well, I bought a bus

[TNBrett]

So, this weekend I drove 400 miles to check out a '64 MC-5.  I spent several hours checking things out, and eventually my wife and I decided that we wanted to buy it.  We settled on a price with the seller, and we are now the proud owners of a huge project.  This bus needs a lot of work.  It's an older conversion, I'm guessing in the early 80's, but most of that will need to be gutted and redone.  We'll probably reconfigure things quite a bit to better suit our wants as well. 

All that will have to wait.  The first priority is getting it roadworthy so we can get it back home to Tennessee.  We did manage to get the engine started.  That was a challenge in itself on two group 24 batteries, and some seriously sketchy battery cables.  The 8v71 could use a tune-up, I've done that before on a couple of different 53 series.  It built air pretty slowly at idle, but I want to address a couple of air leaks before I condemn the compressor.  It did better at about half throttle, but of course the high idle was inoperable.  The suspension filled up, and I was able to get a glimpse of everything underneath.  the airbags didn't look too bad, and from a distance I didn't see any obviously bad air hoses.  The tires should be decent enough for the ride home.  2014 on the drives, and 2017 on the steer.  The PO just had some used tires put on it.  It's got Alcoa's front and rear.  Once the air was up, I released the parking brake, and tried to pull the bus forward.  It took a couple of decent applications of the service brakes, but they broke loose.  I pulled forward a couple of feet, figured out how to work the solenoid reverse, and backed back up the couple of feet.  That was the extent of my test drive. 

I know I have a lot of work ahead of me to get it home I'll need to get the wheels off and inspect brakes and bearings and seals.  I'll need to adjust the valves and injectors, straighten out some janky plumbing on the fuel lines, and change fluids and filters.  I'm not too worried about any of that.  The electrical system needs some attention.  For the time being I'm thinking I'll throw a 24v 10si one wire alternator on it, and disconnect everything but lights, guages, and engine controls.  There was a delco 12v alternator added as part of the original refit I assume, so that should be an easy swap out for the short term at least. The wiring doesn't intimidate me, but I'm expecting it to take some time sorting through it all.  The only thing I'm a little concerned about is the windshields.  The glass is good on both of them, but the mounting rubber is almost non existent at this point.  I've seen videos of guys doing back glasses in pick ups etc., but I've never done it myself.  I'm not so sure this is the one I want to learn on.  Does anyone know if the rubbers are still available? Would this be a Luke item?  I've never spoken with the guy, but I've heard his name thrown around quite a bit. 

Anyway, I suppose that's enough for tonight.  I'll work on trying to get a couple of pics of the bus posted tommorow.  Oh, and don't worry about hurting my feelings about the condition of the bus.  I know its going to be a lot of hours and a lot of dollars.  I'm in the bus for less than the asking price of pretty much any running Detroit, or a beater car for that matter.  I explained it to my wife that we just bought a really big horse.  The purchase price is the cheap part. 

Brett

[RJ]

Brett -

Welcome to the madness! Busnutitus is incurable, but it can be controlled. . .

A '64 MC-5A weighs about the same as my old '78 MC-5C, so 85psi all around will probably be real close to the recommended pressures once you run the coach across a CAT scale and compare the axle weights to the Michelin load/inflation tables. Don't make an extended run without doing so.

Build the air pressure up to 120psi, push down on the parking brake knob, THEN do a full service brake application, holding it for approximately 5 seconds before releasing. DD3s can be persnickety releasing if you don't do it right.

If the 8V71 in your coach has spin on fuel filters, grab a couple of NAPA Gold 3118s and 3120s for your trip, and a NAPA Gold 1970 oil filter if you're going to change the oil before commencing your journey.

Detroit Power Guard 40, Mobil Delvac 1240, Chevron Delo 100 and Shell Rotella T are the most popular and correct oils for that 8V71. These are normally not on the shelf at your local parts palace, they usually have to be ordered from a local distributor. Summit Racing often has the Delvac 1240 on sale, but it usually sells out quickly and becomes back-ordered, so I usually order in advance so I have it in stock personally. (Link below for Mobil dealer locator - several in TN) DON'T use multi-weight, but you probably already know that, since you've futzed around with 53s.

Luke may have new windshield rubber, give him a call at 1-888-262-2434. Chris Newton may also have some, he's only on Facebook's MCI pages, tho.

Two 8D batteries were stock, I had good success with two Group 31s for chassis use, but I lived in a milder climate at the time.

The 12vdc Delco alternator is probably for the house batteries. Your coach came from the factory with a 24vdc Delco DN50 alternator, belt-driven on the driver's side of the engine, accessible thru the street-side engine access door, plus the access panel in the interior rear of the coach (hopefully not covered by the converter!) Suggest a set of matched belts if the current ones look sketchy. If an automatic, the transmission dipstick is also located inside this door, usually found underneath the alternator and slightly forward. Check oil level warm with engine idling and transmission in N.

If the coach has been converted from the manual 4-spd to an automatic, you'll get approximately 7mpg, possibly 9 if it's still a stickshift. Since most MCIs of that vintage did not have a fuel gauge, use the "500 mile" rule to avoid running the tank dry - it's no fun trying to reprime a Detroit alongside the highway at Oh Dark Thirty in the rain! The stock tank on your model is 144g, figure 125 usable.

FWIW & HTH. . . 

RJ

Mobil Delvac 1240 Locator:
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/industrial/lubricants-distributors/search/?longitude1=-142.72935986250002&longitude2=-54.39928173750002&latitude1=21.003122153018108&latitude2=54.597931885104245&radius=50&zoom=4

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Luke has windshield rubber. 

