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« Last post by Dave5Cs on October 08, 2025, 12:56:12 PM »
Just an Idea but did you have it in Neutral and then when aired up put 100 lbs of pressure on the service brake pedal to release them and then go forward or reverse?
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Bought 5 gas shutoffs for $25 off the web, they look fine. Good idea Dave.
I ended up going with the plan for routing the line under the belly. Easier, and if a line does leak, safer. Means some crawling under but once it's done it's done. I put the description of routing the line over the axles and into the engine bay on my projects thread, no point in repeating it here, but it was something of a chore for one person and I was glad for the plastic coating on the tubing. It mitigated what could have been a lot of damage. So now I'm waiting on an industrial grade holesaw to cut the vent and exhaust holes for the furnace before I can hook up that end and then go back and install support clamps. More is better. Once I get back up to the water heater I can look at whether I will need more line, probably for the fridge since it is on the other side. That line can be routed through the bay with no problems and that leaves the flex line or hose to the genny, since it's installed to be rolled out for maintenance. I will need probably about 4 ft of slack in that line. 3 at the least I expect though I might get by with less by attaching the flex line overhead at the travel mid point. Probably still needs to be at least a 3 ft line or more, what do you guys think of using this stainless corrugated stuff in a bus? Would you do it or not?
Jim
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« Last post by djanspach on October 08, 2025, 06:56:11 AM »
Hi - I'm new to bus's but pretty good with old cars. We have a newly acquired 1964 GM PD4106 (2095) that has been running and driving great. The previous owner upgraded to the "spring brakes" and added a Haldex air parking brake and Anti Compounding Valve. Everything was working just fine. Last weekend we came back from a trip and parked in the driveway. Since we hadn't tried the air wipers yet we decided to give them a run. The wipers need some help but worked. This weekend we fired up the bus and went to leave but the brakes were stuck and literally the brake lights are stuck on. Everything sounds like it is working. The parking brake push pull makes air release noises. The brake pedal also feels and makes air release noise as well but the brakes and brake lights never change. The bus will not move. You can feel it surge when shifting into gear but will not move even with a little throttle. Air pressure is normal for our bus and gauge (100-105psi). I even used the shop compressor to air up the system a bit to 120psi just thinking maybe we had a leak somewhere. I couldn't hear a leak even with the engine and external compressor turned off. I'm at the point where I think some debris from the wiper motors(?) may have gotten into the system. I know I happened across a brake system plumbing diagram somewhere around (service manual I'm assuming). I haven't really been under the rear of the bus and have been cribbing and using proper support when under the front of the bus. Any advice on what to check? I thought if I started at the anti compounding valve and see if I can determine where the air pressure is and where it isn't. I can see that the brake light switch is in one of the lines near the anti compounding valve. Thanks! Don Previous owner spring brake video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3I2f9UhURD8
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« Last post by luvrbus on October 07, 2025, 03:32:47 PM »
Yes I have the manuals. Jim Sheppard gave me his.
The voith has to to be in neutral to start, so there is a circuit through the shift pad that completes the circuit.
My number 830 five seven zero 7729
David
It starts in natural ok it just goes to do not shift,I can do the limp mode in 2nd gear by removing the 2 spacers on the transmission at 3 and 9 o'clock but it will start in 2nd with no air build up it's not a good idea, all I need are electrical schematics,thanks David I will call you in a day or so
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Yes I have the manuals. Jim Sheppard gave me his.
The voith has to to be in neutral to start, so there is a circuit through the shift pad that completes the circuit.
My number 830 five seven zero 7729
David
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« Last post by luvrbus on October 07, 2025, 12:25:58 PM »
Most of the time when you take up all the slack in air brake system the clunk goes away you will probably be ok.Now I have a question do you have a manual for the Voith transmission ? I am helping a guy that has a Houston Metro.It is nice bus he had a slide installed ,roof raise with 15 caps and windshields he is getting a little down, the conversion process has started yet,I need to get it to move he is thinking about just to forget about it and sell it for what ever he can out of it.I think he told me he paid Bob 35k for the HWH slide install.What I need to know does Voith have a way to interlock with a add on of any type ,I know the slide has something lock out in the Voith,It is machinal 6v92 with a electronic controlled Voith P.S I was going to call but lost your number
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« Last post by peterbylt on October 07, 2025, 09:05:35 AM »
We live in Florida.
We have both a Pioneer 12K Mini Split in the front and a Coleman 15K rooftop in the rear.
We love the Mini Split, works fantastic, very quiet sips electricity, we are able to run it off our Solar System for a lot of the day. Keeps the entire bus cool, using a box fan in the middle of the bus blowing into the back, the problem arises when it gets into the mid 90’s then the mini split can’t keep up.
That’s why we bought the Coleman Mach 15 Roof top unit, this AC Kicks A$$, will cool the bus off in minutes, holds it’s own into the upper 90’s and beyond, But there is nothing efficient about this unit, it’s loud and consumes lots of electricity, it will never run off the solar system, Generator or shore power only.
Between the two we are very happy with them, usually run them both to cool the bus off then shut down the Coleman and maintain with the Mini Split.
These units only keep the bus cool when stationary, once we are rolling down the interstate all the cool goes out the window (literally).
Not sure why, I know there are plenty of air leaks, or possibly the hot air moving by the bus?
I have kept the Original OTR AC, it does not currently work, it's on the list of things to fix.
Peter
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I’m on my way to the Eagle rally in Ruidoso NM and drove 400 miles yesterday. I tried a few hard stops and never had the clunk sound in the front end.
I am cautious to believe I fixed my problem with new brakes and parts.
Plan to arrive Ruidoso Wednesday to meet the group.
David
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« Last post by luvrbus on October 07, 2025, 05:58:15 AM »
I looked at a 2026 Prevost yesterday a friend was transporting to FL from Oregon ,4 roof airs and 1 basement unit , you couldn't hear the 4 roof air running,the basement unit was loud outside . I have no idea where people get the money to buy a 3 million dollar RV ,the sticker price was over 3 million for something with laminate covered cabinets
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« Last post by silversport on October 06, 2025, 10:32:02 PM »
Three an a half years ago I installed a Pioneer 9000 BTU 120V in our bedroom. Our GM-4106 is fully sprayed foam with double bubble wrap inserts for all windows covers. Since this is in the bedroom I knew we wouldn't be running it on the road. I installed the condenser in the bay on a turntable (best air flow a @ triple digits). First surprise was how much we enjoyed the heat pump, that is used more than the AC. Being so quiet we can have it on when we sleep. There is not high amp start up, pulls 6-7 amps, w
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Re: Mini split(s) - How many BTUs for a bus?
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e can run it on a 20 amp circuit. We enjoyed it so much, the rattle box will be replace soon (new unit in garage patiently waiting).
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