I am considering getting a 1-inch air impact wrench so I can change my shocks and check my bearings, all of which involve wheel removal and replacement for a bus.  I have a manual torque multiplier, but with age and laziness, I dread using that tool.  I have a pancake compressor, but it doesn't have the required 17 CFM of airflow.  My bus air seems quite reasonable.  From sitting for a month with zero air pressure, we can be aired up and ready to roll in about six minutes.  I’m thinking of an air impact wrench, since they are less expensive than the new fancy battery models. My question: would it be feasible to use the bus air to power it?  If so, where would a guy tap the bus air to do so? Post by: Sebulba

Post by: Utahclaimjumper

I have a really good ¾-inch impact wrench that hits 650 ft-lbs. and is easier to handle.  I run it off my onboard bus air pressure.

Post by: Sebulba

Hmmm, tell me more.  What brand?  Where did you get it and such?

Post by: Dave5Cs

I got my Earthquake air impact wrench from Harbor Freight here. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=3%2F4%20earthquake%20impact

Post by: Sebulba

Yeah, thinking about that one (Earthquake Impact – above link).  Any experience using it on Budd wheels would be great to hear.

Post by: luvrbus

I have a 3/4" AIRCAT impact wrench; it does the job.  I also have a one-inch IR (Ingersoll Rand).  Those are heavy, and your bus air won't run one except in short bursts.  You will need a 1/2" air hose to feed it.

Post by: Iceni John

I thought long and hard about buying a 1" air impact for my bus's wheels, but chose not to do so mainly because of air supply limitations. Instead, I recently bought Harbor Freight's 3/4" Hercules battery impact wrench. So far at least, it has really impressed me. Last week, I took off the deep nuts for one of my rear suspension's 1" U-bolts (they're tightened to far more ft lbs. than wheels' lug nuts), and it hammered off the corroded nuts with absolutely no problem. It seems well-made, and it's more than adequate for my very occasional needs.   Yes, it's more money than an air impact, but it works well, so it's a keeper for me.   So far, so good!

Post by: belfert

Skip the air.  You'll use up the air in a pancake compressor in seconds with a big impact wrench.  Get a battery-operated 1" impact instead.  Milwaukee makes them now, and they work very well.  Personally, I have an Ingersoll Rand battery 1" impact that works great.  It uses dual batteries, and the kit I bought came with four batteries.  Zoro had a really good price, plus I had a 20% coupon, so it cost me around $1,100 before tax.  I only bought the IR because the Milwaukee version hadn't been released yet.  I would buy Milwaukee today.  Yes, I have removed lug nuts on my bus with the battery impact.  A compressor and hoses large enough to run a 1" impact will cost as much, or more, than a battery impact from Milwaukee.

I have a pancake compressor, and I have a couple of larger compressors.  I tried to use my pancake compressor with an air-operated bottle jack to lift my bus.  The tank was empty in under a second, and the compressor could not produce enough air to raise the jack.  I had to get another compressor as I was going to burn up the pancake compressor.  I didn't realize an air-operated jack needs that much air.

Post by: peterbylt

I have had the Dewalt DCF899 for several years. It was expensive, but it is excellent.  It has a max torque of 700 ft-lbs. and 1200 ft-lbs. of max breakaway torque.

I was skeptical when I bought it, high torque, cordless impacts being new on the market at that time.  I have not been disappointed. I have yet to find a nut or bolt it won’t remove; it takes the lug and bud nuts off the MCI bus without any issue.

I see there is a newer version, DCF900, with 1030 ft-lbs. of max fastening torque and 1400 ft-lbs. of max breakaway torque, but have no experience with it.  I chose the ½-inch drive version to make it more versatile and easier to use around the shop.  I almost bought the ¾-inch drive version, but I have not regretted the ½ drive.  A friend of mine has the Harbor Freight Ultra Torque Impact and says it blows away my Dewalt at a much lower price, but I have no personal experience with it.

Post by: thomasinnv

I have a 1" Harbor Freight impact I have had for years.  I run it off the rear suspension tank in the engine bay. It will keep up well enough to replace and remove the tires and run the air jack. That's all I need.

Post by: luvrbus

I have a couple of friends who carry the Vevor 1-inch air impact from Amazon.  It costs around a 100 bucks, and they work well.  It is not as heavy as the Harbor Freight one-inch (40 ft-lbs.) model.  To get the full advantage of any air impact, you have to meet the air supply and demand; a ¼” inch supply hose won't cut it.  But with a ¼” inch supply line, you don't break any studs. 

