well, I bought a bus

[TNBrett]

I've been working on rounding up as much stuff as I can to make a trip out to work on the bus.  I've also been going through manuals to try and familiarize myself as best as I can.  I've got a couple of quick questions though. 

First off can someone confirm that the MC-5 not 5A battery trays will fit a modern 8D?  The only manual I've been able to find is for a 5A and it lists the batteries as 8D's, but the measurements I took seem a little tight compared to what's published for the size. 

Second, the bus currently has N60 injectors in it.  The Detroit manual I have calls for 1.460 for those injectors, with a note for 1.470 for "city coach engines".  Does anybody know what that is about? I assume setting them at 1.460 is correct. 

Thanks

[luvrbus]

The 1.470 will give you less smoke it advances the timing but you loose a few HP

[TNBrett]

The 1.470 will give you less smoke it advances the timing but you loose a few HP

I assumed the change was probably for reducing smoke, maybe especially at idle.  But, Wouldn't a taller injector height actually be retarding the timing?

[luvrbus]

Transit engines used .85 height liners ports yours is probably has .95 height ports setting change to get the air to fuel ratio close DD never mastered that

[64MCI]

I've got a MC-5 (not 5A) and 8Ds fit fine for me.

Jed

[bigred]

Yes, Luke has the windshield rubbers.  They're on their way. 

RJ- Thanks for the tip on the inflation tables.  I hadn't thought about that yet.  I'm pretty familiar with the challenges of finding straight 40w oil.  I have an oil distributor that I use at work who has been able to get it for me in the past.  I'm also covered on filters too.  I have Donaldson/ Baldwin dealer that I buy all of my filters through.  They usually have even the oddest stuff in stock, and beat NAPA on price.  This engine currently still has a canister style oil filter.  I'll go ahead and grab the spin on adapter and change it over.  I was planning on going with the 8d's, and making up some 4/0 battery cables.  The original generator is still there, but I'm pretty sure the regulator is toast. 

Now, let's see if I can make pictures work.If you have an O'RILYS store close to you they can get Shell 40w oil in a couple of days.

[TNBrett]

So my wife and I went out to work on the bus last weekend.  We had a pretty productive trip.  We replaced the rubber windshield channels.  That only took a couple of hours, and went pretty well.  but we did end up cracking the drivers side up at the top inside corner.  Removal took about 2 seconds.  The windshields were really just sitting there.  We attached suction cups on the inside and outside.  I literally just picked each windshield up out of the opening, and handed it down to my wife.  we had a baker scaffold set up in front of the bus, and it was really nice having a solid platform to work from.  It definitely worked best having one person on the inside, and one outside.  I'll try and include a pic of the windshield rubber before.  I didn't take many pics of our work, it was pretty much a 2 day marathon in the sun and heat. 

I adjusted the valves and injectors (they weren't very far from where they needed to be).  I changed the engine oil and filter( I ended up staying with the canister for now, as the spin on adapter wouldn't have come in in time).  I took a sample of fuel from the tank drain, and it looked really good.  I changed both fuel filters, and removed some "extra" pieces someone had added.  I'm sure they thought they were helping things with an outboard motor primer bulb, and a small facet fuel pump, all plumbed with air hose fittings instead of hose barbs.  I also drained all of the coolant, and refilled it with the Napa Pink precharged coolant, along with a new spin on coolant filter (no additive). 

