Are you supporting your holding tanks??

[DrivingMissLazy]

I used 3/4 inch PVC thru a trap to prevent any bugs getting in.

Before I put the bigger line in I forgot to turn off the water for a while and the 1/2 inch drain was just not big enough for the water pressure from the hose I was filling with. Those plastic tanks really do swell up. LOL

If I was doing it again I would probably use 1 inch PVC.

Richard

[Oregonconversion]

The green strip is the sensor on the side of the anks that allows me to tell almost to the gallon how much water is in each tank.  It is on the outside only, so it can never get clogged up.

Can you direct me to where I can get that green sensor strip? Will it work with any white/clear plastic tank? How does it work?

[DebDav]

Try:

www.garnetinstruments.com

[oldmansax]

I have 110 fresh, 55 black and 55 grey not supported. The fresh tank will bulge about 2 inches on the long side when full. I haven't noticed the other bulging at all.

TOM

[JohnEd]

Scanzel,

I have done this and it worked beautifully.  I installed a line from my hot water line back to the fresh tank.  It was Siamese to all the water lines I wanted to "heat" to prevent their freezing.  I simply ran the hot water thru the system till it ran cold and repeated as needed to keep my fresh at 36 degrees.  I used thermostats to turn the system on and off and I sensed temps at various points on the water lines also.  I used adjustable mechanical thermostats that didn't need power but switched it nicely.  This can be used to protect the fresh tank and keep it at whatever temp you wish.  This system was used mainly when I camped in Pa at a park with a pole.  My water heater ran more when using propane but was not bad.  I don't know what would be cheaper.

I would have my fresh tank contacting the other tanks and have it all well insulated.  Maybe even have the water pump embedded in the foam around the fresh.  My HW tank was inside the coach and that resolved a lot of issues.  The beauty is that you have everything you need except some thermos and relays and water valves that are electric controlled.

Also install parallel lines from your HW fixtures that goes back to FW so when you run the water to get it warm you don't waste water.

HTH,

John

[gumpy]

I vented mine with a faucet aerator tip with just the double screens in it (took the plastic pieces out of the insides of it).  Attached that to an existing fitting on the upper edge of the tank.  Vents freely in both directions and keeps the bugs out.

That's one of the best ideas I've read in a long time.

I vented my tanks by running PEX out the floor of the bay, and stuffing the bottom end of it with stainless steel Chore Boy scrubbie to keep the bugs out. But I really like the idea of putting a fitting in the bay floor, and screwing the aerator in from the bottom side. What clean installation that would make.

BTW, I like having my vent under the bay floor rather than inside the bay because the vent doubles as a full indicator. When water starts running out the vents, I know the tanks are full.

craig

[buswarrior]

Didn't someone just hang them from the roof of the bay? 

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[kyle4501]

Didn't someone just hang them from the roof of the bay? 

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Yes, but it will never work that way.     
You can't use Aluminum because that won't work either.     

One of the sheep here did it that way & I'm sure the suspense of waiting for it to drop or corrode is diminishing his ability to enjoy his coach. . . . NOT!