The cheaper guns require 10 to 15 CFM @ 90+ psi for full advantage.  The $1,000-plus Ingersoll Rand guns get by on 5 CFM at 90 lbs.  I am not much on Harbor Freight stuff, but Lvmci and Van gave me a Harbor Freight 1/2" drive cordless impact for my birthday, and it does a good job.  I use it all the time to twist off 1/2" rusted bolts.  If they don't come loose, it will twist those off.  That is ok with me as long as it is not a bolt I have to drill and tap.   

Post by: Sebulba

I already have a Rigid 1/2” drive battery impact wrench that I really like, but it won't handle wheel lug nuts.  That's what I'm really trying to get a handle on.  Something not too expensive that can handle those on the occasions I need it. I'm thinking the Harbor Freight 1/2" won't handle that? Or will it?

Post by: luvrbus

Use what you have.  Just buy a cheap 1/2” drive, 2 or 3 to 1 torque multiplier with a handle.  I have a Proto 2 to 1 that I have used for 50 years. I use it a lot instead of going to a bigger gun when using my 1/2" drive Ingersoll Rand gun.  A knock-off brand shouldn't cost much.  I’ve seen those before with a 1/2” input and 3/4” output drive.  All my lug sockets are 1” drive FWIW. 

Post by: Sebulba

That's an idea.  Sure, a lot less expensive.

Post by: Dave5Cs

My go-to is an 18-volt Milwaukee battery ½” drive that my son gave me years ago, with no battery. He said he didn't know if it worked; a friend had given it to him. I finally bought a battery for it, and it works great.

Post by: luvrbus

A Chinese outfit owns Milwaukee.  I see Milwaukee tools in Lowe's with Made in China or " Made in Mexico.   The same company makes the Ryobi tools in Home Depot.  They may make the Harbor Freight guns, too.  They own the Hoover vacuum cleaner plant in El Paso.  I looked at a Milwaukee tool set for my daughter, which had 'China' written all over it.       

Post by: belfert

Which cordless tools are made in the USA?  Easily 95% of cordless tools are imports, and 95% is probably on the low side.  I like to buy stuff made in the USA, when possible, but I know it's not really possible with cordless tools.

Post by: bobofthenorth

If you can try a 1/2" Milwaukee, you may be surprised. I have the high-torque DeWalt 1/2”, which is a beast, but the Milwaukee is better.  Milwaukee also has a 3/4” drive, which must literally be dangerous. We had to be careful not to stretch 5/8” Grade 8 bolts with a 1/2" Milwaukee. 

The cordless units are going to be a lot easier to use - way more expensive but way more convenient too. I've got some pretty good air tools in my shop, but I can't remember the last time I dragged any of them out.  The cordless stuff is just too handy and easy to use.

Post by: rancher

I have both 3/4” and 1” air impacts and a ½” hose to run them, but any more I grab the Milwaukee heavy ½” or ¾” 18-volt cordless to change all my Semi or rear tractor tires. I hate those heavy air impacts and heavy ½” hoses anymore.

Post by: sledhead

I have the M18 3/4" nut buster, and if you use a 12-amp battery in it, it will take off anything.  Most times, I use an 8-amp battery, and with that, I can remove all eight tires and reinstall them easily with that battery, with power left over.  But they are not cheap.

Post by: Sebulba

Is that this wrench?

https://www.northerntool.com/products/milwaukee-m18-fuel-cordless-high-torque-impact-wrench-with-one-key-and-friction-ring-tool-only-3-4in-drive-1500-ft-lbs-torque-model-2864-20-63588

Post by: luvrbus

I was in my local industrial supply house yesterday replacing a 1-7/8” Wright combo wrench that walked off.  They sell only the commercial-grade models from Milwaukee, Makita, and DeWalt.  If you want sticker shock with a cordless impact wrench, these tools will deliver.  American-made tools like Proto and Wright are crazy expensive; one wrench costs $270.  Those grades from the three brands were bumping up against $1000.  The average person doesn’t need that.  

I have never bought Chinese-made sockets, but they are looking better.  A set of deep 3/4” drive 12-point sockets by Proto.  I use 12-point because most Detroit Diesels have the 12-point on the heads and main bearing.  You are just taking the wheels off.  An 800-ft-lb gun should be more than adequate. 

If I bought a high-torque gun today, out of the three brands, it would be a Makita made in America.

Post by: luvrbus

A local truck tire shop here has all its trucks and shop equipped with the Mikita TWUIOGZ 40 V 1” drive impact made just for changing truck tires.  Check those bad boys out.  You won't like the price, he told me.  Around $1500 each.  If you could find them on eBay used, that would be the way to go.  They are neat.   I saw a guy with one in each hand carrying those to the truck.  It puts out an amazing 2320 ft-lbs. of torque, weighs 25 lbs., and runs off a battery.