[TNBrett]

Yes, Luke has the windshield rubbers.  They're on their way. 

RJ- Thanks for the tip on the inflation tables.  I hadn't thought about that yet.  I'm pretty familiar with the challenges of finding straight 40w oil.  I have an oil distributor that I use at work who has been able to get it for me in the past.  I'm also covered on filters too.  I have Donaldson/ Baldwin dealer that I buy all of my filters through.  They usually have even the oddest stuff in stock, and beat NAPA on price.  This engine currently still has a canister style oil filter.  I'll go ahead and grab the spin on adapter and change it over.  I was planning on going with the 8d's, and making up some 4/0 battery cables.  The original generator is still there, but I'm pretty sure the regulator is toast. 

Now, let's see if I can make pictures work.

[chessie4905]

Biggest tip I can give you is to drive home 55 to 60 MAX and non interstate secondary roads are fine. Less chance of major engine and mechanical issues cropping up instead interstate at 70 to 75.

[TNBrett]

I guess that worked, let's try a few more.

[TNBrett]

Biggest tip I can give you is to drive home 55 to 60 MAX and non interstate secondary roads are fine. Less chance of major engine and mechanical issues cropping up instead interstate at 70 to 75.

I'll probably end up on the interstate at 60 or so.  Around here, non interstate often means no shoulder.  I'm not too worried about getting passed, or other drivers getting mad.  Seems almost everyone on the road stays mad anyway. 

Does anyone have any experience doing the windshields?  Any advice to pass along on that?

[silversport]

For me buy tow insurance. We have Coach Net, haven't used it in a long time but when you do it's gold, just don't except fast service.

[RJ]

I have Donaldson/ Baldwin dealer that I buy all of my filters through. 

Brett -

Baldwin/Donaldson work just as well for me, I'm just closer to a NAPA store, and buy mine when they have their semi-annual (spring/fall) sale. NAPA Golds are made by WIX, fyi.

I'm pretty familiar with the challenges of finding straight 40w oil.  I have an oil distributor that I use at work who has been able to get it for me in the past.

Personal anecdote: When I first got my 5C, it had a fresh oil change using Chevron Delo 100, and two cases (six gallons) in a bay. Consumption was around 850-900 miles on a gallon. Next oil change, at the recommendation of Clifford and some other busnuts, I switched to Mobil Delvac 1240 (same oil as Detroit's Power Guard 40, just private labeled.) Surprisingly, my oil consumption dropped - I was now going 1700-1800 miles on a gallon. So I'm still using Delvac, now in the 8V92t stuffed in the tail of my Prevost, where I'm getting 2500-3000 miles on a gallon, since this coach had a fresh out-of-frame overhaul when I bought it. Of course, YMMV. . .

Oh, the photos posted fine.

FWIW & HTH. . . 

RJ

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Google bus windshield replacement and see what comes up.  I saw one not too long ago that a young couple did on a 4106?. They replaced both windshields, and even though they broke one due to rushing and had to order another, saved $700 over what they had been quoted to have it done.

[MC8Mike]

With new windshield rubbers it is pretty easy, I roped mine in on the MC8. I think that is the method glass installers use, at least used to. It is a method where you put the rubber seal on the windshield and then wrap a rope around the seal where it fits over the pinch weld. You can start the bottom of the seal just by setting the windshield in the frame. You will need help, someone hold the glass in place outside and a second person pulls the rope inside the bus. As you pull the rope it pulls the inside of the seal along with the rope. Patting or slapping the glass is necessary as you go to seat the rubber and glass in place as you work around the seal.

[Jim Blackwood]

That's the way I did it on my DL3 but with both of us on the outside. A lot of slapping the glass was involved, shoving sideways with a suction cup, etc. It took a couple days for the last edge to settle back down. Also there is a wicking type of rtv sealant made for windshields now that seems to work pretty good. Apply that after it all has had plenty of time to heat cycle and settle in.

Jim

[Glennman]

Very nice, classic bus.

[TNBrett]

So I did a bit of looking, and everything I’ve seen looks like you start with the rubber on the frame first if it’s a lock strip style. It actually looks like it may be the easier style.

Google bus windshield replacement and see what comes up.  I saw one not too long ago that a young couple did on a 4106?. They replaced both windshields, and even though they broke one due to rushing and had to order another, saved $700 over what they had been quoted to have it done.

I saw this one too. I feel like it’s something I should be able to handle. I checked with several glass people, and the only one that was willing quoted me at $1500 labor only, not responsible for broken glass.

RJ- I’ll keep the Delvac 1240 in mind. I’ve already got some Rotella T1 on hand.

I’ve also looked at the Coach-net towing insurance briefly. I need to call them at some point and get that set up. With other stuff being already scheduled, it’s going to be a couple of weeks before I can make it back to the bus and do any work, and I’ve got at least 2 or 3 long weekends of work before she’s ready for a trip home. It’ll all happen soon enough though.

Any way thanks for all the tips and kind words I’ll do my best to keep the board updated.

[freds]

I’ve also looked at the Coach-net towing insurance briefly. I need to call them at some point and get that set up. With other stuff being already scheduled, it’s going to be a couple of weeks before I can make it back to the bus and do any work, and I’ve got at least 2 or 3 long weekends of work before she’s ready for a trip home. It’ll all happen soon enough though.

Any way thanks for all the tips and kind words I’ll do my best to keep the board updated.

Their web site doesn't really handle older buses that don't have VIN numbers so you have to call them...