Using Original Windows

[Jcparmley]

Hello All

I am planing on using the original MCI Windows on my budget build.  My question is how to mount the window to the new wall thickness?  I plan on adding insulation so my finished wall will be thicker than the original bus wall.  I can't just use longer screws in the trim ring because the window won't latch.  If anyone has any pics of their installations that would be very helpful.  Thanks

[buswarrior]

Do you mean the big windows down the sides?

I'd be working around what's there, I can't imagine fooling with all that hardware and structure.

Work out how to bring the thickened walls to the edge of the window and decide on how to deal with the transition. Framed out, a bit of recess, etc

Heavy insulated curtains figure prominently in many busnut builds to help with the glass heat/cold.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

Yes, the side windows.

Do you mean the big windows down the sides?

I'd be working around what's there, I can't imagine fooling with all that hardware and structure.

Work out how to bring the thickened walls to the edge of the window and decide on how to deal with the transition. Framed out, a bit of recess, etc

Heavy insulated curtains figure prominently in many busnut builds to help with the glass heat/cold.

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[lvmci]

Hi JCP, Gary Bennett built these for me, leaving the emergency releases functional, pretty wood, insulated cellular drapes with no external strings or controls, no banging around of the drapes, lvmci...

[Jcparmley]

So it looks like your walls are original.  Did you us any insulation?  I was planing on building out my wall.  So my question is how to mount the original windows in a thicker wall.  The wood in yours looks awesome.  I was planing on using the blinds like yours.  I hope they will keep it cooler.

Hi JCP, Gary Bennett built these for me, leaving the emergency releases functional, pretty wood, insulated cellular drapes with no external strings or controls, no banging around of the drapes, lvmci...

[buswarrior]

The walls get thickened below the window, with a sill as thick as you want to make it.

So the windows stay in their stock location, recessed into the added space of insulation.

How are you planning to stay warm on the road, if you're taking out all the wall bits and filling with insulation?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[lvmci]

The stock windows on my 102C3, are 1 & 2 pane, only the rubber gasket change, i too will finish off bottom and rear with finished plywood and more insulation, in the southwest more heat comes from the roof, the C3 came from the factory with a higher roof, I will use the I-beams for the luggage rack, to drop the ceiling, hide ductwork, wiring and add more insulation, the insulated cellular drapes have made all the difference on direct sunlight heat in the interior, lvmci...

[Jim Blackwood]

I like those.

Jim

[chessie4905]

Instead of finishing off with plywood, consider some of the flooring like Pergo; one that won't be effected by any moisture that eventually ends up around windows, either from leaks, condensation, or leaving open in damp or rainy weather.

[Jim Blackwood]

Teak. Just sayin...

Jim

[Jcparmley]

I'm rebooting this old thread of mine rather than starting a new one.  I'm wondering what you all think about the cost of replacement Peninsula windows.  Is it worth the extra cost to use Peninsula windows or stick with the stock two pane that I already have?

[lvmci]

JC, I only have two windows in the middle removed and covered with sheet aluminium,  but the next forward windows have the emergency bar and mechanisms removed and screwed down in place on curb side for the countertop, on street side the appliance  barn over the propane heater, TV pipe and folding tv tables, chairs. These windows can still be opened up with some doing to replace glass or gaskets. The removed windows are filled with closed cell foam with aluminum foil on one side 1" thick, I replaced the drivers side small window with a Penisula  brand sliding window, which I'm happy with, lvmci...

[lvmci]

Here's Gary riveting and stretching the aluminium over the 2 windows taken out...after fixing mechanical issues I'm going to replace the door window with a sliding screen window and full bedroom window with screen slide from Peninsula...

[lostagain]

I would keep the original double pane windows. They are better than the Peninsula, which in my opinion are overrated, and very expensive. The only disadvantage is that they are not sliders. But you can open them and prop them up while parked, and figure out some kind of bug screen for them.

[ktmossman]

On my J4500, I discovered that ALL of the side windows mount the same way (flip up), regardless of whether or not they are Emergency Exits. The only difference is the latch hardware.  Unfortunately, the emergency exit windows are the center three on each side, which is where I'm removing the windows.  So, I just moved emergency exit windows (which have the bar/latch hardware) to other window spaces front/rear and all I have to do is move the frame hardware that the latches "catch."  That will still allow me to have emergency exit windows front and rear.  I am also contemplating magnetically attached screen material, so we can open the windows whenever we want.

On the thickness question, I am building out the wall thickness a little (standard wall thickness is about 3 inches), but the J doesn't have trim rings.  I'm just planning a sill that will cover the exposed edges.