leaks. If you don't find any, well, now you know you've got a defroster that works. If you do find some leaks, you're in your driveway, not cold on the side of the road.  KISS principle!!

FWIW & HTH. . .

RJ

That sounds like a sound plan of attack.

 Thanks

Seb