I made up some new 4/0 battery cables for the forward battery compartment, and installed the two new 8D batteries.  I was thoroughly disappointed when I tried to start it.  the starter would bafrely turn the engine over.  I checked voltage at the starter, and it looked good.  I decided to remove the starter and check it out I cleaned it up, polished the commutator (it was pretty dull), and lubed up the bushings.  I was once again disappointed with the performance.  Long ago, the original AC compressor had been removed, and a flat floor installed in that space, so I decided to try relocating the batteries back there closer to the starter instead of relying on the long run of cable from the battery disconnect.  Finally the starter spun the engine over the way it should, and it came alive.  The idle was smooth immediately.  When we had it started before, it took quite a bit of cranking, and a little shot of ether to get it to light, and the idle was rather inconsistent.  I'm blaming 20 year old fuel filters, and plenty of air intrusion from those "extra" parts for that now.  I think for the trip home the batteries will ride back there, and I will decide on a permanent location later on. There's a side of me that thinks it just makes more sense for them to be back there, but part of me likes the fancy battery drawers and the disconnect switch. 

I pulled the belts and wiring off of the 50DN, and installed a 45amp 24v Delco 10si one wire alternator in place of the 12v alternator that had been installed for the house battery.  I also made up a cable to run from the new alternator to the rear distribution panel where the 50DN used to feed to.  I now have a bus that starts easily, and charges. 

Somewhere along the line someone installed a signalstat 900 turn signal switch and fed it off of the 12v system, Which is currently not in use.  I fed 24 v to the flasher, and changed all the bulbs back to 24v (1203 iirc) and low and behold I have turn signals.  After figuring out that the brake lights don't work with the parking brake set, it turns out I had brake lights too.  I put the correct 24v bulbs in there too as they had 1156's in them.  Wouldn't you know it, even the headlights came on, high beams too.  I don't have running lights yet, but I'm not planning on driving back in the dark at all, so they can wait. 

After checking air pressure in the tires, I decided to drive around in the storage yard a bit.  After getting a little more comfortable with it, I even decided to drive a couple of miles to the gas station and throw some fuel in her.  She took 120 gallons on top of the 5 I had thrown in from a fuel can.  Obviously, they had let her get pretty empty.  Driving her for the first time was pretty intense.  By the time I got back to the yard, shifting was getting easier, and I even managed to down shift a couple of times. 

So, she's currently running and driving, but not ready for a trip home yet.  The rear brakes are covered in oil.  I've already received a package from Luke with new brake linings front and rear, as well as new seals, gaskets and dust caps.  After talking with him, I'm planning on going with grease front and rear.  I also found a couple of small air leaks.  First, the low air warning switch up front was leaking (got a new one).  Second, I could hear air escaping from the relay valve with the parking brake applied.  Luke suggested it was likely a leaking parking diaphragm, so I got 2 of those as well. 

So, that kind of brings you guys up to speed on things.  One question I have is if anyone knows the size socket I need for the spindle nuts front and rear?  Also, the more I think about it, I think I want to have complete rebuild kits for the DD3's and the front actuators on hand for my next trip out to work on it.  I'm hoping to do the brakes and bearings at all 4 corners, and check the oil in the trans, differential, and drop box.  At that point I think she'll be ready to come home. 

[windtrader]

Great progress. sounds like it all well quite well overall, especially getting the motor fired and the short trip showed the basics are functional.

[luvrbus]

You are dealing with a bus with a drop be sure the drop box is full,the differential and drop box are 1 unit when filling,drop boxes will fail with too little grease and they are getting hard to find,me I would buy 5 gals and change it 

[TNBrett]

You are dealing with a bus with a drop be sure the drop box is full,the differential and drop box are 1 unit when filling,drop boxes will fail with too little grease and they are getting hard to find,me I would buy 5 gals and change it

Yeah, I thought about it after I posted my last comment, and there's no reason not to go ahead and change the transmission and diff lubes.  I assume that 85w140 gear oil for the diff and drop box, and 50w HD transmission oil for the trans would be appropriate.  does anyone happen to have an idea of their capacities?

[luvrbus]

You need  5 gal for the drop box ,and will have about 2 or 3 qts left over,the transmission takes 10qts (2.5 gals)

[TNBrett]

You need  5 gal for the drop box ,and will have about 2 or 3 qts left over,the transmission takes 10qts (2.5 gals)

Thanks